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Thread: 98 Accord with Xenarc 700TSV bezel fabrication

  1. #11
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    Well i've heard the fiberglass bondo is less prone to crack. The tradeoff is that it's also harder to sand. So when i got the base layer done, i just used regular bondo to fill in the minor differences since i was sick of sanding. So now hopefully the baselayer won't crack since that's probably most prone to flex

  2. #12
    Constant Bitrate godraj's Avatar
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    ohok that makes sense. how much does bondo go for?

  3. #13
    Raw Wave justintime's Avatar
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    Hi Dracord, nice job on the screen.

    Wanted to ask: I am planning to just fill the seams on my fabrication. Here is a pic of what my fab looks like right now.

    Just to lightly fill the seam and sand, do you think the Glazing & Spot Putty will suffice? I've never worked with any of this stuff, but I am looking for a filler that is easy to apply with some precision, and also easy to sand. The idea is for me to apply it in a similar fashion to caulking a sink with sillicone, if you know what I mean.

    2002 Honda CR-V
    Carputer progress: 90% [▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓ -]
    Spent so far: $1105.90


    Download the NEXUS Skin for Centrafuse
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  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by godraj
    ohok that makes sense. how much does bondo go for?
    ~10-15 bucks with hardener

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by justintime
    Hi Dracord, nice job on the screen.

    Wanted to ask: I am planning to just fill the seams on my fabrication. Here is a pic of what my fab looks like right now.

    Just to lightly fill the seam and sand, do you think the Glazing & Spot Putty will suffice? I've never worked with any of this stuff, but I am looking for a filler that is easy to apply with some precision, and also easy to sand. The idea is for me to apply it in a similar fashion to caulking a sink with sillicone, if you know what I mean.


    I would honestly give the fiberglass bondo or regular bondo a try. The glazing/spot putty is nice for minute divots, but i don't think it would withhold the pressure of filling the seams. I tried using it for filling in the scrapes on my wheels and it just didnt adhere too well. Maybe i didn't have the proper surface for it to stick to, but regular bondo worked like a champ.

    Bondo isn't really that hard to work with. It's all in the tools you use. In working with something like that you can apply the bondo into the seam with something small like a popsicle stick, wait like 5-10 minutes and scrape the excess off the top to minimize sanding. (at this point it has the texture of dried out dough and kind of flakes if ) use a sanding block to get a clean surface and go from low grit to high grit until the surface looks AND feels flush. I'm sure you could make up a little squeeze tube to apply to the seam like a caulking gun. However, the only difficult part about working with bondo is that you are working against the clock as soon as you mix it with the hardener.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by justintime
    Hi Dracord, nice job on the screen.

    Wanted to ask: I am planning to just fill the seams on my fabrication. Here is a pic of what my fab looks like right now.

    Just to lightly fill the seam and sand, do you think the Glazing & Spot Putty will suffice? I've never worked with any of this stuff, but I am looking for a filler that is easy to apply with some precision, and also easy to sand. The idea is for me to apply it in a similar fashion to caulking a sink with sillicone, if you know what I mean.


    I would honestly give the fiberglass bondo or regular bondo a try. The glazing/spot putty is nice for minute divots, but i don't think it would withhold the pressure of filling the seams. I tried using it for filling in the scrapes on my wheels and it just didnt adhere too well. Maybe i didn't have the proper surface for it to stick to, but regular bondo worked like a champ.

    Bondo isn't really that hard to work with. It's all in the tools you use. In working with something like that you can apply the bondo into the seam with something small like a popsicle stick, wait like 5-10 minutes and scrape the excess off the top to minimize sanding. (at this point it has the texture of dried out dough and kind of flakes if ) use a sanding block to get a clean surface and go from low grit to high grit until the surface looks AND feels flush. I'm sure you could make up a little squeeze tube to apply to the seam like a caulking gun. However, the only difficult part about working with bondo is that you are working against the clock as soon as you mix it with the hardener.

  7. #17
    Raw Wave justintime's Avatar
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    Thanks Dracord. I will follow your tips and see how it goes!
    2002 Honda CR-V
    Carputer progress: 90% [▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓ -]
    Spent so far: $1105.90


    Download the NEXUS Skin for Centrafuse
    ...or even Listen to my music

  8. #18
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    well maybe this isnt the place to ask but since im here... ive noticed alot of people with the xenarcs arent bothering to use the buttons, what exactly do the buttons do, and is their a reason for this?

  9. #19
    Raw Wave justintime's Avatar
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    You can do everything that the buttons do, using the remote control. Frankly I NEVER EVER touch the buttons or the remote. So who cares!
    2002 Honda CR-V
    Carputer progress: 90% [▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓ -]
    Spent so far: $1105.90


    Download the NEXUS Skin for Centrafuse
    ...or even Listen to my music

  10. #20
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    ah ok, and where is the remote reciever on the monitor? if that gets covered up is it going to be a big deal?

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