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Thread: Best way to make a 'flip up' monitor?

  1. #31
    MySQL Error Scouse Monkey's Avatar
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    Bugbyte, cheers for the answer. How do you find that Futaba servo? I was looking at some GWS servos to keep cost down as i can get a model with 2 ball bearings and metal gears for $17 which has 119Oz torque (8.6kg) however i am planning on using 2 as i am too lazy to build a bearing decent hinge for the other side and if i use 2 then i will get 16kg of torque and nothing will move that! Mu servos will also be mounted just below half was down a 7" screen so there should be much less torque required as it will be more balanced than your flip up. to ge them to move as 1 i was planning on removing the encoder from one and feeding the position into if from the other (with the contacts flipped so the servo works in the opposite direction).

    the problem i have is the slide out requres a lot of turns so my servos would be modified for continuousr rotation but then the encoders would have to be mounted somewhere else on gears - messy! Am looking for a variable resistor that can do up to 8 turns but i am not hopeful!

  2. #32
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    Bugbyte's Avatar
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    It's a Futaba S3801 heavy duty servo. Goes for about $55 USD. Available at:
    http://www2.towerhobbies.com

    194 oz/in torque at 6 volts, which is what I run it at.

    BTW, you ought to be able to just use a 'Y' connector for your two servo setup and flip one servo backwards, shouldn't you? Unless they have to be in a special position.

    When you finish the slider, I'd like a look. My rig is a little far away from the driver and could be improved by mounting it on a 'sled' to move forward after flip up.
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  3. #33
    MySQL Error Scouse Monkey's Avatar
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    hey bugbyte, yeah i saw your servo on the site. Your 10" screen must be pretty heavy so does it have any problem when you accelerate etc?

    I need to hook the servos up to one encoder as i have no way to reverse it with the control circuit i am using and even if i could i would have to get the servos aligned exact or they will fight each other for position - not good!

    The slide is my biggest headeache so far. I want to use a screw drive but i don't want a silly thread pitch that needs a fast motor si i am actually considering using drill bits as the shafts as these have a very coarse pitch but it migh be too coarse and allow the screen to be pushed back. A canabilised G-clamp is also looking like a good solution if i can find one with a nice wide thread with a pitch around 2mm or more.

  4. #34
    I see dead kittens Quattro's Avatar
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    Scouse, keep us posted on how to go about doing the slide out. I would really like to know as well, because I would need to do something similar for a cover I am making for my screen. So far I am thinking that using a screw drive would be my best option.
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  5. #35
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    hi Quattro, after my bragging about making a motorised screen i may be reverting back to moulded as i have been offered a screen in bits! Oh well. I have quite few designs for the screen and the control circuit is designed (including opening when you unlock the car ) but making a motorised mechanism is trcky when you want it to be fully adjustable as i would.

    For a cover i imagine you have nice defined start and end points - ie open and closed. This is very easy. For a screw drive you can use something as simple as threaded bar although this is not ideal - although nylon threaded bar might do for your cover. The problem with threaded bar is the fine pitch. What i was planning on doing was either using a hacked up G-clamp - one with a nice flat topped, medium coarseness thread or actually use a drill bit and melt some nylon around it that would then move along the bit as it was turned. The drill bit idea is pretty novel and would requre a fewer number of turns as i was planning on using servos which are not very fast.

    If you can, i would go with the the G-clamp thread and use a pretty fast motor. some hobby places have small DC motors with gear reduction - this would be ideal. CPC in the UK have some for about 5-10 each that would be perfect. DC motors spin very quick - probably too quick - so the gearing would help a lot and also improve the torque. all you need then is end stops to kill the motor power - use microswitches and if you put rubber 'o' rings on the screw thread at the ends then they will act as a buffer and slow the motion as it gets to then ends making a nice smooth stop - you could also use coil springs on the thread or use switches to change to a lower power near the ends. The beauty of the screw drive (but not using drills as the pitch is too coarse) is that with the power off the object cannot be moved so you can simplify the control circuit to pure on/off. EG:

    doors open or ign on - cover open

    doors locked, ign off - cover closed (also have overide switch in case you are in an undesirable area and stop at the lights)

    or have it hooked up to your PC.

    If you use two screw drives (can be driven off 1 motor using gears or belts) then you don't have to worry about making slide tracks either which is a bonus.

    Need any more info jsut let ask, hope this helps

    Andy

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