polyflex is just for minor fglazing, pin-holes, etc.
get yourself some fibertech and then some glazing in a smaller tube to save some$$
Just get these two
thanks!! just ordered.. now i gotta play the waiting game.....
Don't forgte to rough it up, that fibertech is good stuff and will give you the build you need
That looks like a good solution, I'll be interested in your results! I just didn't want to see you use a standard body filler, it would likely crack pretty quick.
I'd def go with Nexson's suggestion.
As for the tips I'd say don't think your going to get the fibertech perfect with the spreader. Err on the side of too much. Then get a rough grit out and sand down past a bit where you want the finished layer. Then when you're applying the glaze coat, thats where you get a bit more detailed with the spreader. I'd use and old credit card or something with a rounded corner and use that to apply the finish glaze in the corner where the lens meets the wall. Again, slap in a bunch of glaze then use the rounded corner to squeegee it in and remove excess as you go around. This will make for a uniform bevel and you wont have to go too much sanding after that. Maybe a 150 then 300 and your good.
I've seen your light mods so i know you have the patience for this. You'll be fine.
it's about time to update this thread..
for prepping the housings, i used a tip i found on hidplanet.com--i used oven cleaner to de-chrome the housings. i also shot some of it in the gap so i could make sure to get a good bond to the plastic below. that was the easy part-- it took all of about 5 min to do both housings, and then i washed them out to prevent the oven cleaner from eating anything else. and to prevent the water from messing with the bond, i let them air dry.
after that, the project sat in my basement because it got too cold to work outside..
recently, though, it has been warm enough to work on stuff outside, so over the last couple weekends, i got it to this point-- i used the fibertech to fill in the gaps at first, and then followed up with glaze-it to fill in the small divots.
i had tried sanding the filler while it was at the "cottage cheese" stage, but i got to it while it was still tacky, so it just gunked-up my sand paper.. instead, i just let it cure for about 5min, and then dremeled the hard stuff. it was a little more work, but i think the results are a little better.
this is as far as i am right now-- about 2 saturdays worth of filling, and dremeling:
now that the overall shape is good, the rest will need to be hand sanded. i'm hoping i can get all the sanding done today, and at least get a coat of primer on it.
---------- Post added at 04:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:06 PM ----------
i did some light sanding with some 220 grit paper, and had to see how it looked-- most of the housing felt pretty smooth..
so i hit them with some primer:
i kinda figured it would need more sanding, though this helps prove it..
the inside is def. going to need some work, and after the primer, i can see some defects in way i rounded the edge over..
i'm gonna let the primer dry for the rest of the day, so the sanding will continue on the next warm day..
and after the prime was dry to the touch, i had to test-fit the lenses:
Your getting there. I would have hand sanded the whole time. Use your finger to spread the glaze. Sand it down with 220, then fill in the voids.
Knock it down with 80, then 120-220, primer and repeat
def use some 80 and go to town. Also if the 80 is easily deformed by a point load, put a backer of some sort to disperse the the sanding area pressure. This will make sure high spots are hit first and isolated until the "High" spots are now even with the "low" spots. Otherwise, you'll feel the area over with your fingures and think "awesome, perfectly smooth", shoot some primer and you got pits and waves everywhere... they'll just be smooth pits and waves.
the "point load" effect:
-image you have have a 12"x 12" frame with spandex streched over it and somebody presses there finger into it from the other side. You can clearly see where their pushing beacuse the force from their finger effects only the immediate area.
-now lets say the same frame is cover by something stiffer like cardboard. Someone could press on a rendom area (whther it be center or off center) and you'd have a hard time figuring out where they're pressing because the impression is diffused over the entire surface.
Thats why you use sanding blocks for large flat areas. For complex/non flat areas, you still need somthing to diffuse the sanding pressure and comform slightly to the overall contours of the surface while ignoring or rather bridging the low spots. In this case your probaly just using your fingers because of the tight area. That means you're putting a whole lot of force on very a very small surface area, and if the sand paper is thin then your tranferring the depressions of your fingures into the surface.
That means you sand, prime, find low spots, use filler, sand, prime, find low spots, use filler... forever.
Make sure to use some sort of backing that will absord the "point pressure" of you fingers and diffuse it over a larger area. You can stop worring about the backer when you've gotten the surface uniformly smooth, albeit prime with scratches, but thats fine. This is when you start to use the glazing putting (which is way less dense then filler). This is why its now okay to hand sand without a backer... becuase a this point you should be sanding with 250/300 lightly, which isn't course enought to get through and make a dent in the filler, only the glazing. Leaving you with a now scratch free and uniformly smooth surface.
...(end of rambling)
Good luck with the rest.