Thread: How To Relocate Climate Controls on the 97-02 F-body Cars

I finally received my cable back. It looks great and works pretty well. As soon as I get some pictures I will post them up.

Man, took them long enough.

This reminds me, here is my idea for relocating the controls to the center console. There is an ashtray and a cup holder here, neither of which I use.

Originally Posted by 00ss99v6driver

just wondering if u have ur cutout wired to an actual convertible switch or if its to the switch that came with the cut out. i have a 3" cut out from qtp and i want to wire it straight to the convertible switch. i was wondering if u knew how to do that and if u did u would explain to me. thanks brandon

This is a little off topic, but OK.
QTP just uses a basic toggle switch. I bought a convertible switch as well as the dual switch plate to mount it in. Wiring is not that hard. 1 wire is the positive for the light and the other 4 are for the power and ground which the switch can reverse the polarity on. I also added an inline fuse holder between the molex and the switch.

I soldered the wires to the contacts on the back of the switch and added some hot glue to keep them from wiggling. I also ran both switches through a molex connector so I could remove the whole thing if I need to work on it or remove the console.



I did a write up over on LS1tech.com along with the wiring diagram, but I can't find it for the life of me. It was several years back so it may have been on LS1.com back before the big crash. I still have all the info at home, though. I'll post up some more info tommorrow.

Also note that the connector on the cutout that locks together is pretty crappy. I had to resolder the connections about every 6 months. Having to solder a connection under a car sucks. I finally just cut it off and used twist on connectors. Insulated bullet connectors would be good as well.

Pretend that you already have a convertible top harness installed in the car, and the plug is just sitting there without the switch connected. Take the connector and orient it so that the locking tab is on top, and the plug is facing you. With this pictured in your mind, this is the connections of that plug:

TAB
H G F E

A B C D

H = Ground
G = Empty (not used)
F = Power (12v)
E = Up (+) Cutout (open)
A = Down (-) Cutout (close)
B = Lamp (+)
C = Lamp (-)
D = Ground

There are two grounds. In order for the switch to reverse the polarities for the up/down (+/-) to open and close the cutout, connector "H" and "D" have to be jumped together to the ground on the vehicle.

Holding the actual switch in your hand, it will be upside down so the locking tab part will be oriented on top. This should help you figure out what pin is what on the switch, use pin "G" as a guide.

Since I soldered the wires directly to the tabs on the back of the switch, you have to flip the diagram over, like this.

TAB
E F G H

D C B A

H = Ground
G = Empty (not used)
F = Power (12v)
E = Up (+) Cutout (open)
A = Down (-) Cutout (close)
B = Lamp (+)
C = Lamp (-)
D = Ground

B and C are interchangable for the light, so they don't matter. This switch is a basic reverse polarity unit. When you press one direction, A becomes + and E becomes -. Press the other way and A becomes - and E becomes +. Get it?