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Thread: Complete bolt in Screen/CPU/HD/PS - indash

  1. #521
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    Do you have a diagram?

  2. #522
    High Voltage blk02si's Avatar
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    I ran one search on user name keyword 'overcash' and it came back with his username "jcovercash" and also a great thread he started

    http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/car-...ubwoofers.html
    Build Things, it keeps your brain busy.

    AutoPC v1 (Retired) - AutoPC v2 (in progress) - www.shocknet.us

  3. #523
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    hi blk02si, just finished reading through the thread (wow, big thread!) and just wanted to show my admiration for your work. it's good to see an artist at his craft.

    I'm just in the initial pre-planning planning stage of my first carputer build (basically just thinking about all the cool stuff I want in it! ).

    I'm actually in Ireland and have just bought a mint 1996 Jap import Mitsubishi Pajero (known as a Montero in the US due to the rather unflattering slang meaning of 'Pajero' in spanish) which actually has room for a double din sized carputer AND a 7" 16:9 touchscreen in a console in the top which current houses a 5" 4:3 touchscreen to control the jap radio satnav and tv (none of which are working properly outside of japan unfortunately) as you can see here:



    Ideally I'm thinking that one of your chassis would be ideal, but as I don't want to fit a screen to it, I'd need to have a front panel fabbed too, with which I'd planned to incorporate a slot load laptop sized dvd burner, a couple of USB ports and maybe a couple of a/v inputs and an ethernet port too. I was thinking about a volume control and the ideal solution hit me in the form of the Griffin Powermate which is a USB volume control with some custom assignments which IMHO could work very well with the likes of RR etc. for controlling the carputer whilst on the road.

    In my case at least it could be mounted permanently to the front of the case in the centre below the dvd slot.

    I was just wondering how practical you thought this might be to accomplish and if you'd previously sent any of your chassis across the pond before. I saw there was some mention of it earlier in the thread, but I didn't catch if you'd actually done it in the end or not.

    It also occurred to me that for ease of posting, it might be possible to change your design slightly to that of a flat pack type kit that could then be assembled in a few minutes with some pop rivets or small screws at it's destination. it could significantly save on packaging and possibly postage costs, depending on the final size of the package.

  4. #524
    Newbie Mr_Bape's Avatar
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    Does the Infill G4 actually fit the double din of the Mustang? Like a flush fit? I have a mustang as well but do not care for cutting into it for fear of damaging something lol.

  5. #525
    FLAC Machinehead's Avatar
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    You're kind of in the wrong place, but the Infill is a true double din sized unit. So it should fit 99% of the double din sized openings. The issue that you will run into is that you won't have enough depth to connect standard straight cables in a lot of installation situations. I have an Xterra and there's a structural member right behind the stereo. From what I've read though someone on this forum got an Infill to fit, so anything is possible.

  6. #526
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    Hey Joe,

    I'm only a carPC noob but this thread, while a bit over my head sometimes, have given me all kinds of ideas.

    I had a question about your power up/down though. You said you put the m2 into dumb mode and use a switch to just turn the PC off when you park. Why don't you just wire it to the ACC power lead instead of the +12V lead instead? Then you won't have to worry about flipping the switch on and off when you start and stop the car. If the accessory power lead in the car won't supply enough current, use the accessory lead to activate a 12V relay and you'll be good to go.

    Hope that helps.

    Paul

  7. #527
    High Voltage blk02si's Avatar
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    Hi Quality,

    I did have the power scheme controlled by the ignition for about the first year, but decided it worked better for me to just have an on/off switch. I switched over when I did the embedded OS since I can just cut the power while its on without botching the OS. It works for me since I tend to do a lot of little stops while driving and I only turn it off if I am going to be more than 30 minutes of so in a store. This way I'm not constantly turning it on off and its ready to go. Usually I leave it on the GPS screen so to passerby's it looks as though the car is being GPS tracked

    Whats nice about the via is it will run almost 8 hours with the ignition off since the power draw is so low.
    Build Things, it keeps your brain busy.

    AutoPC v1 (Retired) - AutoPC v2 (in progress) - www.shocknet.us

  8. #528
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    Ahh, that makes sense then. I've got a mini-ITX setup planned but the Gigabyte board I'm thinking of is about 9.5" square but it might still fit in the dash of my MkV Rabbit. Have you found yourself limited at all by the number of expansion slots? I'd consider the Via board but I'd hate to lose the upgradeability of the Gigabyte board. Not to mention the on-board audio on the Gigabyte is pretty good already and has a TOSlink output so I can connect my Alpine processor.

    Thanks!

  9. #529
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gla502 View Post
    When I was going through the thought process of building for some reason I always wanted to know what the back of the shaker 500 looked like so maybe some of you want the same thing........well here you go. I also attached the harness just to give people an actual picture of what you will be hooking your power supply and speakers up to if you're not going to be using a head unit.
    Im not sure if this is off topic, but gla502, was it hard to remove your passenger seat? My setup has become so massive, i have no choice but to run all the electrical wire under the seat, with the PC being mounted on the back seat and components all in the center console.
    Nirwana Project, the Android/Win 7 hybrid system!

    1X Ainol Novo Flame Tab
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  10. #530
    Low Bitrate gla502's Avatar
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    No it was not hard to remove the seat at all four simple screws (two in the front and two in the rear) and make sure you disconnect the airbag connection under the seat and your golden.

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