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Thread: Complete bolt in Screen/CPU/HD/PS - indash

  1. #541
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    Apr 2008
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    I grabbed microxp and installed that on my laptop. It's not the 12 second boot time that other people boast yet, but it gets there around 22 seconds. I'm sure I have work to do to tweak it. I'll keep reading the forums.

  2. #542
    FLAC Machinehead's Avatar
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    Try EWF with HORM, that'll get you down below 20 seconds for sure.

  3. #543
    High Voltage blk02si's Avatar
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    Just wanted to chime in since it's been a month since I made a post here - but no worries, no news is good news The pc has been running flawless and I have had no reason to mess with it other than while I'm driving for media and GPS. I cannot tell you how many times the nav has come in handy and I cannot imagine not having it now. I have begun thinking since my lease is up in 7 months what car should I get next? I was thinking about the AWD Ford Fusion since it uses the same dash kit so I could just transplant it to the new Ford

    I really like the A4 / S4 but the wife is hell bent on buying American cars and with the way things are here in Mi I cannot really disagree.
    Build Things, it keeps your brain busy.

    AutoPC v1 (Retired) - AutoPC v2 (in progress) - www.shocknet.us

  4. #544
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    Feb 2008
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    blk02si Stick with the stang!!! also to let you know i finished installing my comp in my car!! 07 stang here but i could not use the aluminium frame i got from joshovercash the xenarc's touch screen is to long to fit!!!! so if you have a lilliput the frame should work! pm me if you want it.




  5. #545
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    Mar 2008
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    To any 05-08 Mustang drivers reading this: have you installed after market speakers in your car? And if so how in the QCW$&WA did you run new wire to the speakers in your doors? Modifying the stock harnesses is not an option and I'm running out of viable ideas. Hopefully sleeping on it will help clear my addled mind.

    Finally starting on my install after roughly a year of procrastination and excuses. Decided my first step would be gutting the factory stereo and speakers and installing the new ones I bought. All of the removal went smoothly enough once I found the two hidden screws to remove my door trim and wrestled out the connectors to the radio and A/C controls. Now I cannot for the life of me figure out how I'm going to get the signal wire from my amp (under the passenger seat) into the doors to the speakers.

    For the driver side I'm thinking about taking the door completely off and just drilling new holes and being done with it. The passenger side I haven't checked out very thoroughly, but I'm not hopeful for an easy solution over there either.
    Planning: Never ends!
    Parts: Strewn about the house...
    Install: Someday soon...

  6. #546
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    Feb 2008
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    68
    look at the plugs for the speaker it should be possible to find a blade connector that will fit with out modifying the stock plugs allowing you to use a metra wiring kit to plug into the stock harness

  7. #547
    FLAC Machinehead's Avatar
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    Worst case you run brand new wires under the carpet, trim panels, etc. It's not that hard to do.

  8. #548
    Low Bitrate vtecfelon23's Avatar
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    i do have to say i love that car. and that screen fits rather nicely. ahhh jealousy

  9. #549
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    Mar 2008
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    Running wire under the carpet and trim is the easy part, that's been done since Wednesday morning. It's getting the wire from there into the door panel that is giving me fits. I can't run it through the rubber boot and hose that is in place. Access to that from the interior is really subpar and I'm about 95% certain that there is a plug from the door wiring into the actual body of the car. I haven't found any diagrams that show it, but from feeling around and poking at it for the better part of two hours I'm pretty certain that's the case. Either way the odds of me getting anything through there and successfully out the other side and not floating inside the frame are very slim.

    Using the existing harness wouldn't be difficult, the issue is the low gauge wire inside of it. If I splice in past the stock amps it's only about two feet of wire from there to the front speakers, but I really don't feel comfortable using that with an upgraded amp. The stock speakers are 50w peak so using dental floss wire is fine, but trying to run 60w RMS 160w peak speakers off of them is just asking for disaster.
    Planning: Never ends!
    Parts: Strewn about the house...
    Install: Someday soon...

  10. #550
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    Jan 2008
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    It's getting the wire from there into the door panel that is giving me fits. I can't run it through the rubber boot and hose that is in place. Access to that from the interior is really subpar and I'm about 95% certain that there is a plug from the door wiring into the actual body of the car.
    Well, I have no idea if it's as you describe or even remotely similar to my car, but... I have a Miata which had a plug between the body of the car and the door. I was able to disconnect these plugs and cut off the factory wiring from the metal pins inserted into the plastic plug housing. I then soldered new wires onto the factory pins, and reinserted them in the housing. Hey presto, better quality wiring. Admittedly, it was only one pair, but the plug body did have several spare locations, so it should be possible to get some more pins to add a second pair if you're worried about keeping a crossover inside the car. Of course, your car is probably completely different...

    Best of luck,
    Matthew.



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