Thread: Sticky on how to paint?

all depends of finish you want though doesnt it

what u after?

always spray light coats from 12-18 inches way. 5-10 minutes between coats depending on the paint you're using. After the first 2-3 coats, you should still be able to see the primer. After 5-6 coats, it should give you a nice even matte finish similar to stock finish. If it's still too glossy, spray a couple of light coats from 24 inches away and let the paint fall onto the surface.

for a high gloss finish, spray about 5 coats of clear then wetsand with 1000 grit, 1500 and 2000 grit sand paper in that order. Becareful not to sand away too much. It will make a smooth slightly hazy finish. Take some rubbing compound (3m fine cut) and rub until glossy. Pay attention to the rag you're using to polish. You'll know that you've sanded through the clear when your rag starts picking up the color of the spray paint.
Top it off with some wax.

Assuming you're painting with automotive grade paint (PPG, Dupont, HOK, etc.), air powered spray tools (HVLP, conventional, etc.), and a decent painting environment, just remember to:

1) scuff the substrate, whether it be plastic, fiberglass, metal, etc. scuff with either a scotchbrite or 400-600 grit.

2) if you're starting with a bare plastic substrate, clean it to all heck, first with warm water and soap, then after you dry it, use a wax and grease remover.

3) Depending on substrate, you may want to consider an adhesion promoter. If not, spray with an epoxy primer, let it flash, then spray with a polyester surfacer.

4) Block sand it down, finish with 600 grit sandpaper.

5) Spray with sealer until full coverage.

6) Spray base, depending on color, amount of coats vary, generally speaking, 2 is good for a solid base color (red, blue, green). I usually spray a tack coat, then spray a medium-wet coat.

7) spray clear, always start with what you want it to look like. If you want a glass finish, spray heavy, to the point in which you're almost inducing runs, but don't spray to the point where it starts to run. 3 coats is max for a 2k-high solids urethane clear, if you want more, let it cure for 24 hours, sand with 600, then spray 3 more coats.

8) cut 'n' buff if you want, if not, then don't.

9) you're done

If you're painting with spray bombs (rattle cans), as everyone said, keep it to light coats, almost misting. It helps to stay a far distance, and quick passes. You're not trying to reach full coverage in 1 pass....more like 5 passes. Of course, that'll make it seem somewhat grainy, but it's a spray bomb, not an IWATA lph-400. Sanding in between coats does help, but if you do, remember to lay on one last coat of color before you clear it, or else it won't adhere. Alright, just wanted to help, good luck =D.

Originally Posted by Altimat

One thing I always do is warm the spray can in hot water for 20 mins.

How hot? aren't you concerned about explosion? there is all sort of warnings on the can. It does sound good though.

One more thing, what does "flash" mean?

Sorry, new to this.

Sounds like we are getting a really good thread going, with people with lots of experience here.

I have a 2000 Grand Prix, and I am looking for the finish of stock. Color will be a dark color, graphite is what it's called. Right now I have flush mounted my lcd screen with some plastic epoxy that you mix together.

I might go into a paint shop in the next few days, and ask them for advice on what to buy, and they can mix the color I want. But it's good to hear all the different ways everyone does it