Page 4 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 61

Thread: Indash Retractable Keyboard - in progress

  1. #31
    Variable Bitrate
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    was Boston -> now Canada!
    Posts
    382
    Shotgunefx,

    Do you have any more info on how you actually connected your motor to the threaded drive rod? I'm trying to figure out a simular thing except I'm using a 12 volt geared motor. The motor shaft is one of those half round tips and not a round tip so this might pose a problem but I think I can use your same approach.

    You used the nylon scews and inserted that into the spacer but how did the threaded shaft attach to this spacer? Any more detail on the construction would be awesome.

    Thx,
    Chuck

  2. #32
    Admin. Linux loser.
    Auto Apps:loading...
    Bugbyte's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Corning, NY
    Posts
    7,364
    Blog Entries
    2
    Scouse Monkey had suggested using heat shrink tubing or a rubber tube at one point if the torque didn't have to be too high.
    Quote Originally Posted by ghettocruzer View Post
    I was gung ho on building a PC [until] just recently. However, between my new phone having internet and GPS and all...and this kit...Im starting to have trouble justfiying it haha.
    Want to:
    -Find out about the new iBug iPad install?
    -Find out about carPC's in just 5 minutes? View the Car PC 101 video

  3. #33
    Raw Wave shotgunefx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,800
    Quote Originally Posted by chuckster
    Shotgunefx,

    Do you have any more info on how you actually connected your motor to the threaded drive rod? I'm trying to figure out a simular thing except I'm using a 12 volt geared motor. The motor shaft is one of those half round tips and not a round tip so this might pose a problem but I think I can use your same approach.

    You used the nylon scews and inserted that into the spacer but how did the threaded shaft attach to this spacer? Any more detail on the construction would be awesome.

    Thx,
    Chuck
    Originally I had the nylon anchor on the tip which went into a metal spacer which happened to fit the threaded driveshaft as well. (3/16 or 10/24)

    Then I tapped a little 6/32 (IIRC) hole in the spacer and used a little screw to hold the driveshaft in the spacer.

    I ended up redoing it. I used what are called tension pins. They look like small metal tubes with a slit in them. I got them at home depot.

    They are a PITA to work with. They are meant to go in a hole and never come out. (As I found out when trying to use a hole in my vice to keep it steady while I opened it. )

    So I basically opened it up a little bit and slid it over the driveshaft. Then I used a larger tension pin that fit into the spacer and jammed the smaller tension pin into that. On the plus side, it's never coming off without a tremendous fight. Minus is it was incredibly hard to get it together and having two pins added an inch to the assembly.

    I've been figuring out lately what's going where so I haven't yet put much time into refining this til I know what the constraints are going to be.

    If your using one of those motors with a flattened edge (I'll call it a d-shaft), I'd go for a spacer to attach it with a set screw. Fill the spacer with an epoxy or somthing similar (I'd try raycrete , it's not an expoy but bonds to everything and is non-toxic, plus you have a chance in hell of getting it apart again) and jam the d-shaft into it. So the spacer will now fit perfectly onto the driveshaft of the motor. (Need to take care that it's balanced when you set this up)

    Then you just have to worry about front to back motion. The side of the spacer with the flat part of the d-shaft is where I'd tap a hole for the setscrew. You might need to tap it before filling it. I know when I tried this method, the expoy crumbled from being tapped. So once you got a setscrew in there, you should be good.

    FYI, I'm only marginally awake as I write this, if anything's unclear let me know and I'll try and clarify later.

  4. #34
    Variable Bitrate
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    was Boston -> now Canada!
    Posts
    382
    Thanks a lot for the reply's.

    I measured the "D" shaft on the motor using a drill bit hole sizer and it is 1/4". This might work in my favor as I could possibly get the same size threaded shaft.

    Did you find the spacers at HD as well? I live about 40 min driving time from Boston and would love to see your setup if at all possible.

    Thx,
    Chuck

  5. #35
    Raw Wave shotgunefx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,800
    Quote Originally Posted by chuckster
    Thanks a lot for the reply's.

    I measured the "D" shaft on the motor using a drill bit hole sizer and it is 1/4". This might work in my favor as I could possibly get the same size threaded shaft.

    Did you find the spacers at HD as well? I live about 40 min driving time from Boston and would love to see your setup if at all possible.

    Thx,
    Chuck
    Hi Chuck,
    Got them at HD too. They had draws in the fastener isle that had all that stuff. As far as showing off the setup, when all is said and done, I'd be glad too. Right now everything is half done and fully annoying.

  6. #36
    Maximum Bitrate brrman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN USA
    Posts
    523
    this thread amazes me - I was thinking about doing the exact same thing to drop my screen and have a dvd player behind it, but I gave up because my brain started to hurt too much.
    Car: 2000 Audi A4 Avant 1.8t
    Carputer 2.0: removed. Back to stock.

  7. #37
    Variable Bitrate danon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    370

    Talking

    `
    [....99.9%]
    [HW] 566eMHz/128mb/6gb, FlyVideo3k, RandMgps, M1-ATX, 7" Lilliput, VGA2AVadptrFor2ndVideo, 4CH/100rms, 10"Sub, 40AhDeepCycleTank
    [....99.8%]
    [SW] XP/MMC/FP:D3,FlyTV/AxifeFM,CarMM?
    [Working on] puttingBackEvrythg.

  8. #38
    Maximum Bitrate 2Fast's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Bristol UK
    Posts
    595
    That is one cool idea, how is it coming along

  9. #39
    Raw Wave shotgunefx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,800
    Quote Originally Posted by 2FastMR2
    That is one cool idea, how is it coming along
    It's on hold. Ultimately my lcd is going to replace my gauges (actually I'm going to have both analog gauges and the lcd in a flipout unit), until then, I put the lilliput in the doubledin which leaves no room for the keyboard. So it's on hold until I move the lcd out of there.

  10. #40
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    44
    I gave this a go a while back for my lilliput screen. Not sure if it was the way I did it or what but it was very juddery. I changed it all to a rack and pinion set up - this works really well but the torque is so great it destroys itself if it jams - seriously if nothing broke I reckon it could jack my car up!

Page 4 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Laptop keyboard to the PS2 port....
    By claylong in forum General Hardware Discussion
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 09-22-2007, 06:29 AM
  2. retractable keyboard
    By Moneyfink in forum Input Devices
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 03-16-2005, 02:21 PM
  3. RR 03-12-05 .. Keyboard Support ...
    By guino in forum Road Runner
    Replies: 26
    Last Post: 03-15-2005, 01:48 AM
  4. 2 part question (keyboard hacks)
    By chuckctv in forum Input Devices
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 09-07-2004, 08:24 PM
  5. Disabling BIOS keyboard error?
    By Squeezer in forum General Hardware Discussion
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 02-02-2001, 08:29 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •