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Thread: First Dash Bezel...

  1. #11
    Variable Bitrate djvillar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Willn View Post
    Should I use a piece of wood on the one side of the screen that has the gap?Attachment 65620Attachment 65621Attachment 65622
    IMO no. The filler you put in should have evenly extended the topology of the existing bezel to the surface of the monitor you're putting in there. I will put together a couple of 3D images to illustrate what you should do. Tomorrow.

  2. #12
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    OK, I had another idea. What I did was cover the glass touch screen in foil as per the thread by turbocad and think that everything fits well expect the one side that is curved. At this point, I should be able to just build up that side with some more filler and sand it down, right? Attaching a pic to illustrate...


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  3. #13
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    Also, since the Dynatron 660 is no longer available and I have already used it on this, what would be a good alternative that would be hard for a good base?

  4. #14
    Variable Bitrate djvillar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Willn View Post
    What I did was cover the glass touch screen in foil as per the thread by turbocad and think that everything fits well expect the one side that is curved...
    Turbocad did not cover the glass in foil. The glass was now where near the bezel during fabrication. 'Cad covered the factory bezel with foil so he could pop out the mold he made.

    Another oversight, 'Cad taped the inside edge of the monitor bezel to keep it clean and straight, and he built on top of it. The glass attaches to the flat (made for the glass) bezel it cam with.

    Now you don't have a bezel that came with the glass, so this is why you have to create a FLAT "picture frame" aka bezel that the glass will later be secured to the back of.

    That picture frame gets attached to the back of the factory plastic bezel you're trying to add material to.

    once the two pieces are joined, via CA glue, epoxy, whatever,.. you then use the Dynatron or filler of your choosing to create a smooth transition between the inside edge of the "picture frame" and the factory plastic opening.

    Being that you are adding material to the factory plastic itself, you don't need to put foil on anything. If anything you might tape of the inside edge of the "picture frame" you make in order to keep the edge nice on sharp.

    Maybe these images will further clarify.

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    factory bezel

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    factory bez backside

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    monitor frame / "pic frame" - make this out of plexi, acrylic, wood, aluminum, whatever

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    attach frame to backside of factory bezel

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    attach frame to backside of factory bezel - front view

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    fill the difference with "filler" in order to create a smooth transition between the factory material and the "pic frame" edge.

    Not sure how else to describe the process.
    Last edited by djvillar; 03-23-2012 at 10:45 AM.

  5. #15
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    Ok, I started with the right idea, but looks like I used a flimsy bezel, #1, and then molded it to the dash peice instead of the hard frame. Do you think I can fix what I have by just making the wooden frame for the glass and attaching that to what I have now, or am I going to have to completely start over?

  6. #16
    Variable Bitrate djvillar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Willn View Post
    ... or am I going to have to completely start over?
    Yes. Its sounds like a pain in the @$$ but believe me, when you start off with a good foundation it will make everything else a lot easier.

    Trying to fill that gap in a way that looks good will take a lot longer then starting over with a proper frame.

    Good luck.

  7. #17
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    If you can get a spare bezel or two, definitely start over. I did a similar thing with my bezel and after ruining it (it became too flimsy after too much trimming down & it warped severely from the solvents I was using). Lilliput doesn't make spare bezels, so I was SOL. I've now found a way to create one from scratch (ABS sheets) and that's the stage of my fabrication I am currently stuck on.

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