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Thread: First Time Fab - 2003 Ford Explorer - Please help! - A lot of pictures...

  1. #11
    Constant Bitrate diosagain's Avatar
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    I am going to start the next layer of Bondo in about 20 minutes. I finally got my motherboard today and decided to just build the computer. Well, at least get it up and running. I used the new Jetway 2Ghz Via mini-atx, with a gig of 533mhz ram, and a a 60 gig 2.5 7200rpm drive. I am still waiting for my M2-ATX psu, CF to ide, and my pcmcia daughter board; but other then that I can at least load windows and RR to get it going. I also want to put a DVD slim slot usb drive somewhere in the car just haven't figured out where just yet. Oh and I also need USB extensions. This **** never seems to end. I am also waiting on a custom indash case from Joe.

    Complete bolt in Screen/CPU/HD/PS - indash

    Here is a picture of the mess of a computer I have on my table. My girlfriend wants to kill me as I have now turned our dining room table into a work bench.


    Screen still works after the dismantle. I was happy to see this.


    Off to bondo and sand.

  2. #12
    Constant Bitrate diosagain's Avatar
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    OK, well I had time to take some pictures today. I must say fabricating is not the least bit fun, but I have definitely learned a lot. I started off bondoing in my house where its warm and felt like I was racing the clock with this stuff. It was drying so damn fast. So I moved it out into the garage and its definitely better there. It took twice as long to dry and I actually felt like for the first time I could use that SQUEEGEE technique. Its starting to look good, but there is a lot more sanding before its ready for priming and painting. Although, I do finally see a little light at the end of the tunnel. I really don't know why I even bothered taping the whole thing off. I guess I was trying to save that factory silver carbon fiber look, but I realize there is just no way. So I started sanding the whole thing down. This way I can just make the entire thing one piece. It will come out much better if I just have to prime and paint the whole thing as one. I hope that this thread helps someone in the future or that someone actually reads this. Anyway here are the pictures:



  3. #13
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    also, I wouldn't try to sand the bondo to a paintable finish. Definently get some glazing putty to smooth it out.

  4. #14
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    WoW, ok first thing , did you sand all the areas where you applied body filler?
    if not it is probably going to crack off. next time you fab a piece try assembling your pieces together with some type of plastic weld material or epoxy
    that is for plastics, you can find them at a local body shop, also your dash piece is flaxible (semi-rigid) body filler isnot, and the thicker you make the less it is, body filler is britle, try next time to use a plastic bumber repair material, it only comes in smaller tubes but its flexural properties are more correct. and always sand everything your going to use first, or it has nothing to adhere to, fillers arent glues.

  5. #15
    Constant Bitrate diosagain's Avatar
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    Houdini,

    What is the name of that bumper material? What do you suggest I do at this point? Do I just continue with the lightweight bondo or do I add Fiberglass Resin Jelly over this?

  6. #16
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    At this point I would just keep indoing what youve done, If it fails then sand it all down and sart over, as fas as bumper repair there are several types ask your local shop what they carry.

  7. #17
    Maximum Bitrate david69leonard's Avatar
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    the only bad thing about just using bondo, is that it tends to crack, especially during the summer heat. What i would suggest is fiberglassing over what you have done so far, sand it down as smooth as you can get it and applying a very thin layer of bondo over top of that to make it extra smooth for painting. You can also use some extra reinforcement on the back side of your bezel, fiberglass resin or bondo will work nicely...

  8. #18
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    you cant really just fiberglass over the bondo, it will make the dash piece thick also fiberglass mat has a tendency to delaminate sometimes when applied this way. Also the main problem is the substructure was not prepped for anything, so it still might crackaway.if you want the least amount of pain and the best looking piece just start over, sand down the entire piece get some plastic prep, check out SEM or Evercoat or plastic repair materials, and flexible primers, SEM also has a texture coat, and color coats.

  9. #19
    Maximum Bitrate david69leonard's Avatar
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    they also sell a silver dashpaint at O'Reily's that would look good once you get a smooth surface to paint on, I used it on the dash and door panels in my eclipse over a year ago and it hasnt chipped faded or cracked at all.

  10. #20
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    Or if you want to get really crazy.
    http://www.alsacorp.com/products/fan...y_prodinfo.htm

    thermoform sheeting for your dash, like you originally had.

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