how to: make a factory bezel

**rdholtz** · 10-20-2008, 05:11 PM

I know you can get stainless steel mesh at Urethane Supply in single sheets or ten-packs (larger quantities are available, too). To find all their mesh stuff, go to Urethane Supply and go to their MENU on the left, click on Search the Store, and search for mesh.

I bought the KC Welder Pro from them to plastic weld my polyethylene bezel, and it comes with some mesh. The welding takes a little getting used to, but I like the welder a lot.

There are some good tutorials on their site, also.

**Minoritydan** · 10-20-2008, 09:48 PM

Thanks for the links man! That Welder pro kit looks like just what I am looking for to get me started!

Did you buy any of their epoxy products to do what was discussed in this thread, for filling in the gaps and reinforcing with the mesh/epoxy mix?

**rdholtz** · 10-20-2008, 10:53 PM

Originally Posted by Minoritydan

Did you buy any of their epoxy products to do what was discussed in this thread, for filling in the gaps and reinforcing with the mesh/epoxy mix?

No, I didn't buy anything else. Epoxy and polyethylene don't bond, so all my work has been in polyethylene alone. Before I bought the welder, I called Urethane Supply, explained what I was doing, and asked their advice. They were clear, thorough, and spot on. After that conversation, I wouldn't have bought from anyone else, even if the other guys had been cheaper.

I use the mesh by pressing it into the joint while it's molten. The welding process does take some getting used to, so plan to practice for a while. When your joints are good and strong, and you're comfortable, go to work on the parts you're making.

Be aware that you'll have to do this outside -- the fumes are toxic. But a good fan or two (I use two) will carry the smoke away from you.

The results with the KC Welder Pro have been very good, once I got away from making half-a$$ed joints that weren't heated all the way through. Cold joints break with flexure, but good hot joints seem as strong as the parent material. I've even been able make a relatively smooth face on the areas to reduce the amount of sanding and filling that will be required.

You can see from turbocad6's work that plastic welding can produce quite professional results. I guess that makes good sense, since he's a professional. He gives us -- the amateurs -- something to shoot for.

**lastlittlelife** · 01-13-2009, 08:01 AM

I came across the Dynatron 660 Bumper Repair Kit on sale for $20.96.

http://yhst-13811118617756.stores.ya...flburekit.html

**locs4dayz** · 09-27-2009, 12:33 PM

Can I use this stuff to customize my existing bezel, or do I need to fiberglass instead? I have a 1999 300M. I plan to move the climate controls down to the bottom above the astray, then move the factory radio down a little in order to make enough room to install a 7" monitor...Thanks in advance!!! This is my first install, but I'm crafty with the tools, so I'm sure I can pull it off. Want a factory look when complete!

**turbocad6** · 09-28-2009, 01:05 AM

as long as it's cleaned & prepped well it should, the most problem plastics can sometimes need an adhiesion promoter, but just clean dry & roughed up well it should be fine really

**Ringfinger69** · 02-11-2010, 04:36 PM

correct me if I am wrong. can this process be used if I want to make the screen housing blend into the whole dash board. Gap / edge free is what I want to accomplish. I currently have a screen installed and I wanna change how it looks.
Thanks for any help that anyone can provide

Charles

**Adilson** · 02-14-2011, 01:29 PM

(about the pics, they are fixed now).

Great post - loved the images, great tutorial!

The hardest part of doing such things here (in Brazil) is to find the material - not everything is easily available (like it seems to be in USA) :/

**Jason Woram** · 03-21-2011, 12:48 PM

Originally Posted by turbocad6

it's the lcd from a fujitsu tablet that actually is my whole carpc...

there are many sources for a 10.4" lcd really...

This is a awesome install i was thinking of installing a carpc in my car and was woundering is the tablet you used the only thign u used or has the window in stalled or is there more to it and do you have any other sites i can lookon to get more info on what all is needed to get a car pc with windows working in a car , keep up the good work and thanks in advance for any info you have

**Willn** · 03-21-2012, 09:57 AM

Do you guys know what would replace the dynatron product? It has been discontinued. I need something similar because I already started with it and I need the hard base to do some more molding. I have the 3m 5895 stuff, but like Turbo said it wasn't as hard so not as good of a base.