Complete bolt in Screen/CPU/HD/PS - indash

**AXm77** · 05-07-2007, 04:57 PM

1 – DSX12V 140W DC-DC Regulator
2 – LCD Backlight inverter
3 – AU OPTRONIC F2B LCD controller board
4 - TOUCH SCREEN controller
5 – COMMELL LS-371 motherboard. It is 3.5” SBC (footprint of 3.5” HDD), Intel 945GM chipset for Core and Core2 CPU.
LCD Screen is AUOptronic A070VW01 wit T.S.

**blk02si** · 05-07-2007, 10:33 PM

Looking well laid out and ready to run! Make sure you keep room for the cabling. One of the things i've been considering is, take a deep breath, hard-wiring the VGA connection between the m10000 and the xenarc controller board. It would involve tracing and soldering 15 wires directly to both PCBS and also hard wiring the LCD touchscreen controller to a USB header. This would clean up the 4' or so of VGA cable that is just in a coil on the side of the unit. All I need is about 5" of each wire to do this. I'm sure if solder connections were good the display would be even cleaner, crisper and brighter due to near 0% signal loss in the cabling. Would be risky as one wire in the wrong spot would mean possibly frying both the mobo and the xenarc. But on the plus side this would make for an insanely clean setup and OEM / aftermarket radio style internals.

Here is a quick sketch to help visualize what I want to accomplish.

**AXm77** · 05-07-2007, 10:45 PM

As you can see from pictures both VGA connectors are align to each other, so I thinking about something similar to SLI bridge: two male connectors on small PCB.

**blk02si** · 05-07-2007, 10:50 PM

Interesting, a PCB bridge. I really like this idea but I'm not sure where to source a connector for the xenarc board. A bridge would make servicing the parts much easier than the hardwiring, but I think hardwiring is the most efficient way to go with the least amount of signal loss.

Where did you get the

AU OPTRONIC F2B LCD controller board?

Will this run any 7" touchscreen?

I've got an extra screen laying around with a burned controller board, wonder if this would work? I like the optronic because it uses the standard VGA connector making wiring the thing much easier!

**AXm77** · 05-07-2007, 10:58 PM

I bought this as a open frame monitor (screen, controller board, backlight inverter and touch screen controller) here on this forum 3 months ago. I have no idea if it will drive different screen. If you need cable for Xenarc I have original one as a spare. I got longer one for MP3Car store for my first carputer. You can make shorter cable leaving Xenarc connector untouched and play on other side with regular connectors as they are easy to get.

**blk02si** · 05-10-2007, 10:14 PM

Well AXm I am looking at your file in solidworks right now and I can see why you love this design app. I layed out a 2d cut path drawing for the aluminum shape and want you too look it over to make sure everything is correct. This part is the challenging part of the job, "unfolding" your design to a basic flat shape. The red dashes are the 90 degree bends and the numbers are the bend sequence so the part does not become a permanent piece of the brake lol.

**AXm77** · 05-11-2007, 09:10 PM

I just looked at it and this "ears" marked black are in wrong position.

Dimension marked in yellow on first print: my opening have 4" height so I need this a bit smaller to be total 4inch with top cover.

And most important question:what will be a price for?

**diosagain** · 05-12-2007, 12:31 AM

Blko2si,

Did you do anything special to get good reception from your HQCT? Or did you just connect to your oem antenna and it was good to go? I am really getting crappy reception.

**blk02si** · 05-12-2007, 05:09 AM

Axm, I see where the file needs tweaking. I will do this in my router file. On this chassis I have to go 95 shipped due to the artwork time involved, the extra .063 aluminum for the shelf and some of the other details like the mounting holes. The smallest mill bit I like to use on .063 is a 1/8" bit. I am hoping this is not too big for the holes. I can layout the holes form your solid works sketch but from what you've corrected already it may be better for you to lay them out in 2d. I opened up the solidworks sketch again and you are right on with moving the tabs and the overall height. Let me know what you think about the price and the mounting holes.

diosagain, from what I know about my formal studies of electronics the antenna needs to be right around 50 ohms to function correctly. The also is the software variable, I am using putput's software (a HQCT software developer around here) and Im using build 43 of his software. It works really good and RDS info is quick and stable. How is your carPC coming?? I want to see some pics of the chassis I made with some PC parts bolted to it!

I made a similar "shelf" style chassis for diosagain from .063 aluminum

**diosagain** · 05-12-2007, 09:20 AM

Not a problem, I will try to take some pics today. I had to slim down the front of the case a little but I did wind up getting everything to fit. Its definitly a tight squeeze, but glad I got it in dash and wouldn't of been able to do it without your case. I know I have been really slow to post pictures, but I took my time with the install I'm really trying to get every little feature perfect. Everytime I'm about to close the thing up I run into another snag. CarPCs are definitly not for impatient people like me.

I know it looks like a mess but one man's mess is another man's masterpeice.

UPDATED WITH PICS: