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Thread: Solvent adhesives... why don't more people use them?

  1. #261
    Super Moderator. If my typing sucks it's probably because I'm driving.... turbocad6's Avatar
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    not sure really.... I wouldn't expect r&s strauss to have this..... queens yellow pages.... there has to be many of them in queens.... or just pop into any local bodyshop & ask them where a supply house is....

  2. #262
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    Ok...found a supply shop that has it...but it's $24 for a unknown size. Did your package tell you what size of the content?

  3. #263
    Super Moderator. If my typing sucks it's probably because I'm driving.... turbocad6's Avatar
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    6oz each tube...12oz total pakage...

  4. #264
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    Great...thanks again

  5. #265
    Super Moderator. If my typing sucks it's probably because I'm driving.... turbocad6's Avatar
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    the 3m stuff is 5oz each.... figures

  6. #266
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    In post #245 you sanded and filled....sanded and filled. Did you keep on filling with the same compound? or something like bondo? and is it hard to sand?

    Using the ABS plastic repair kit, it was a pain to sand. PAIN!

  7. #267
    Super Moderator. If my typing sucks it's probably because I'm driving.... turbocad6's Avatar
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    that's where power tools come in handy

    for the most part I do all the work with this stuff..... minor imperfections can be handled with a spot putty... no bondo. the problem is anything else isn't going to be flexable so I wouldn't use more than for minor imperfections.... I don't allow my guys to use anything else on bumpers but this flexable repair.... potential for cracking when flexed is the issue there

    if your panel is very ridgid & will not be flexed then a putty can be used, although I avoid it.... there are also available flexable puttys for bumpers... I don't use it because it's not nearly as durable, but for a bezel it would probably be o.k......

    what are you sanding it with?... forget about using anything fine for shaping.... you can use like a 36-40 grit to rough shape by hand around an 80 grit with power.... move up to 100 then 180 before prime....220 after primer, then another coat....320 then 400 at least for paint ...I like to go 500-600 for final paint prep..... power tools will make your life easier.... a cheap da from sears or something can help alot if you have access to compressed air..... an electric sander could also work I suppose, but I don't use anything but air

  8. #268
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    This solvent adhesive is good but take tooo long to make.
    Turbocad method is much faster as I did it myself (same type of product, different maker)
    This is the product I use: SEM bumper repair.


    Not that hard to sand. Beside this product, I also used putty filler (bondo brand) to fill pin holes.
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  9. #269
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    Unhappy Dynatron vs. SEM bumper repair?

    Is the Dynatron bumper repair product better than the SEM version? I ask because I just got most of the way through fabricating a Lilliput bezel into a flat sheet of 1/8" ABS and had one of the seams separate after the SEM bumper repair had cured for > 24 hours. Then with only a minor amount of force, I was able to pop out the entire bezel from the opening in the ABS. It seemed to separate from the ABS sheet just as easily as from the Lilliput beze. I had sanded the bezel down to the raw plastic and had filed the edges of the ABS as well. I should have guessed there would be problems when the cured material flaked off of the surface of the ABS fairly easily while sanding.

    Can I expect better results from the Dynatron? Also, is there a product that has a little more working time than the SEM? It seems like I only get around 3 minutes before it has set up enough so that it won't flow into seams anymore.

    If not, it sounds like the dissolved ABS will do a better job assuming a thick enough solution.

  10. #270
    Super Moderator. If my typing sucks it's probably because I'm driving.... turbocad6's Avatar
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    the sem is more of a filler product.... with less than great adheasion.... dynatron is much stronger & is closer to an epoxy type product..... it is much harder to sand, but is much stronger too.... I would recomend welding at key mounting points, then dynatron or equivelent.... which sem is not....

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