Solvent adhesives... why don't more people use them?

**coachreed** · 05-21-2005, 09:24 PM

Originally Posted by Tuned Vitesse

Can you not fill it with some more ABS gook and touch it up with some texture paint?

Yes, I can and will... I was getting lazy and started installing things... and then I stepped back to look... didn't like it at all... I have since gutted the monitor from the dash panel and will do exactly that... going to throw some tape up like somebody suggested but instead of backfilling it with bondo, I'll fill with ABS goop... I was going to do that this weekend but as usual, other things (my sons birthday) take the front seat... maybe next weekend.

Later!

**coachreed** · 05-21-2005, 09:32 PM

Originally Posted by shamyday

FLESIK, did you sand the paint off of your monitor before you applied the plastic? I have a Lilliput and the ABS bonds to the sanded plastic really well.

You should DEFINITELY sand the paint off or your not bonding plastic to plastic... rather plastic to paint... this is bound to fail in time...

**darqnez** · 05-22-2005, 07:10 PM

Originally Posted by JaxPt

Ahhh yeh Liquid Plastic, I've seen the stuf around for awhile, Tim Baille an IASCA world champion could be the spokesperson for it. His shop molds most dash accessories almost exclusivly with it. So much that recently they started to sell thier own brand.
http://hzemall.com/online_store/onlinestore.htm

He says the stuff is so much easier to work with tan bondo and doesnt crack like bondo would over time. heres some pics of the fabrication work they've done
http://hzemall.com/our_gallery/insta...sh/sunfire.htm
http://hzemall.com/our_gallery/insta...dash/mazda.htm
http://hzemall.com/our_gallery/insta...ers/accord.htm
http://hzemall.com/our_gallery/insta...console/vw.htm

Up until now I never knew what it was made of, i planned on using it to install my lcd.
Thanks for the info there coachreed

Hi guys I tracked down the originator of these products, Its US Chemicals, but which one of their products is the actual "liquid plastic" im not sure, their icing is actually called icing, even has the same raspberry hardner...but does anyone know which they HzEMALL used to create "liquid platsic" ?

**fonseca** · 06-07-2005, 03:56 AM

Bumping this back to the top.

I had no issues bonding my Xenarc bezel to my dash piece after sanding the Xenarc thoroughly, which is definitely painted BTW.

My first attempt didn't go too well, since my mixture was too thick. I thinned it out and made barriers with tape, and it seeped in everywhere like I wanted. I've now sanded once and applied a second layer to fill in the worst sections. So far it's looking very good, and is definitely strong. I've twisted my dash piece much more than I would even think of doing had I used fiberglass or epoxy, and no cracks.

I'll post some pics once I'm done.

Originally Posted by darqnez

but does anyone know which they HzEMALL used to create "liquid platsic" ?

I believe hzemall used to use the 2-part stuff from Dominion Sureseal, which required an expensive gun to apply. But now he has his own formula at a grossly inflated price.

**darqnez** · 06-09-2005, 02:10 PM

Originally Posted by fonseca

I believe hzemall used to use the 2-part stuff from Dominion Sureseal, which required an expensive gun to apply. But now he has his own formula at a grossly inflated price.

Yeah i got that far but which one im still not clear on, right now im using Evercoat Fiber Tech, this stuff get really strong and sanding is a bit of a pain but it works, wish I knew exactly what HZemall based his product on....

**fonseca** · 06-11-2005, 06:11 AM

Originally Posted by darqnez

wish I knew exactly what HZemall based his product on....

Straight from the horse's mouth. He has a lot of old posts there talking about rigid filler. I've never used it.

I have used Duramix 4040, which sounds very similar. It worked well for what little I did with it (molding radio bezels). But it was expensive and a hassle to use without the gun.

Either product, or even cheap plastic weld, is worlds better than epoxy or fiberglass/bondo for joining plastic parts. I'm pleased with how the homebrewed liquid plastic worked out though. It definitely needs to be thin, say molasses thin, and applied sparingly in multiple layers. I started too thick with heavy layers, and it took so long to dry that it made the Xenarc bezel very soft in a few spots, I'm lucky I didn't screw it up.

I've about got it built up like I want, just need to sand and see if I need more. I started by taping it at the angle I wanted(after removing a lot of material to get that angle) and tacking it in place with drops of liquid plastic on the back side. It looks ugly as sin in the third pic, but I think it will end up great. These are early photos, it's nearly completed now.

This was so easy to work with in a condiment bottle. The next time I use it I will have two bottles, one very soupy and the othermore like molasses. And I'll get better tape that doesn't leave glue everywhere.

**fonseca** · 06-11-2005, 06:26 AM

Few more shots. The first is with it applied as a soupy mix, wish I had started like that. It seeped right into the cracks and is super smooth. Next shots show the front top of the bezel/surround, applied too thick. But I went on to completely fill the areaanyway, so it doesn't matter.

The best part is how you can't separate or peel off the dried liquid plastic at all, it truly becomes one solid piece.

**Snootch** · 06-14-2005, 07:53 PM

I gotta bump this post up to the top, 'cause i'm using this technique, and it is working very well. However, instead of using chips of ABS, i'm using powder. I get it by killing a few scraps of ABS with my grinding wheel, scoop the dust up, and funnel it into my squirt bottle, add a little acetone, and Voila! ABS glue after 5 minutes of shaking. It works really well in bonding ABS parts together, and also works well as a filler too. The downside is if it is laid on thick (in an application as a filler) it takes a day or two to dry thoroughly. Also another tip, don't heat it up, or put it in the sun to try to get it to dry quicker, because it will expand and "bubble" up, leaving a porous spongy appearance when it is sanded. Just let it sit on your workspace for a day or two, then sand. Pic of my work so far:

**fonseca** · 06-19-2005, 12:58 AM

It also bubbles if it's put on too thickly. I warped some areas of the Xenarc bezel where it was applied too heavily, and the end result was porous as well. Luckily the screen internals still fit properly. At one point the Xenarc bezel was as pliable as putty from the liquid plastic. I really thought I had ruined it. Thin layers so it dries fast is key.

First photo: tape dam
Second photo: warped bezel interior
Third photo: after sanding + first fill

**WxGuy1** · 06-19-2005, 10:36 PM

How "malleable" would a sheet of ABS plastic be if heated up with a heat gun? I mean, if I need to make a 12" long curved piece, would it be easiest to but an ABS sheet, heat it with a heat gun, and bend it that way? Or would this not work? What aboutl mold from a material other than plaster?