Ok, so we've got a summary of the pieces. What's my plan of attack?
1. Find a controller and inverter for the LCD. Buy it.
2. Come up with the mechanism for the in-dash housing. The LCD is currently 7.25" wide (portrait) and the din opening is 6.75". I'll have to make a bigger slot. I have 10"-10.25" of depth from the front of the new din housing and the LCD is 10.5". But I need a little sticking out! However, building a housing for the LCD is clearly going to be very difficult. The LCD is in a fairly sturdy and not too ugly case already so perhaps I don't worry about it and just use it as it. I still need to attach it to the sliding/rotating mechanism.
3. Use the hud-mounting frame that came with the new DIN solution as a template for the mounting for the LCD sliding mechanism.
3.5. Maybe - mount the USB array microphone in the raised din socket. Just realized the LCD may get in between me and the mic.
3.6. Maybe - mount the slot loader DVD drive above/below the LCD slot.
4. Use sheet metal or plexiglass to build a 'neat' front for the din unit with just a slot for the LCD. LCD will probably be poking out a bit to be grabbble. Otherwise, cut out thumb/finger recesses so it can be pulled out.
5. Do all the wiring. Not sure how the LCD/potential USB hub will be powered from yet.
6. See if my tank circuit works. The high power requirements of this m/b have me worried the 7.2Ah battery just won't cut it - too much voltage drop as it provides the (up to) 16A that is needed for the full 200W the dc-dc psu can provide.
7. Cut holes and stuff in the metal case and mount the m/b inside using the hacked up mounting plate from the cheap case that came with my cheap Soyo m/b. Mount the m/b right at the front of the case because the front/back space under my passenger seat is very limited - 10" is just about bearable if there are back seat passengers but that leaves no room for the VGA plugs etc to stick outside the case. So I'll have them 2" inside by moving the m/b 2" towards the front of the case (i.e. as far as it will go). Possibly use plexiglass to make a nice little enclosure for the cable ends so the m/b isn't "exposed" in any way. Probably won't get round to that though!
8. Route the cables. Build a 15 or 20A switched power circuit powering the tank circuit + dc-dc psu.
9. Hook up the PS/2 trackball. Route the cable through a removed coin holder slot in the center console.
10. At some point - experiment with the PS/2 track pad I'll also be getting ad nd see which I prefer .
11. When I have some spare time, write some speech control software for AutoTouch and any other things I want to control (used to do this for a job so I have a head start here ).
Will post some pictures of my bits shortly and hopefully things will make a lot more sense then. The long arm of this install is clearly the LCD controller and the mounting mechanism.