I *heart* this thread
I *heart* this thread
Just wondering. How will this fit into the stock bezel mount location? It looks to be much taller to accomodate the bigger screen. Are you going to modify/get rid of the cupholder/blank peice to accept this? I assume so.Quote:
Originally Posted by Giuliano
Yes, I'm getting rid of the cupholder/blank section (already have) to make it fit.Quote:
Originally Posted by imprezive one
See this thread for pictures:
I've been cross-posting various threads for this project, depending on the subject at the time.
In this LCD thread, I mentioned an 8.4" LCD that had a native resolution of 1024x768, which is outstanding.
Unfortunately, that LCD is another 2cm too tall, or 4cm compared to the original bezel, to fit in the dash as-is, or even with the cupholder/blank removed.
The only option would have been to remove the A/C controls for space, and replace them with a servo/relay computer-controlled system.
THAT is a project for "Version 2" of the car computer system, far in the future, or next year, which ever comes first. ;-)
I'm already brainstorming on it... computer controlled with custom software designed to look like the WRX's A/C controls.. but with a small control box/panel for manual control.
It's a hefty project in itself, nevermind adding it on to an already big project like this.
Can't you just order a replacement bezel from the Subaru dealer? I know you can for Acura's (and you can get a cheaper bezel from SoundDomain specifically for the RSX).
Absolutely, I could, and it would cost me about $50 plus shipping for the part.Quote:
Originally Posted by Optikal
However, the part itself is made out of a very hard plastic called ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), a form of "normal" plastic (styrene).
As a result, it is rather difficult to cut, modify, and shape - it tends to shred instead of cut smoothly.
Polyurethane resin plastic, which is what I'm going to be using for this, is a lot like epoxy glue/putty in nature, and is quite a bit easier to work with.
It also has the useful property of being immune to strong solvents, such as lacquer thinner.
So yes, in this case, I am spending a lot more to create a mold and duplicate the part in resin.
The upshot is that if I was working on the modified part, and I somehow screw it up.. I can just pour another cast, and start again.
Also, I think it is easier to make a bigger and to cut from it then making an actual factory made part bigger then it was intended to...
If you meant that it is easier to make a copy and cut it, than it is to cut the original, then yes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marsupial
The resin is a softer plastic, and is easier to sculpt/cut/carve.
Not that it has to be soft - there are resins that have plastic fiber fillers and aluminum fillers, and can be milled, turned, tapped, etc..
If you modify a part, and then cast a duplicate of it, the new copy would be stronger than the original modified part, because it is cast as one whole piece.
Well, if you take the original part, manage to cut it, you're stucked to putty it bigger and paint it for a (IMHO) ****ty result, compared to having a whole new part with your technique...
I always wanted to try plastic molding, but never knew where to start from... thanks to you I might get to try soon... ;)
My eagerly-awaited silicone RTV molding rubber arrived today! Huzzah!
The rubber consists of two parts - the base material, and a curing agent.
By themselves, they'll sit in their containers and do nothing.
But mixed together, the chemicals in the materials generate heat, causing the rubber to cure, or vulcanize, and become solid. Hence the RTV, room temperature vulcanizing.
The big bucket is a 1-gallon pail, filled with about 8-9 pounds of base rubber, in a liquid form - it can be poured, but it's thick.
The bottle on top contains the curing agent.
When the base rubber and the curing agent are mixed together in a 10:1 ratio by weight (base rubber:curing agent), the rubber starts the curing process, which takes 16-24 hours to complete.
For this version, once you mix the two parts, you have 60 minutes to work the rubber, and it cures in 16 hours at 77 degrees F. But for best results, leave the mold alone for 24 hours or more.
This rubber is measured by weight, so it helps to have a good scale - and for a 10:1 ratio, one that measures in grams or kilograms makes it easier.
I got mine direct from Polytek by mail order. The prices shown on the web site include the cost of shipping via UPS Ground, so the price may change.
When I ordered my 9 pound bucket, it was $116 - but there's a secret they don't tell you until you order, and that is new customers get their ordered product at a special discount price - basically free shipping, so it cost me around $96., or around $10 per pound.
Of course, I need a lot of rubber for this mold, so a full 9 pounds is necessary.
I'll be finishing up the molding box tonight, and will start the pour tomorrow. De-molding will probably be on Sunday.
Just wanted to ask, are there any cheaper alternatives out there that could be used? I had no idea it was so costly.