Thread: I tried to install my Lilliput today...looks horrible! I need help!

I just got the epoxy/filler/glazing putty and am ready to fill in these gaps. I held off on the paint thought because I was wondering...instead of priming/painting it can I just use the spray paint that's sold for cars? I saw one made by duricolor for import cars and it had a picture of my car on the can heh. Is there any reason not to just spray this stuff onto the bezel after I'm done with all the sanding?

at the very least you should use a primer. it's the "glue" that helps improve your surface quality and makes the paint stick. If you're really having problems with the paint sticking, you can use Bulldog adhesion promoter. That stuff is nasty but man it works... Also, once you do get your paint color on, i'd definitely recommend hitting it with a few layers of clear or satin clearcoat. Not all at once, but just build it up so you've got something protecting your paint from fingers, grease, oil, water... whatever. it's not expensive but it helps.

thanks man. I'll definitely look into the clearcoat. what kind of paint would you recommend using on the bezel though? I'm about to go work the epoxy in now. I'll post some more pics so I can get more feedback on what I'm doing right or wrong.

soooo I just stuffed the epoxy into the gaps but I dunno if I did it correctly cuz I've never used the stuff before. I took a pic for some feedback I'm guessing the only thing I could've done better was to put some tape over the IR sensor window and button holes...but I didn't think of that until afterwards

for paint, you've got lots of choices, and which you choose will depend on your budget and comfort level with each kind. I'll give you a short rundown from most expensive (and best imo) to the quickest and dirtiest:

1. Urethane bc/cc. This is what your car is painted with. Can be matched to any color you like, including your car's exterior. This is the most toxic and difficult to apply, but as you can imagine gives you that show-car finish. Adheres extremely well to plastics and exhibits good flexibility. Durability is top flight.

2. Lacquer bc/cc. Specifically Sherwin-William's Opex production lacquers. Not as expensive as urethane systems, but are available in pre-catalyzed and catalyzed variations, as well as evaporative curing paints. These can give you a finish quality on par with the urethane systems, but lack the tough-as-nails durability. More importantly, the evaporative curing lacquers are a single stage type paint which means you don't have to worry about mixing anything.

3. SEM brand trim paint. These come in spray cans and need only a basic primer. This is very popular in the carPC community because it is very simple and straightforward to use, and also comes in a textured variety which may enable you to match an OEM finish on a plastic part more accurately. It depends on the look you're going for, but this is a very viable option.

4. The Krylon/Duplicolor paintjob: I wouldn't recommend this unless you're absolutely strapped for cash or just can't handle paint fumes. You pretty much get the idea here. Just spray it on. Downsides are poor durability, sometimes poor adhesion (it can start flaking off around the edges), poor gloss (some areas appear matte while others gloss, but if you're doing flat color then it's not as much of a problem). The single worst thing in my opinion about rattle-can paint is their workability. If you get a run or need to sand again, it's going to gum up your sandpaper like nothing else. Urethanes and Lacquers sand like talc powder and are extremely easy to work post-curing.


Regardless of which way you go, no paint will look good if you don't prep your surface right. That means no pinholes, sanding, wet sanding until you have removed all your sanding marks... no surface scratches. Every minute you put in here will save you hours on the paint end.


(btw, bc = base coat, cc = clear coat)

geeeez man you seem to know your paints and I really appreciate your help I'm finishing up with the glazing spot putty right now and leaving the painting for tomorrow. I'll post some pics after I'm done with the spot puttying. Just another quick question about painting this thing...should I repaint the entire bezel? Or is it ok to just paint the areas that I've worked on (with the assumption that I've found a matching paint)?

even the closest matches are rarely exact. I think you'd be happier with the finished part if you just repainted the whole bezel. Just make sure you use a primer on the whole thing and sand it smooth before you paint just so you don't have any textural differences showing through.

what should I use to apply the paint with? I figure a paint brush would probably leave brush strokes or somethin unless there are brushes with insanely fine hairs. I can't think of many ways to paint it that would make it go on very evenly.

again, depends on the paint. Urethanes i would never brush on... they just flash off too quickly. Lacquer paints you can introduce a retarder/thinner to make them brushable. Deft sells a clear brushable lacquer at lowes/home depot. If you're going to brush on that Opex lacquer, Sherwin R7K27 reducer should give you a shot at that, just mix 1:1. Bottom line, if you're going to brush paint on, make sure it dries slowly enough that it has a chance to self-level and allow the brush strokes to come out. Otherwise you will have brush lines. My advice to you would be to invest in a small compressor/spray gun. Few things if any rival the quality of a well-sprayed finish.

I use a gun similar to this, but not as nice and i can get great results.
http://www.amazon.com/Vaper-HVLP-Gra.../dp/B0002JN38A

This kit is what I bought. It's so inexpensive and you get three guns that are perfect for any size job from painting a bezel to painting a car.
http://www.amazon.com/Vaper-Piece-Tr...936058?ie=UTF8