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Thread: Complete bolt in Screen/CPU/HD/PS - indash

  1. #751
    Constant Bitrate Kalenth's Avatar
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    I did have some heat issues in my F150 with the 702TSV. That thing produces enough light that it gets HOT. I ended up mounting the other hardware a bit away from the screen, and no more issues. In Texas, heat CAN kill this stuff in summer.

  2. #752
    High Voltage blk02si's Avatar
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    The CCFL back light of the original Xenarc does get pretty hot. That is why I chose to mount the LCD controller PCB horizontally, 90 degrees away from the screen. The parts run cooler when separated.

    I am about ready to order a new LED backlit Xenarc or Lilli, because the LEDs are low voltage and run cool.

    The CCFL technology is high voltage, like 20kv, I had the CCFL starter circuit throw a lighting bolt into my finger while feeling the chips for warmth.
    Build Things, it keeps your brain busy.

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  3. #753
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    Sorry to Jack your thread for a sec but i have a machined Aluminum frame that i got from josh a while ago when i was building my car pc i never used it because the xenarcs touch screen glass was too long to fit into the frame. but if you blk02si or someone else needs it it would make mounting the lcd much faster the touch screen glass would have to be smaller then 4 1/4 inches wide by 6 5/8 long. it already painted black but will have to be touched up a bit. shot me a pm if if your interested

  4. #754
    High Voltage blk02si's Avatar
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    Sorry Xargon,

    I'm currently working on a Chrysler build which uses very different bezel mounting style. I am machining my own from aluminum.
    Build Things, it keeps your brain busy.

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  5. #755
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    Anyone else using the factory amps (for subs) in their 05-09 mustang with the shaker notice much worse sound when using an onboard sound card in their car pc over the stock system? I notice that the bass is not nearly as pronounced and crisp like it was before. Is this due to using onboard sound? or am I not tuning it correctly?

    Also to anyone with a 05-09 mustang, whar did you connect your antennae power to? I put mine coming from my m2atx 12v rail, but the more i think about that, the more i think it should come from either the switched power from the car or just the battery (afraid this method would drain battery).

    Thanks.

  6. #756
    High Voltage blk02si's Avatar
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    Sounds like you need to tune the audio more, you need a good line level out to your amps. Also, a lot has to do with the software you running as most players have software based equalizers that you will need to tune.

    I would not run the power antenna from the m2, any electric motor will cause interference and high draw fluctuations on the line. Use the ACC line from the OEM radio harness.

    Also, finally got a couple pics of carPC v2 for your enjoyment

    The new LED backlit lilliput which I really like. Its very slim, lightweight, nice menu options, auto on, etc and just seems very well made. I purchased it manufacturer direct.

    Also is the intel atom board which is amazingly fast paired up with a 266x read/write PNY flash module. I am a big fan of the atom after working with this board.

    The new build is also going to have HDTV, I found a 5v tuner that works well with the lilli.

    Last is the new industrial power supply I purchased/fabricated/wired for bench testing new setups. It provides 11a @ 13.5v. Yeah its a beast. Drives the m2 @ full load no problem. Just look at the caps on there! Heavy as heck though.
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  7. #757
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    Quote Originally Posted by blk02si View Post
    Sounds like you need to tune the audio more, you need a good line level out to your amps. Also, a lot has to do with the software you running as most players have software based equalizers that you will need to tune.
    What can I tune it with if all I am using is winamp inside of RR? I played with the winamp eq and even jacking the bass as much as I could, I still couldn't get that same thump that I got from the stock headunit.

    Quote Originally Posted by blk02si View Post
    I would not run the power antenna from the m2, any electric motor will cause interference and high draw fluctuations on the line. Use the ACC line from the OEM radio harness.
    Is the ACC line the switched power line that turns on with the battery? And just to double check since I lost my key to my harness, the blue line is the antenna power correct?

    Thanks man, you have been such a giant help in this entire process of mine, and the case is still rocking hard. Take care!

  8. #758
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    Since there seems to be a good deal of mustang users in this thread, does everyone that uses a radio still get about the same reception? Mine seems to have gone down a little and now has a little bit of static on the channels that are further away yet still used to come in fine.

  9. #759
    Low Bitrate TxAxZxZ's Avatar
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    Blk,

    Do you think that Intel Atom board will fit into the JKPC? I've been eye-balling this guy ( http://www.logicsupply.com/products/nc92_330_lf ). I just don't know if it supports dual monitors. My goal is to play movies (using headphones) on the back monitor while I listen to music on the main monitor. I'm not exactly sure what verbage to call that, but that's my goal. I'm also installing the rear sensors/backup camera soon so I need plenty more pc power for all this. You know anyone interested in the Pico-ITX PX10000G?
    JeepTablet Project
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  10. #760
    High Voltage blk02si's Avatar
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    The reception is all about the right antenna. I'm still messing with my visteon HD unit and it sounds about the same. Are your amp grounds and PC grounds the same?

    - Hey Patrick! Good to see you on the boards! A ITX will fit in the chassis, on the top, just got to make sure the jeep has room for the cabling. The m3 will be fine with that setup too. How much do you want for the Pico? That's a sweet little board!
    Build Things, it keeps your brain busy.

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