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Thread: how to make glass fiber contruction on PP plastic?

  1. #1
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    Question how to make glass fiber contruction on PP plastic?

    i want to modify my existent steering wheel shield but im not sure how to do it...
    my original shield looks like this:



    what i want to do is extend the height of the front so i can fit a 2x20 LCD display in it. something like this:



    i know that my original shield is made of PP plastic but how do i make a glass fiber construction that will stick to the plastic so it looks orginal?

    my idea was to make a construction of tree og then pull some stretch sheet over and then start with polyester and glass fiber... but the concern is if it will stick to the PP plastic or do i need to do something else`?

    some say i need to make a whole new shield to make it look good, because the polyester will not stick on the PP plastic, but that would take a lot of time because there is some connection points that connects the top shield with the buttom shield. like you see here:




    all tips and help is welcome!

  2. #2
    Maximum Bitrate david69leonard's Avatar
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    If you are admit about using fiberglass, I would use a low grit sandpaper 40grit,or less, making the plastic extremely rough, then I would coat it in resin to give a solid surface to build on, personally, I think ABS plastic would work better in this case

  3. #3
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    well the reason i want to use fiberglass is because i have worked with it one time before and i know where to get the mats...
    i dont know where to get ABS plastic and how to work with it...

  4. #4
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    Most suppliers of stereo building components or wholesalers of plexiglass & plastic can supply you with sheets of ABS in different thicknesses, textured on one side and smooth on the other at reasonable prices.
    See - http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=265-940
    You can get tools, glues/fillers, instructions and tutorials at - http://www.urethanesupply.com/step3b.php
    There are members of this forum such as rdholtz with a build showing plastic welding, see - http://www.mp3car.com/worklogs/11447...-pg-1-a-2.html
    You can Build a heater strip to bend acrylic for 30 bucks or less! see- http://www.mp3car.com/fabrication/11...s-or-less.html

    If your going to be removing it when selling the car, you may want to buy a new part or used part for the fabrication.

  5. #5
    MySQL Error soundman98's Avatar
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    to get a better idea of parts availability, where are you located?


    it really would be best to use a similar plastic for the build, as fiberglass and plastic have different expansion rates in different temperatures, so it could be fine during the summer, but crack during the winter.

    i believe that you should be able to use many of the same processes that you used for fiberglass, there would just be some different materials and products that you would need to use.

  6. #6
    Variable Bitrate djvillar's Avatar
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    http://www.mp3car.com/fabrication/14...-work-log.html

    Here's some stuff I've done. Look at the very first project where I attach mdf as support for the gauges. When I attached the mdf, I drilled holes through the board and the plastic. I spread some jbweld on both surfaces (after severely scoreing both with 40grit) then squeezed them together till the epoxy poured out both sides. after that is cured it acts not only as a surface to surface adhesive but also as an epoxy rivet. After the job was done, I accidentally dropped it from shoulder height to the ground. No cracks at all. It been over a year now,.. flawless.

    In your case, I would score the whole piece with 40, then where the clothe meets the cover, drill some holes. Place your structure. When you stretch the base clothe (fleece, cotton, whatever...) attached it to the cover where the holes are drilled with some jbweld or expoxo 88.

    Also, drill two parallel rows of holes. Spread the jb/epoxo over the first set, but when you place the cloth, only cover the first set of holes (epoxy rivet). After that dries you can hit the clothe with your resin and start to lay down your mat. The second set of holes is for the fb resin to soak through both sides, the cover and the clothe (resin rivet).

    It'll be there for life.

    Good Luck!!!
    Last edited by djvillar; 08-18-2011 at 09:25 PM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheMadTinker View Post
    Most suppliers of stereo building components or wholesalers of plexiglass & plastic can supply you with sheets of ABS in different thicknesses, textured on one side and smooth on the other at reasonable prices.
    See - http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=265-940
    You can get tools, glues/fillers, instructions and tutorials at - http://www.urethanesupply.com/step3b.php
    There are members of this forum such as rdholtz with a build showing plastic welding, see - http://www.mp3car.com/worklogs/11447...-pg-1-a-2.html
    You can Build a heater strip to bend acrylic for 30 bucks or less! see- http://www.mp3car.com/fabrication/11...s-or-less.html

    If your going to be removing it when selling the car, you may want to buy a new part or used part for the fabrication.
    i would prefer a local dealer for faster delivery time, but think i found one.. atleast for the ABS plastic... how thick should the i ABS be?
    i will try to take a look at the toturial an hope i can find the tools somewhere.. i got a heatgun already, but i guess a heater strip would fit better for this?


    to get a better idea of parts availability, where are you located?


    it really would be best to use a similar plastic for the build, as fiberglass and plastic have different expansion rates in different temperatures, so it could be fine during the summer, but crack during the winter.

    i believe that you should be able to use many of the same processes that you used for fiberglass, there would just be some different materials and products that you would need to use.
    I am located in Denmark. i have been doing some google searching and think i found a supplier i could use.

    but why use ABS plastic? since im going to work with plastic anyway, why not use PP plastic like the shield is made from? maybe that was easier to weld together?

    http://www.mp3car.com/fabrication/14...-work-log.html

    Here's some stuff I've done. Look at the very first project where I attach mdf as support for the gauges. When I attached the mdf, I drilled holes through the board and the plastic. I spread some jbweld on both surfaces (after severely scoreing both with 40grit) then squeezed them together till the epoxy poured out both sides. after that is cured it acts not only as a surface to surface adhesive but also as an epoxy rivet. After the job was done, I accidentally dropped it from shoulder height to the ground. No cracks at all. It been over a year now,.. flawless.

    In your case, I would score the whole piece with 40, then where the clothe meets the cover, drill some holes. Place your structure. When you stretch the base clothe (fleece, cotton, whatever...) attached it to the cover where the holes are drilled with some jbweld or expoxo 88.

    Also, drill two parallel rows of holes. Spread the jb/epoxo over the first set, but when you place the cloth, only cover the first set of holes (epoxy rivet). After that dries you can hit the clothe with your resin and start to lay down your mat. The second set of holes is for the fb resin to soak through both sides, the cover and the clothe (resin rivet).

    It'll be there for life.

    Good Luck!!!
    thx i will take a close look on your projects

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