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Thread: Almost giving up on it. Need suggestions

  1. #1
    Maximum Bitrate carabuser's Avatar
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    Almost giving up on it. Need suggestions

    I've been doing this for past few days. It started long time ago, but major filling/sanding didn't come until few days ago. So far this is the best I can make out of it but it's far away from being what it needs to be.





    I need advices on how to smooth it out. Too many curves are showing and I'm just out of ideas what to do.

    Btw, the reason I painted it is to see those curves better. It's hard to see what's not smooth when there is no paint.
    Any help is appreciated. C'mon mp3car, you can do it

    EDIT: To give an idea what's under the paint - some bondo body filler and some fiberglass on top of it. It's a mess, I agree
    Current Status: For Sale

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  2. #2
    Maximum Bitrate fantomas's Avatar
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    you put fiberglass over the body filler?
    rebuilding carpc... kinda..

  3. #3
    Maximum Bitrate carabuser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fantomas
    you put fiberglass over the body filler?
    yep. no fiberglass cloth tho...
    Current Status: For Sale

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    - Indash Motorized 7" VGA TS
    - DeLorme GPS (sold)
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  4. #4
    Raw Wave rando's Avatar
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    glass first, then filler. Next sand. next Sand. next Sand. Then sand. Then sand some more. Next sand. Repeat previous 6 steps until smooth.

    Now Primer. Light sand. Paint. Light sand. Paint/Sand a few more times until you've got the smoothness you want.

    Don't give up, you'll get it there. It takes a long time. Worst case, you can sand it all down and throw another coat of filler on top and then start sanding again.

  5. #5
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    nonono! fiberglass is darn near impossible to sand compared to a solid bodyfiller!

    you are so close, carabuser, dont give up now! good call on teh paint, we call it a "guidecoat." use it! sand all that paint off. every last bit! the dark spots that appear are pits called pinholes, im sure you are already too well aware of how terrible they are!

    grab yourself a good lightweight bodyfiller, not just bondo brand bondo, but some good stuff. my favorite is rage gold, it pinholes less.

    fill up the pinholes as best you can. in fact, go over teh whole thing again! try to work the bondo into every nook.

    next grab some 80 grit paper, maybe even 60. if you start with 120 or higher, you end up smoothing out the bumps instead of removing them!

    once you get it flat, then its time to take the scratches out! if its *almost* flat, dont think to yourself "oh, the 120 grit will finish it up" - it wont! make sure the EXACT shape you want has been achieved with your 60 or 80 grit. 120 and 240 grit are just to remove the scratches.

    once youve sanded to 120 or maybe 240, get a heavy filler primer or thick automotive primer. get it on there really good, whole coat! then grab your 240 or maybe even 120, and sand that smooth. the idea is to take off all teh orangepeel that you get from the primer. once its flat, take the scratches off with 240, 320, 400 grit. maybe 600 grit, depending on how tenacious a grip your paint has.

    then you can paint it with a matching paint. perfect!

    but the easiest way to come out with a crappy part is to start sanding rough with 120 or 240 grit, and smooth out the bumps rather than eliminate them. plus, youd be sanding for weeks! I get tired of that real quick!

    good luck, and lets see it when its really done!

  6. #6
    Maximum Bitrate carabuser's Avatar
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    woohoo, good thing I finally decided to post. Thanks a lot for the info guys!
    Well, after reading your suggestions it seems like I don't have half of the stuff I need and whatever I do have is wrong anyway! lol
    Yea, I'm gonna go get some better stuff probably tomorrow. Seems like I'll have to take off all that nasty fiberglass I used. Well, it's good to know things
    Current Status: For Sale

    Specs
    - 1.5Ghz Toshiba Laptop (available - no screen)
    - Indash Motorized 7" VGA TS
    - DeLorme GPS (sold)
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    - Pioneer HU (sold)

  7. #7
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    I reccommend using a powersander as well. you can get a cheap one at home depot for $40. It will only last about three years, but itll be good till then, and its an easy way to ensure your sanding is TOTALLY flat. some sanding will still ahve to be by hand, and id definitely do the scratch removal steps by hand still, but it makes it way easier to get an uber flat surface when you are trying to just flatten it.

    with the power sander, the scratches will be samller too, so id definitley drop to 60 grit if you decide to use power

  8. #8
    Maximum Bitrate carabuser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WhiteRabbit
    I reccommend using a powersander as well. you can get a cheap one at home depot for $40. It will only last about three years, but itll be good till then, and its an easy way to ensure your sanding is TOTALLY flat. some sanding will still ahve to be by hand, and id definitely do the scratch removal steps by hand still, but it makes it way easier to get an uber flat surface when you are trying to just flatten it.

    with the power sander, the scratches will be samller too, so id definitley drop to 60 grit if you decide to use power
    it's ironic you bring it up... I went to home depot last night to get myself a Dremel tool and found it VERY hard to use with my project.
    Current Status: For Sale

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  9. #9
    Clover Grayscale's Avatar
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    wtf you cant use a dremel for that! get a sanding block so you can sand evenly and flat...that or a power sander
    CarPC install is starting to come along again...

  10. #10
    Maximum Bitrate carabuser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grayscale
    wtf you cant use a dremel for that! get a sanding block so you can sand evenly and flat...that or a power sander
    it usually sands too deep. so if there is a bump it becomes a hole. of course, most likely it's my skills, not the tool
    Current Status: For Sale

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    - 1.5Ghz Toshiba Laptop (available - no screen)
    - Indash Motorized 7" VGA TS
    - DeLorme GPS (sold)
    - Power Inverter (sold)
    - Pioneer HU (sold)

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