Originally Posted by djXternal
I think the automotive one is better. That's what I'll be using!
Ok I have just recently run into this problem... from this point and earlier i have always been using the bondo all-purpose putty, because thats what my local store carried, but recently they have started to carry bondo autobody filler.... which one of these is the correct one to use?
Debating on installing a carpc in my Jeep.....
well....first off bondo is a brand......so its kinda hard to know what product you want. Typically the word bondo is associated with body filler and fiberglass/body filler mixtures. Most people start with fiberglass resin, then put a glass/filler mix on top of that, and finish it off by filling tiny holes with lightweight filler. So to answer your question..."which one?" the answer is more or less all of them. However a lot of people just go with 1 glass/filler mix.....i've used bondos "fiberglass jelly" which is pretty easy to use and with enough sanding its all you need.
secondly, from what i've heard, bondo is actually one of the crappiest autobody filler manufacturers, but because of their emense popularity most stores dont carry anything else.
Lilliput; XPC/FLEX mobo; 1.7 ghz P4 Mobile;512 DDR; 160 gb HDD; opus 150; slot usb dvd-rw
My work log
Bondo or similar products should only be used as a skim coat to fill-in pinholes and sanding scratches. It's not reliable to use as your main compound to blend a factory trim piece to a LCD bezel. It will eventually crack and separate. There are better products out there that will perform better altough at a higher cost. I like Duramix 4040 the best. It applies easily (with special gun), sets up fast and sands easily. You can then use a glaze or putty designed for plastic repair to fill-in pinholes and scratches. These products are a lot more expensive but the end result is much better and more professional looking. Here are some suggestions.Originally Posted by djXternal
Main blending/filling product:
Duramix 4040 (http://www.handsontools.com/store-pr...t%3E_9505.html)
3M Automix 5883 (http://www.handsontools.com/store-pr...t%3E_3876.html)
3M Piranha Finishing Putty (http://www.handsontools.com/store-pr...t%3E_4281.html)
USC Blaze Glaze Finishing Putty (http://www.handsontools.com/store-pr...E_9594770.html)
SEM Polyester Glaze (http://www.handsontools.com/store/sh...roduct_id=9063)
I'm been using the carmix platic repair and let me tell you that it a bargin compare with other fillers that don't that stick hard... you pay more but on the long run you don't have problems.
Actually that statement is only half true. While the end result may be much better in terms of strength the end result will look exactly the same. The proffesianality is due the the person who is doing the body work regaurdless of the filler used.Originally Posted by ED27
-Jesus- King of Kings Lord of Lords
For Duramix 4040 (these stuff is expensive especially with the gun) you can use this product SEM: Bumper Repair #68422. These 2 are very much the same but SEM is much cheaper and you don't need that "special gun".
For ABS plastic, you can mell them yourself. Check out one of the thread regarding to that stuff in this fab forum.
That's a given. I think most people already know that the skill of the person doing the job is the most important but my point is limited to the context of the forum - plastic dash trim work not auto body work. Initially you could have the same looking results but what about a few weeks or months down the road when the lesser quality stuff starts to crack, chip and separate. Doing a professional job is more than aesthetics and what you see on the surface.Originally Posted by antimatter
I think that there are higher and lower quality fillers but i dont think that the filler is really that important, More so the bonding agent. If you ensure that your bond is good and there is little stress the filler you put on makes little differnce. THe only bondo that i have had crack (the regular bondo) is when i lost the bond due to stress and a bad epoxy job. It wasn't ABS on ABS, i neglected to sand down the paint on th lilliput bezel. Under stress the epoxy gave way leading to a crack in the filler.Originally Posted by ED27
The filler is just that a filler not meant to be a bonding agent. When done right you can have the exact same result as using one of the more expensive plastic mixes. This is my point.
In that respect you can also have the exact same bond and the exact same bond at a fraction of the cost by using ABS chips and the solvent method. That way the two peices actually melt together.
-Jesus- King of Kings Lord of Lords
I use rage gold