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Thread: Need Suggestions for Bondo'ing my LCD please.

  1. #11
    Constant Bitrate Homebrew's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tbird2340
    Yes, I've been watching that one. I'm just not sure I want it to be flush like those..
    Sorry about that, when i read your edit about the buttons being inaccessible i assumed you had given up on having it recessed. A quick note though, if you plan to recess it and keep the screen in its housing, you'll have to do without the the 2 screws(above the heater controls) in the bezel. That is unless your able to raise the xenarc bezel quite a bit such as by losing the air vents and moving the xenarc bezel further up the radio bezel. The way sporttracguy has it mounted in the thread i posted, the back of the xenarc case blocks those screw holes. Now if you wanted to put the xenarc in the same location, but mounted further back(recessed), you'll have to either lose that radio support inside the dash(plastic bar going from the screw holes i mentioned to the back wall of the radio cavity) or at the very least cut it down considerably. Just some food for thought as i've been dealing with the same problems working on my mountaineer(explorer).

    -Kevin

  2. #12
    Raw Wave tbird2340's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Homebrew
    Sorry about that, when i read your edit about the buttons being inaccessible i assumed you had given up on having it recessed. A quick note though, if you plan to recess it and keep the screen in its housing, you'll have to do without the the 2 screws(above the heater controls) in the bezel. That is unless your able to raise the xenarc bezel quite a bit such as by losing the air vents and moving the xenarc bezel further up the radio bezel. The way sporttracguy has it mounted in the thread i posted, the back of the xenarc case blocks those screw holes. Now if you wanted to put the xenarc in the same location, but mounted further back(recessed), you'll have to either lose that radio support inside the dash(plastic bar going from the screw holes i mentioned to the back wall of the radio cavity) or at the very least cut it down considerably. Just some food for thought as i've been dealing with the same problems working on my mountaineer(explorer).

    -Kevin

    Kevin, I already got rid of that bracket there for the radio and the screw holes.. I had to for either the EATC mod I did or for my Lilli.. I can't remember which.
    Current Vehicle: 2007 Dodge Nitro

    Second Vehicle: Sold it :( 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab

    First Vehicle: 2003 Ford Ranger

  3. #13
    Raw Wave tbird2340's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IntellaWorks
    Just finished my bezel. (finally) I definatly wouldn't keep the LCD "behind" I'd cut what you need out of the bezel and use bondo to build up what you cut out. If you didn't want to do this originally because you're afraid you'll ruin the bezel, once you add bondo (even if you didnt cut) you'll "RUIN" the bezel. (Or at least have to do a ton of sanding and re-painting.

    ANything you cut from the bezel can be built back up with bondo.
    Why wouldn't you put the bezel behind (recessed)??
    Current Vehicle: 2007 Dodge Nitro

    Second Vehicle: Sold it :( 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab

    First Vehicle: 2003 Ford Ranger

  4. #14
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    have a look at what i did with some liquid plastic,, might help...see my link in siggy below

  5. #15
    Gender is Questionable ibrennan's Avatar
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    I wouldn't mount it behind, because you will not be able to see the top of the screen as it gets cut off by the bezel. I had this problem in my explorer but just redid it to make it flush and it looks a lot better.
    2001 Explorer
    Xenarc, Opus 90W, 120 GB HD, Bondo everywhere

    Sold the Explorer...got a 350z


  6. #16
    Raw Wave tbird2340's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ibrennan
    I wouldn't mount it behind, because you will not be able to see the top of the screen as it gets cut off by the bezel. I had this problem in my explorer but just redid it to make it flush and it looks a lot better.
    Pics???

    Before with it behind and after with it flush!??? Would be great!!!
    Current Vehicle: 2007 Dodge Nitro

    Second Vehicle: Sold it :( 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab

    First Vehicle: 2003 Ford Ranger

  7. #17
    Gender is Questionable ibrennan's Avatar
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    when I get home i'll post some pics
    2001 Explorer
    Xenarc, Opus 90W, 120 GB HD, Bondo everywhere

    Sold the Explorer...got a 350z


  8. #18
    Raw Wave tbird2340's Avatar
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    Can't wait... Thanks
    Current Vehicle: 2007 Dodge Nitro

    Second Vehicle: Sold it :( 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab

    First Vehicle: 2003 Ford Ranger

  9. #19
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    Question for Fargo

    Quote Originally Posted by Fargo
    have a look at what i did with some liquid plastic,, might help...see my link in siggy below
    Hey Fargo, I have been trying to get the Rigig Plastic filler for a while now and have not been able to find a place that sells it. If you could tell me where you bought it I would appreciate it. That stuff, from what I have seen in over 5 forums, is the best to mold plastic.

    Thanks

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by tbird2340
    No, I don't want to flush mount it. I would rather get it recessed...
    even still, it's the same method. Just don't flush it....

    maybe I'm not understanding exactly what you are wanting to do?

    Have you looked around on the site any to see how people have done theirs?
    Jan Bennett
    FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

    Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

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