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Thread: How much would you expect to pay for iPad install

  1. #31
    Maximum Bitrate buurin's Avatar
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    I've thought about this more and I suppose included the dock connector isn't really the challenge, it may even make fabrication easier. The connector itself is a pretty solid stand. So this will eliminate the need for bluetooth.

    I took some photos tonight so you guys can see what I am working with.

    What I want to do:
    - Mount the dock into the dash a about 1 inch deeper than in the photos.
    - I want the mount to swivel a couple degrees (pictured)
    - Power will come from the cig lighter and go to the back of the dock. No visible wires.
    - Audio will go to head unit via aux in. No visible wires.
    - I want to stabilize the tablet both vertically and horizontally. Its pretty secure horizontally but I dont want it to fall out if I hit a pothole.

    I have a decent idea of how the dock would mount into the din slot. It pretty much would just sit there, just needs to be secured down.

    As for the horizontal and vertical stabilization.. No pretty ideas for horizontal but for vertical I was thinking some kind of latch (perhaps spring loaded) attached to the top of the double din opening.

    I have no idea how I'd swivel. I'd like to find something that already swivels and just attach to that. It'd have to be very low profile since I dont want the dock to sit mich higher than in the photos.
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  2. #32
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    ok, and where is the headunit going to go? below the xoom? so you would have a 1-din slot available for mounting/wiring the xoom?

  3. #33
    Maximum Bitrate buurin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundman98 View Post
    ok, and where is the headunit going to go? below the xoom? so you would have a 1-din slot available for mounting/wiring the xoom?
    Glove box.. No room in the dash. Remote volume control either wired or wireless or I'll just control the volume via the Xoom, preferably with a bluetooth remote that I am still in search of.
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  4. #34
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    heres what i am thinking of:
    this is not to scale, and was only done in mspaint, so just for the ideas:



    using acrylic-- build a mount for it, that is based around the dock. the only thing i am a little shaky on is how to attach the acrylic piece and the mount.. this partially depends on how large the circuit boards are in the dock-- if there isn't much, then screws, and epoxy would work. you would probably need to build up the area around it for a good epoxy joint..

    in this case, more expensive Lexan is going to be a little better because it will flex, but has a higher breaking point then normal plexiglass.

    but for a rough proof-of-concept, plexiglass is much cheaper, and can work great for this. but because it is more brittle, i wouldn;t recommend it for constant use in a high-flex piece


    for building things with acrylic, the best way is with a acrylic bender. it is possible to use a lighter, or a heat gun, but they are a major pain to get the acrylic to a consistent temp..

    there are many how-to's on making one for really cheap(usually using the heating element out of a hair dryer). this video is from a company that makes a not-so-cheap solution to that, but the concept for making your own follows the similar priciples:





    the next part is the pivot-- i though about this for most of the day--for reliability, metal is going to be the best for taking the weight, with a minimal amount of flexing.
    i considered another piece of acrylic, or carbon fiber, and while Cf has a very high strength-to-weight ratio, it would flex a lot, and in a bumpy car, it would require other support..

    here's what i am thinking of for the pivot:


    though, after putting it together, i still see a major flex point..

    so the design of the pivoting mount needs some work, but i am confident of the acrylic mounting solution for the xoom itself..

  5. #35
    Maximum Bitrate buurin's Avatar
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    Hey Soundman, thanks a lot for the input and the diagrams - it really helped me visualize how simple this could be. I expect to leave the actual fabrication to a machine shop (well thats assuming its within budget.. I've been looking at eMachineShop.com)

    I like the cradle portion and expect to use a design very similar. I've been playing with Google Sketchup to try and model it, but there is a learning curve there since I've never worked with CAD especially in 3D.

    As for the rotation mechanism, I do see room for flex there... If you actually saw my car it'd probably be easier to visualize but I'll try to explain what I want to do.

