Thread: How to cut need holes in metal?

I did all the same things to my case -- using my dremel tool.

Originally Posted by Arathranar

...My current plan involves having a cpu heatsink + fan combo that will only just fit the inside the height of the case (3" tall). Then I'll cut a whole in the case top immediately above that of the right size and add a minimal fan grille (just enough to mostly protect against chopped fingers as I don't want to limit the airflow). So I really want a neat hole that I can dremel a bit to remove sharp edges left after the hole is cut.

I'll also need some 60mm holes in the case side to get airflow out (cpu fans are typically down aren't they?).

Finally since this is going under a seat and the case is a little too long, I'm going to cut a big hole in the end to allow access to all the m/b connectors with the m/b set back within the case. I can get cables into that hole but I can't get them to connect to the m/b if I had it right up to the edge of the case as there's no clearance for the connectors that low to the ground.

My case started out as a metal key box from Ikea (based on a suggestion/thread I read in this forum last year ). That box works great for mini-itx, but any metal key box or security box matching your measurement needs should work. The box I selected, approx: 7"L x 10¼"W x 2¼"D.

http://www.ikea.com/webapp/wcs/store...roductId=11091

For my application, I decided the following:

top=side of box with lid;
bottom=side of box opposite of lid; I mounted my mini-itx mobo to the bottom inside the case
end=side of box measuring 7";
side=side of box measuring 10¼";

I cut one end (a 7-inch side) out of the box to allow accessibility to the motherboard connections (for my video, usb, power cables, etc...). I also run my power cable from the opus through this open-ended gap. This open-end gap can be filled by the mobo cover-plate provided with mini-itx board, but I just left it open for now.

Next I drilled holes along the side opposite of the top lid/hinge (along the 10¼-inch side to allow air flow for fan). This may or may not be necessary, but what the hell… I did it with good intensions

Next, I performed a “fit-test” of my intended fan/fan grill locations by duck-taping both the fan and fan-grill to the box in the intended location. Next I closed the lid with fan and fan-grill attached and verified the fan did not interfere/touch the motherboard. I also verfied the lid would close with the fan/fan-grill attached. After the fit-test checked-out OK, I cut a circular hole on the top/lid of the metal box measuring approx. 3" in diameter. Once cut, I fine-tuned the cut to fit the fan and fan grill I selected. After shaping the cut-out, I mounted the fan and fan grill to the inside of the lid. Even though I mounted to the inside of the case I still have complete access to the motherboard. For those still reading and keeping score… I mounted my laptop hard drive to the lid also.

Finally, I drilled four holes to the inside bottom of the case matching the locations on my motherboard.

After drilling, cutting, sanding, I painted the case with a flat black paint, and mounted mobo mouting screws, and mounted the mini-itx motherboard, with the connection side facing the opening cut from the one of the ends of this box. This case is stored under the rear seat and houses a Via M10K Mini-ITX.

A final note regarding my experience mounting a M10K mini-itx into an Ikea-Karbo box -- It is a tight-fit.

I had to remove all my components/connections, etc... and mount the board first, to clear the lid/etc. I also cutout a small portion of the back of the lid/hinge to ease installation for my mounting process. I reattached all my components (memory, ide cables, power cables, etc…) after the board was mounted.


Let me know if you’re interested and I will take / post some pictures.
slang

I'd be interested in pictures.

I could never find any correctly sized boxes online but ended up finding one that just (and I mean just!) fits under the passenger seat. But it's wider than I really wanted necessitating the hole cut in the side so I can have all those bulky connectors recessed - but it'll be a real pain getting them all plugged in and getting the box in place!

Yea, pics would be ideal

Update: Home Despot does indeed sell hole cutters for metals. About $10 to $14 each or a set for $70. I'll probably get the set since I definitely need two sizes plus the axle bit. The set doesn't quite have the biggest I might need though.

Originally Posted by Arathranar

Update: Home Despot does indeed sell hole cutters for metals. About $10 to $14 each or a set for $70. I'll probably get the set since I definitely need two sizes plus the axle bit. The set doesn't quite have the biggest I might need though.

How about this. Use a small router style cutter clamp a template with a spacer to the metal. The cutter cuts a clean hole larger than the template by twice the distance between the edge of the template (where the cutter shaft is running) and the edge of the cutter. This means you get a clean edged hole because you can cut the thin ply template with a hole saw (or whatever) and ensure its smooth edged before cutting the sheet of alloy.

No offense, but could you say that again with proper punctuation and stuff? I have no idea what you just said.

Originally Posted by Question

No offense, but could you say that again with proper punctuation and stuff? I have no idea what you just said.

Sorry is that a bit clearer?

A little, I think. So you're proposing to only use the small cutter? How would you get a neat edge - you'd surely have lots of little indents between each point you use the small cutter.

Given we're taling about $14 for the bigger cutter vs a lot of time and effort to use a small cutter (and I can't see how you'd get the smooth edge without a lot of work), it doesn't seem worth it to me.

Originally Posted by Arathranar

A little, I think. So you're proposing to only use the small cutter? How would you get a neat edge - you'd surely have lots of little indents between each point you use the small cutter.

Given we're taling about $14 for the bigger cutter vs a lot of time and effort to use a small cutter (and I can't see how you'd get the smooth edge without a lot of work), it doesn't seem worth it to me.

The shaft of the cutter is running against the template this means the cutter cuts out the metal slightly larger than the template and the shaft of the cutter is copying exactly the edge orf the template whatever shape so the hole will be the mirror of the template , but a bit bigger. (Allowing for the radius of the cutter) We are talking about following the edge of the pattern with a cutter and not using a drill to keep poking holes through the metal.