just be really careful with this-- plexiglass scratches really easy-- even while cleaning-- so months later you'll end up with swirl marks all over it...(maybe you can try to clearcoat the plexiglass?)Quote:
Originally Posted by settra
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just be really careful with this-- plexiglass scratches really easy-- even while cleaning-- so months later you'll end up with swirl marks all over it...(maybe you can try to clearcoat the plexiglass?)Quote:
Originally Posted by settra
clear coat? something like vernish? i was thinking i might use some other glass or something, so that it wont scratch so easy
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Also, if your substrate is going to be made of fiberglass, the finished surface of that substrate must be perfectly smooth fiberglass/resin... not body filler or glazing. That is how you would complete a box or facia but not substrate because your going to have to spray adhesive on it and lay the foam layer. A lot of spray adhesives will not react well if its applied to filler, the filler will break apart ruining all the time put in.
That means you either have to make the structure like normal with filler and all, then make a negative (master) mold, then make a duplicate structure. The run off will have a perfect surface, as it was made from a mold, and it will have a pure resin finish to applied adhesive to... not to mention it will be extremely light (as there is no excess material)
The other simpler option would be to finish the structure then coat the whole thing with resin and sand down smooth again. I would think this would be the simplest but HEAVY.
i think i will go with the second one:>i am not sure if i put foam or something above the fiberglass anyway,:>
Foam as an outer layer is used to give a soft touch to the surface. My Honda has that under the faux leather. It's kind of nice, but seems to be very difficult to replicate factory quality (I could be wrong).
-Zack
via Droid Charge
I had to use foam under my console cover. I just had to redo it because I needed a larger opening.
You glue the foam first, but not over the edges. If you have 90degree turns/sharp edges, it will look better if you can stitch the leather:
Edit: wrong video.
At least most factory looking installs have that.
After the foam is glued (there are special glues for that at Joann's Marshall's etc. I believe, some glues tend to "flatten" the foam, because they penetrate the foam and glue one edge to the other), stretch the leather and glue it around the edges (I used regular super glue for that when I run out of my fabric glue and it's okay, just don't let it mess it too much, I used gel).
yeee... but i dont think i will manage to make it look professional if i use foam:> and it anyway wont be a big surface since the top will be leather.i think blac mat will fit better with blac leather:>
you would use a very thin layer of foam-- something with a uncompressed thickness of around 1/4-1/16"(1/4 for arm rests, something near 1/16th for dashes). enough that when you press on the material, it gives a little. it also helps cover up some of the minor imperfections, and gives a smoother, or flowy-er appearance to the dash..
OK, so i am bringing this up after a long time, but i only now have begun building the dash, and i am hoping that soon i will make the origfinal post with photos and the final result ;) but before that. i am thinking of going with fiberglass after all. but does anybody have any idea about how to paint it (or what filler to add after the fiberglass) so that the dash want be TOO shiny? you know . to be more liek dash-like and not so Bumper-like :D
Filler... EVERCOAT!!! and Evercoat spot putty. Ship it if need be. I had to contact a sales person from the evercoat site to find a distributor who works primarily with autobody shop and boat yards. They were used to people coming in or industrial sized portions of this stuff. I went in looking for a half gallon and a tube of putty. BEST stuff ever.
For paint use trim black, its nice and flat. If you want another color and don't want it uber glossy, spray a dry coat. This means do one wet coat,wait for it to tack up. Then do a dry shot (spray from far away allowing the paint particles to dry a bit in the air before landing on the tacky paint). This will give a texture coat that will catch some light but not look like glass.