    Imagine the dock secured to the floor of the din opening, protruding only about .5"-1" (to allow for the ports to be exposed & for tablet rotation).

    At this point there are two problems:
    - Not secured vertically, meaning it could bounce up and out of the dock
    - No rotation

    Initially I thought I'd esentially attach a tab to the top of the din opening and would hold the tablet down however this would not allow for my rotation requirement. So I've concluded the vertical stabalization should attach to the dock and not the din.

    As for rotation, I'd like to mount the dock to a round plate that smoothly spins with added friction such that it will stay in place but still be movable. I don't know how to achieve smooth motion + friction, some kind of screw?

    I'll scan in some paper drawings since my CAD ability is so slow (my drawing ability isnt much better though).

    Thanks again, I'm excited to see this come together.
    Last edited by buurin; 03-09-2011 at 03:13 PM.
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  6. #36
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    acrylic bending is something you can do yourself-- so there isn't even a need for a machine shop.. cutting/sanding acrylic is kinda messy, but the actual bending isn't so bad.. once you have everything marked out, it would take longer to setup the heat strip then it would be to actually bend everything..

    i came up with a different idea for the pivoting mount. instead of reinventing the wheel, just use something like this:
    http://www.mountcenter.com/Peerless-.../pp740-kit.htm



    this actually makes everything a little easier-- because a mount like this would connect to the acrylic instead of the dock, you no longer need to worry about the dock supporting the weight of the entire thing, and because the mount would be located in the middle, it would reduce the visible flex of the entire setup. i don't think there is a easy way to reduce ALL the flex in the mount, but a mounting solution like this would greatly reduce it..


  7. #37
    Maximum Bitrate buurin's Avatar
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    I put together a sketch in Google Sketchup

    (Full screen should allow you to read the text)


    I welcome any/all feedback.

    Issues:
    • Not sure how the mount will attach to the dock.. In the video its attached to the top of the dock, I was considering somehow attaching to the flat bottom of the dock
    • Rotating plate.. Still not sure how to make it rotate somewhat smoothly and have enough friction to stay in place.
    • Rotating plate... need to make sure it doesn't fall out of the mounting plate. Only need about 20 degrees left/right.
    Last edited by buurin; 03-10-2011 at 02:13 AM.
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  8. #38
    Constant Bitrate
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    You don't want to load it from the side? Isn't the ipad connector on the bottom of it, so if it's as you've drawn it in sketchup the connector would be covered by the rail?

    ---------- Post added at 11:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:12 PM ----------

    Btw I have one of those V4e's too! Fantastic warning system for 20! lol

    Oh right, just read back the posts and you're not installing an ipad after all lol.

    In which case your design is ok, but personally I'd have a full frame running around the sides and front.
    Last edited by TheGuv; 03-10-2011 at 05:17 PM.

  9. #39
    Maximum Bitrate buurin's Avatar
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    For the sake of conversation I titled the thread 'iPad' but its in fact a Motorola Xoom which has very similar dimensions.

    The reason I chose to have the frame stop 1 inch from the top is because the power button is on the back of the device... Now that you mention it though, I think I will extend it to the top of the device and cut out a hole in the back to expose the power button. That will probably look better with a full frame. Thanks for the feedback.

    Power Button: http://www.everythingandroid.org/wp-...xoom-power.png

    Still looking for ideas about rotation & support (so the rotating disk doesn't fall out of the mounting plate)

    I had no idea what a v4e was but I looked it up and I think you're confusing my Creative IR receiver for the v4e.
    IR Receiver: http://www.elektrik-sheep.com/creati...e-receiver.jpg
    Last edited by buurin; 03-10-2011 at 07:07 PM.
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    Next Step: TIVO for Radio

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  10. #40
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    for a super cheap solution, cut up some plastic cutting boards from the dollar store-- most are high friction enough that you should be able to lock the screen certain positions, and if you use a thread-locked bolt with a couple of metal washers, you can always adjust the amount of tension..

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