Originally Posted by 2k1Toaster
hu?
where do you get that from?
he's posted today
97GST
so you are saying that you JUST want a layer of carbon fiber, not a full hood that's 100% carbon fiber?
if you're really picky on quality, I'm not sure this would be the way to go.
I've messed with CF, and in all reality, to get it to look great, you really do need to vacuum it. Maybe even using the impregnated stuff.
It's a lot like fiber glass, only you have to be MUCH more detailed and careful about what you do. As mentioned earlier, it's the look of the weave that you are after. Making sure that the weave is laying straight, etc is a royal PITA.
Then while curing, you run into issues of it dripping, self leveling, and pitting (the resin that is). It IS possible. But for something like a hood, I'd leave that up to the professionals who have spend the thousands on the proper machinery.
If you're wanting a FULL cf hood, you really need to leave that up to a professional who will vacuum it.
Jan Bennett
FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished
Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!
Originally Posted by 2k1Toaster
hu?
where do you get that from?
he's posted today
Jan Bennett
FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished
Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!
holy double post batman!
i would just save up and buy a cf hood. poorly done cf looks HORRIBLE if you ask me.
there, happy?
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Jan Bennett
FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished
Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!
haha...now it makes me look like i'm crazy![]()
I think the short answer to making a carbon fiber hood would first be to make a good mold of the hood. If you're just copying it in carbon fiber, then use wax/PVA as a mold release, spray gel coat, wait for gel coat to cure (air-inhibited though, so only exposed surface stays tacky, then reinforce with as much fiberglass as you care to.when mold cures completely crack the sucker off the hood and repeat the process only using epoxy gel coat, carbon fiber, and make a male part from your new female mold. I would say vacuum bagging is essential for the weight/strength/delamination thing. you don't need a *****load of vacuum... maybe 22-25" inHg.. so vacuum pumps from mcmaster or grainger should work... use a slow-curing epoxy so you have time to work and let it cure evenly... as far as vacuum bag supplies go... i've done layups with just a bag and mastic sealant, but you could (and probably should) go as far as using a peel ply and breather ply under the bag to ensure even press and soak up excess epoxy. It's not impossible to do without big or expensive machinery... all you really need is good information a few bucks and strict attention to detail. just a sidenote... you'll probably need to bury some hardpoints to mount hinges to like a piece of metal you can drill and tap into after the part cures... maybe consider that too as you build your mold/parts. that's my 2c.
if by "dry" cf you are talking about pre-preg CF... then yes, you need a vacuum and an oven. A pre-preg sheet already has the perfect amount of resin and hardener in it, so you just apply vacuum to it over the mold, and once it's taken it's shape, and all the wrinkles are worked out, you stick it in the oven and the epoxy thins out and flows to the shape of the mold as it finishes curing.
Et ipsa scientia potestas est.
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