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Thread: how to: make a factory bezel

  1. #101
    Who am I? HiJackZX1's Avatar
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    Is there any way I can hire you to do my dash?????????
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  2. #102
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    Do you use Dynatron for ABS stuff? Here is what I do. I have lilliput housing and I need to make bezel for 2din opening (there is no kit for my car) I tried dynatron on ABS before and it was peeling off. So, I'm hesitant trying to build up around lilliput housing with it. Should I use ABS goop? What do you suggest?

  3. #103
    Super Moderator. If my typing sucks it's probably because I'm driving.... turbocad6's Avatar
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    the new lilliput housings suck, there a hard plastic that is trouble to stick too. I'm doing one right now, to a very flexible & thin bezel. I'm having to actually rienforce the assy with aluminum wire mesh... heres a few shots, I'll put more info tommorow....
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  4. #104
    Super Moderator. If my typing sucks it's probably because I'm driving.... turbocad6's Avatar
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    this is all welding so far... the mesh is a very fine aluminum, it embeds the plasic & is super strong as a bond, it's as if it was cast into the plastic mold, it is very strong as far as bonding goes...
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  5. #105
    Maximum Bitrate sporty_drew's Avatar
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    Very neat trick with the mesh.
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  6. #106
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    one of the best tutorials I've ever read!

    Thanks man and nice work!

    -Nate

  7. #107
    Super Moderator. If my typing sucks it's probably because I'm driving.... turbocad6's Avatar
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    thanks, hope it helped some guys...

    this mesh is a really nice technique, it's like fiberglass in the respect that the end result is much stronger than either component by itself. if you force it through the mesh it works like resin soaking through mat...

    these new liliput bezels really suck for fabrication... there like a white clear plastic really... not very compatable with anything like most dash bezels. one thing that causes a lot of adhesion problems is not sanding well enough, or rather,not rough enough... you don't want some wimpy 120 or 180 sanding here on the larger areas to grab, rough it up good & deep, 40 grit maximum, this increases the effective surface area many times over & goes a long way in helping adheision... the areas that I don't want it to stick too I don't sand...
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  8. #108
    Super Moderator. If my typing sucks it's probably because I'm driving.... turbocad6's Avatar
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    rough cut it with 40 grit but then let it get hard to sand closer... if you sand too much before it really cures then it just peels off, when it fully cures it has better bite. I used an exacto knife to remove the tape or I could have peeled the whole thing apart at this stage of it being fresh & not fully cured.
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  9. #109
    Constant Bitrate Nermin's Avatar
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    dude, you amaze everybody everytime you post/try something new - I take my hat to you for awesomness of your work and will to teach everyone on the forum

    I'm waiting for Dynatron 660 to arrive and I cant wait to try some of your work myself, thanks again and keep doing excellent work
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  10. #110
    Super Moderator. If my typing sucks it's probably because I'm driving.... turbocad6's Avatar
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    thanks

    ok, this is after curing 48 hours & then shaping. anything that is loose or not 100% adhesion should be removed. there are 2 types of adhesion in fabrication, one is structural & the other is finish. this structural stage has to be really strong, I can twist this pretty hard at this stage & everything is bonded very well. you can see the left side & lower part of the screen is sanded all the way to the aluminum mesh... the mesh itself is the bond between the 2 & it is strong.

    once the structural is good then comes finish coat. of course you do want a good bond with finish coat too, but if the structures not solid then the finish is useless, if you have anything peeling or not strong bond then you have to remove it & fix it & not just try to cover it up with another layer... that will lead to cracks & failures later on.

    these pictures are the first 1 coat, cured &then shaped, the white plastic around the screen opening is the Lilli bezel. it is very hard to bond too yet this thing is bonded very strong & solid, this mesh is nice to work with...
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