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Thread: New Project: Console Woofer Box (big brother of Amplified PC)

  1. #1
    Constant Bitrate 4ofakind's Avatar
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    New Project: Console Woofer Box (big brother of Amplified PC)

    Ok guys / gals I am slowly but surely moving along with my PC project. One thing I am sure we have all run into is dwindling resources; mainly money. So I am forced to try and make my own subwoofer enclosure. The box itself is not a problem. Fiberglassing it to look how I want it to is the issue. I have never used or done any fiberglass work before. So here goes:

    First a question. I live in Vegas and it is starting to warm up. How does outside temperatures affect working with resin and bondo? Right now it is around 70 degress. If I wait untill summer where temps reach 100 degress or more how much more trouble will I have trying to do this?


    What I will be attempting is to put two of these 8" subs:


    In an ported enclosure that resembles this:


    I want to build a basic rectangular box to house the subs, then cut the top, front, and rear end off the console above and fiberglass them onto the box. This should be fun

    Mal
    Vehicle: [100%] 1995 C 1500 ECLB
    Gear: [90%]
    Build: [80%] PC & Chassis, Worklog

  2. #2
    Variable Bitrate djvillar's Avatar
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    Heat won't adversely effect your project, cold will. Now, it does make sense, in my opinion, to cut off the top front back back of the console... Your left with nothing and just build up from it.

  3. #3
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    thekl0wn's Avatar
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    Your best bets on modding that style of center console is one of three things...

    A.) Just use the top "cover" section, and build up from your enclosure. If you cut away part of the bottom of the 95-99 consoles, they get weak & wobbly. There should be some heat-pressed tabs on the inside that you can access from the inside by flipping the console over, and drilling/cutting, and then nicely split the bottom of your OEM console, and have a clean starting point.

    B.) Leave the console intact, and build to the front of it. I'll see if I can dig up some of the old threads on FSC which showed this.

    C.) Start new, possibly reusing a few of the parts.

    -Lee
    Play with it, 'til it's broke.

  4. #4
    Constant Bitrate BADMOPAR's Avatar
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    Just for your inspiration

    I don't wanna be a product of my environment.
    I want my environment to be product of me.

  5. #5
    Constant Bitrate 4ofakind's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replies guys especially you BADMOPAR.

    Just to be clear, I will make a ported enclosure out of .75" MDF. I will then fiberglass parts of my original console onto the MDF to disguise the fact I put a woofer box there. I will use the top lid piece, the front section that houses the coin/cup holder, and the rear wrap around. I was going to try and keep the rear fold out cup holders but that with the front section and the required volume for the woofers will make the console tooo long. Thereby ruining the illusion.

    I have another question: Will making the box downfiring cause problems with the volume? Also I have to keep the woofer and the port on the same plain right? The port can't be firing forward while the woofer is firing down?

    Mal

    ---------- Post added at 12:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:09 AM ----------

    Preliminary internal measurements:

    8" Woofer

    9" W
    11" H
    10" D

    Port Dimensions:

    .5" H
    4.5" W
    4.5" L
    38Hz Fb

    Mal
    Vehicle: [100%] 1995 C 1500 ECLB
    Gear: [90%]
    Build: [80%] PC & Chassis, Worklog

  6. #6
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    thekl0wn's Avatar
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    Why such a high tuning frequency? What are the goals of the setup? SPL or SQ?

    And no, the port and driver don't have to be on the same plane.
    Play with it, 'til it's broke.

  7. #7
    Constant Bitrate 4ofakind's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thekl0wn View Post
    Why such a high tuning frequency? What are the goals of the setup? SPL or SQ?

    And no, the port and driver don't have to be on the same plane.
    Thanks about the port. The goal is SQ. Not planning to compete, but I prefer clean and clear over loud and proud. I did not know 38Hz was "high".
    40Hz is the manufacturer's recommended frequecy for a box w/ .5 ft3 of space.

    PPI SQ8 User's Manual

    I will be buying the MDF and FG materials this weekend.

    Mal
    Last edited by 4ofakind; 02-16-2011 at 06:19 PM.
    Vehicle: [100%] 1995 C 1500 ECLB
    Gear: [90%]
    Build: [80%] PC & Chassis, Worklog

  8. #8
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    thekl0wn's Avatar
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    Not sure what your F/G experience is, but picking up from Home Depot, Lowes, and/or Menards for resin is horrible... They don't have decent resin, and they don't rotate stock often. I typically deal with US Composites out of Florida, and have nothing but good things to say about them, their products, and their service. http://www.uscomposites.com/ If you do go local for buying resin/mat, then I'd go through an auto paint store... Fresher stock.

    The tuning is a personal preference... But to me, 38hz is still high. Granted, with an 8", you're not going to have massive lows anyway, but getting that 3hz "bump" down a bit is nice.
    Play with it, 'til it's broke.

  9. #9
    Constant Bitrate 4ofakind's Avatar
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    I did a drawing in Visio of my MDF box design. This design uses a Fb of 25Hz. I am not sure of the port dimensions. Either way (25Hz or 40Hz) the port seems kinda small to keep the length in check. Im thinking I should just go sealed. The space I am using may just be too small for ported.

    Mal
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    Last edited by 4ofakind; 02-17-2011 at 08:38 PM.
    Vehicle: [100%] 1995 C 1500 ECLB
    Gear: [90%]
    Build: [80%] PC & Chassis, Worklog

  10. #10
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    for sq, i would recommend sealed. porting is possible, but as you have found, it is very tough to get clean sq out of small-boxed subs..

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