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Thread: Looking for advice on how to cut/stretch vinyl for finishing

  1. #1
    Newbie nazerine's Avatar
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    Looking for advice on how to cut/stretch vinyl for finishing

    Hi. This is my first post on mp3car.com. I have found this website ever so useful in the last few weeks since I bought a new vehicle. Its a 96 jeep grand cherokee, and I have almost finished building a mdf/fibreglass box for it very similar to the jeep gc stealthbox made by JL.

    So I have built a box to house a 12" sub (Pioneer TS-W3004SPL), along with a recessed amp rack space. Both are reccessed 1-1/4" to prevent anything in the back from easily damaging them.

    My big question now, is once I have finished all my sanding of the box, how do I go about getting nice seams/folds into the recess with the vinyl ?

    For the circle, is there a special way to cut it? ie; cut it in an X shape? cut a smaller diameter circle from the centre, then use a heat gun to really stretch it the into the recess ?

    I can post pictures if you want to see exactly what I want to cover.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Maximum Bitrate Naamanf's Avatar
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    Picture might helpt. The key is getting a good vinyl that stretches in all the directions you want. Then it comes down to taking you time. Good glue also helps.
    2007 Tahoe
    Opus with iBase 896 and Pentium M 735 Transflective Xenarc Alpine DVA-9861, PXA-H900, Sinfoni 45X2 (2) 90x2, Genesis Dual Mono, JL 1000/1 (2), Focal Be tweeters, ScanSpeak Revelator Mids, Dynaudio MW170, Dayton 12" Ref.

    My Install

  3. #3
    It's not really that small...No, seriously. judoGTI's Avatar
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    Yeah get some pics and that will help a lot.
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  4. #4
    Low Bitrate
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    Pics would be helpfull but yes use a good quality vinyl a heat gun and really alot of times two people is nice to really stretch the vinyl after the contact cement has been sprayed on it and the piece then lay it down on the piece to be covered. For the countours and stuff like recessed mounting rings there's like an curved aluminum tool Select sells that i've used in the past that works great.

    As for the circle usually i'll trim it out then make lot of slits not just two like in an 'x' as they're folded over the inside of the ring and to the underside of the panel but you have the right idea.

  5. #5
    Maximum Bitrate Yevmeister's Avatar
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    make sure you get marine vynil, with the foam backing, you can remove foam with mek (methyk, ethyl,ketone), or acetone, then you will have a thick piece of vynil, with the heat gun you can strecth it 400% all directions

    Yev
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  6. #6
    Newbie nazerine's Avatar
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    Woah, I am suprised by the amount of responsed in such little time!

    Ok, as for the type of vinyl. It is a marine grade vinyl, about 3/16" thick .. it is very stretchy with no heat already.

    I took some pictures just now, I don't have the best camera (sony 1.3mp camera, 7 years old now!). So, before anyone says it, yes I know I need more screws for holding the rings in, but I could not find any glue (weldbond) last night. There is extra holes on the sub mounting ring, as I made a slight miscalculation of the alignment of the holes :P .. I saw in another post by Red GTi VR6 using t-nuts to hold the sub down, so on the back there are some 1/4" t-nuts hammer and glued in!

    Another question I wasn't sure about.. For the amp area, I was going to leave it 90^ corners, as I don't see it being too much of a challenge to form the vinyl in a square ... But for the sub, should I perhaps round the corner down with my router? I was unsure if doing so would create even more ... wrinkles ?

    Thanks!
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  7. #7
    Maximum Bitrate Naamanf's Avatar
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    I would use a 1/4" roundover bit to give a smooth transition. Shouldn't be that hard as long as it's a good vinyl. Take your time getting all the edges pressed down. Find a blunt object that you can use to press the edges down into the corners. You might want to test out your technique on some scrap wood to figure out what works. Use good glue. It's also nice to have some fresh razor blades and a X-acto at the ready. As soon as the blade seems like it's getting dull, trash it.
    2007 Tahoe
    Opus with iBase 896 and Pentium M 735 Transflective Xenarc Alpine DVA-9861, PXA-H900, Sinfoni 45X2 (2) 90x2, Genesis Dual Mono, JL 1000/1 (2), Focal Be tweeters, ScanSpeak Revelator Mids, Dynaudio MW170, Dayton 12" Ref.

    My Install

  8. #8
    Maximum Bitrate Naamanf's Avatar
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    Talking

    What's up with all the damm holes?
    2007 Tahoe
    Opus with iBase 896 and Pentium M 735 Transflective Xenarc Alpine DVA-9861, PXA-H900, Sinfoni 45X2 (2) 90x2, Genesis Dual Mono, JL 1000/1 (2), Focal Be tweeters, ScanSpeak Revelator Mids, Dynaudio MW170, Dayton 12" Ref.

    My Install

  9. #9
    Newbie nazerine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naamanf View Post
    What's up with all the damm holes?
    Haha, yeah ... I made the mdf rings, laid out with the holes, and where to cut .. I drilled two (top and bottom), then it suddenly struck that the top hole on the sub doesn't align to 12 O'Clock ... Don't ask ... they're only through one ring, but have been filled with resin as of now....

    I have two cans of 3M #77 contact cement, which I have heard will do the trick.

    I guess a heat gun, and some practice I can get it to look nice! :P I hope it turns out well. I just finished fleecing and glassing the last opening (the top) .. Its about 37C outside here, so each coat of resin and mat is just flashing in about 10 minutes

  10. #10
    Maximum Bitrate Naamanf's Avatar
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    I have used the #77 before and it isn't the best. It doesn't hold up to the heat to well. It shoudn't matter for what your doing though. I have been using the glue that Raamat sells and it works pretty good.
    2007 Tahoe
    Opus with iBase 896 and Pentium M 735 Transflective Xenarc Alpine DVA-9861, PXA-H900, Sinfoni 45X2 (2) 90x2, Genesis Dual Mono, JL 1000/1 (2), Focal Be tweeters, ScanSpeak Revelator Mids, Dynaudio MW170, Dayton 12" Ref.

    My Install

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