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Thread: Labelling buttons for an OEM look - how?

  1. #11
    MySQL Error scott_fx's Avatar
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    ah, i didnt realize that was your end goal. i did something like this in my first design. i didnt use tactile buttons instead i used qtouch proximity ic's which can be wired to an ipac2 keyboard emulator that would be mapped to appropriate hotkeys in centrafuse.



    related link
    http://www.qprox.com/products/qt1xxx.php

    youll probably need to side light it as i found back lighting to cause some problems with the electrode.
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  2. #12
    Variable Bitrate
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    Dont know if this will help you, but have you checked out NKK switches? They have some very nice ones, LED backlight too!

    i like your idea of putting a letter over the face, spraying, and removing the letter. i've seen really small letters before, check some art shops.
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  3. #13
    MySQL Error scott_fx's Avatar
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    i did the vinyl letter thing and it's very hard to get hard crisp lines, laser etching is the way to go.

    i'd paint the backside of the plexi black, send it out to get etched then side light the plexi with some led's with the tops sanded off for better dispersal.
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  4. #14
    Low Bitrate Stonewall78's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dexter
    Dont know if this will help you, but have you checked out NKK switches? They have some very nice ones, LED backlight too!
    NKK also has some graphical LCD switches (about 64x33) that are pretty neat but $$$$.

  5. #15
    Constant Bitrate Gibson99's Avatar
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    yeah those nkk lcd switches look nifty, but i'm not sure that's what i'd want anyway. however, i did find some nice backlit switches from nkk that have a clear lens which i can put my own labels under, or if i feel like paying them even more, have them print up some "filters" for the switches. whatever... i have a good laser printer and can use some lightweight (14-16#) paper or even overhead transparency material to make my own labels. now i may have to tweak the faceplate design, but that's ok - it's fluid anyway.

    this is what i'm looking at now: http://www.nkkswitches.com/pdf/hbilluminated.pdf

    while it's not quite as OEM looking as i wanted, it's really what i was originally looking for in the first place. I can deal with cheesier labels for the bass and volume knobs, as well as my "logo" at the bottom if it means i can do it all myself, cheaper.

    edit: after pricing these buttons... yikes. $13.50 EACH for white illuminated ones. i'm thinking it'll still be cheaper to laser etch/cut a plexi panel and have non-illum buttons like i originally drew up above! i just need to finish tweaking my drawing and send it to a few laser places and see what they'll charge me.
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  6. #16
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    Touch Screen???

    Ok, having read what your trying to do, and looking at the suggestions that you have recieved, have you considered having the plexi panel it's self laser engraved and filled? Then after doing that, use a resistive touch screen (you can buy just the touch screen, not on a monitor, should be about $25 for the size you'l need. Now you can clean it (it's a smooth surface). And you can redefine the buttons, since you will handle it all in software.

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    etgfx

  7. #17
    Constant Bitrate Gibson99's Avatar
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    this is an idea i had not considered, and it sounds like a good cheap way to go about it. however, i am going for the tactile feel, so i can operate it blind, without even looking down very long. that's why i want actual buttons.

    i actually already have a 7" lili touch, but don't want to dash mount it for security reasons (i drive a convertible and don't have a garage to park my car in overnight or at work), plus the screen would probably wash out in sunlight (top down). i'm just planning on keeping the lili in the glovebox so i can just take it out whenever i need navigation or the passenger wants to watch a video or play solitaire or something.
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  8. #18
    Low Bitrate tarpitblue's Avatar
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    Suggestion I have is dry transfer letters. You can get black, white, different sizes, they even have some custom gauge layouts. They're dirt cheap and even sell a hard coat you can apply over it to protect it. This is the route I'm goin. Here's the link: http://www.minute-man.com/acatalog/D..._bu_Datak.html

  9. #19
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    not to steal the thread, but if i was to use these buttons for my custom armrest/carpc control unit do you think dry transfer letters would last if i went over the buttons with a clearcoat afterwards....or would the letters crumple from the clearcoat resolution ? og and i will paint them silver before the transfer.

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  10. #20
    Low Bitrate tarpitblue's Avatar
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    If you go to the link, you'll see they have a specially made hardcoat that will protect the letters.

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