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Thread: preping the car

  1. #1
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    preping the car

    Hey everyone hows things? well just started preping my car for a paint job. not exactly sure in what im doing but went ahead with it anyways. just wanted to know if im doing things right so far? let me know if u think otherwise. firstly sanded back the shiny coat with 800grit sand paper making sure that it was shiny no more then coated the whole car with primer. after primer i found that i had a few chips in the paint so sanded back where i had the problems. used gap filler putty to fill up all the little wholes. then sanded them back smooth and made sure everything was even. then primed over it again. after doing that i sanded it all back with 1200 grit. now its smooth as a babies bottom. i have pix but dont no how to post not that it would make a diffrence seeing that u cant see anything diffrent in a picture. let me know if im doing anything wrong. thanx guys. btw pix are available on request so if ur intrested let me know.

  2. #2
    Maximum Bitrate GoHybrid's Avatar
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    well... kinda wrong forum for this, but for the sake of academics let's delve into it. First of all, what is your car body made of? is it steel or aluminum? or is it fiberglass? That will have an impact to some degree on the correct finishing process.

    An important thing to remember in your case is that the paint's bond is only as good as the bond of the layer below it. So if you've got paint chips coming up, i'd question the integrity of your previous paint job.

    If it were my car and i were wanting to do it right, i'd start sanding the paint with a much coarser paper. Usually I sand with 220. This removes much more of the old material and provides more "tooth" for following coats to stick to. If the car is steel or aluminum you might just want to get it media blasted so you have fresh metal to work with.

    Once you've gotten to your bare surface or as far as you dare go to the substrate, you need to prime correctly. for metal bodies this usually means an etching primer, followed by a primer/surfacer. The etching primer creates an excellent interface between metal and paint. Primer surfacer is the good stuff that sands off like talc powder and gives you that smoothness.

    One other thing that's extremely important is surface cleanliness. Always use gloves so your finger oils don't get on the surface, and always use a surface prep cleaner. Use paper towels, and clean the areas you're going to spray next until nothing else is coming away on your towel. Having learned this the hard way, if you've got oil (say, from an air tool) or silicone or any surface contaminants you will quickly discover what a pain in the *** it becomes when your clearcoat starts to fisheye and suddenly you've got to wipe it all off and reapply everything.

    So back to finishing, once you've sprayed your primer/surfacer, you really only need to go to 600 grit. A good bc/cc will fill that nicely. So unless you're going under a computer-eye for paint inspection, 600 grit wet sanding is as high as you really need to go for primer. I'm sure you're doing this already but make sure you use a big long sanding block so you don't put any waves into the primer. Wet sanding helps in this way because you can see the way the light reflects off the surface you've created.

    when you've got everything properly primed, depending on the level of your technique, you could spray bc/cc and not have to touch the car again. If you do get orange peel (the result of clearcoat sagging slightly on vertical surfaces) you can sand that off with 1200-2000 and buff it back to a shine.

    Hope that helps. What color are you thinking about shooting?
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  3. #3
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    Thanx for that damn fine explanation!!! so far what ive done is gone over with 800 grit. Ive been over the surface many times so i dont think ill have a problem. "I HOPE????". Ive been over with the primer one coat and sanded it back down with 800 and sprayed another coat over that with primer. After doing this ive sanded over it with 1200 grit so i get a nice shiny surface. Well thats about it to tell u the truth. Im hiring an oven and paying someone to spray the car for me. Not that sure about what color im going though. Maybe a bright green or dark purple. I still have abit of time to decide on that. Btw im aware of posting in the wrong forum "sorry" but couldnt find any other place to ask the question. Just thought this was the only suitable place on this forum. but thanx again for ur help. I'll post pix up in the next few weeks to show what ive done.

  4. #4
    Maximum Bitrate GoHybrid's Avatar
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    that's okay. my point was simply that this forum is really focused towards the integration of pc's into cars. Fabrication forum is to aid in achieving that end. Painting your car, while technically a fabrication related process isn't related to installation of a carPC. That's why i made the comment.

    Just FYI, i don't care where or what anyone posts, I'm happy to answer any questions i know the answer to, but other people tend to get a little cranky about misplaced threads.
    Et ipsa scientia potestas est.

    Worklog for my 2007 Civic Si ...f*** it...
    Pictures of the Corolla (retired)here
    Need to make something? Here are a few ideas.

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    Phillie Escalade182's Avatar
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    do you think it might be alright to paint a car in a garage with good output-ventalation? I always want to do everything myself so it would hurt me to pay someone else to do something that I have the tools to do. I think you did a great job of explaining the process, however.

    its well appretiated. thank you.

  6. #6
    MySQL Error scott_fx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Escalade182 View Post
    do you think it might be alright to paint a car in a garage with good output-ventalation? I always want to do everything myself so it would hurt me to pay someone else to do something that I have the tools to do. I think you did a great job of explaining the process, however.

    its well appretiated. thank you.
    my old paint and body guy in MA used to paint out of his garage. The quality of his paint jobs were amazing. All of the guys in the car club i used to 'roll' with back then were envious of his work (won a 1st place trophy in a NY 'hot import daze' show too). so yeah... it's doable
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  7. #7
    Super Moderator. If my typing sucks it's probably because I'm driving.... turbocad6's Avatar
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    gohybrids explination is right on spot... if you wetsanded your car with 1200 before paint, your paint will chip & peel MUCH easier than it should... you should go over the vehice right before paint with like a 600, the paintjob will be much more durable & chip resistant

  8. #8
    Maximum Bitrate GoHybrid's Avatar
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    the trickiest thing about painting in a garage is just dust /particle/bug control.

    I've heard that grounding your car (like, connecting a wire between the ground on an electrical outlet and your chassis) can help control the static charges that attract dust.

    Contrary to what some old painters will tell you, wetting down the whole floor is NOT a good idea. High humidity can severely affect the cure of urethane paints.

    For some reason, bugs.... mosquitos, gnats, flies.... they all LOVE solvents and will not hesitate to sit on your paint for a spell... until they die like instantly from the fumes and suddenly you've got to pick them out... *ew*. I don't know what works best here, but if you're in a buggy area, set up nets or zappers or whatever tricks you've got to keep them out.

    I do most of my painting in a garage. My projects are pretty small, but i don't see why given proper preparation you couldn't do any paint job in there.
    Et ipsa scientia potestas est.

    Worklog for my 2007 Civic Si ...f*** it...
    Pictures of the Corolla (retired)here
    Need to make something? Here are a few ideas.

  9. #9
    Phillie Escalade182's Avatar
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    outside on a huge-*** tarp is a definite no-no. correct? lol...


    but million dollar boat builders do that sometimes while the boats sitting in the water... I've seen it done professionally by makers such as Ricky Scarborough...

  10. #10
    Maximum Bitrate GoHybrid's Avatar
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    paint systems for boats are a little different than paint systems for cars. They're typically rated higher against UV, salt spray, etc... mostly epoxies.

    As far as your car goes it really depends on the environment. If it's 70-80 degrees, low humidity, zero wind, then i'd say spray away. But typically conditions outside are less than ideal. Not to mention if a breeze does happen to pass by, it's taking all that dust into your paint, and all your paint into your neighbor's yard... and nobody wins there.
    Et ipsa scientia potestas est.

    Worklog for my 2007 Civic Si ...f*** it...
    Pictures of the Corolla (retired)here
    Need to make something? Here are a few ideas.

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