god bless Ol' Skool
Meakin, you are far from correct. I've been building (as well as many others) COMPLETE fiberglass sub enclosures for years (I got my MECP certification back in 93).
Making unfounded statements on the internet is why many consider the WWW a bad place to research.
Just for shyts_N_giggles..................
Pictures of my COMPLETE fiberglass enclosure inside my Mustang
141 db with nothing but a trio of Kicker 10's powered by an Ole School Orion High Current 250.
god bless Ol' Skool
MobileThree: in car - Zotac Atom/ION - linuxICE 2.0.2
LOL, aint that the truth!
I'm putting an Ole SKool Punch 75 and 200ix into my GTO as part of the Carputer install.
I just haven't been impressed with much of the new amplification choices of today.
I guess I'm just old. I still believe a 150 watt amp should put out 2.5X the advertised power! You know, like they did in the late 80's early 90's (the Golden years of car audio!)
MMALEXANDER, that my friend is an HCCA?? NICE! Excellent, excellent amp!!
To the poster who said that fiberglass isn't a good material to use for enclosures... I sincerely would like to hear your explaination for this. What is it that makes fiberglass a poor choice?
It's not that fiberglass is a poor choice.
You just have to make it of sufficient thickness and/or brace it to prevent flexing of the "box". I usually use damping material (acoustic fill) to help out a fiberglass box.
Otherwise, fiberglass is a perfectly fine choice.
In some cases, it's the only choice due to shape and space limitations.
HCCA High Current Competition (cheater) Amp. 1/4 ohm stable. It's been running 2 ohm bridged (1 ohm seen per channel) for YEARS. Nary a hiccup the first. Definitely an over built amp (we used to build comp systems with the HCCA 50 on the rgular). 1/4 ohm stable back in the 90s just rediculous!
The young whipper snappers of today, have no idea what real amplification is/was about!
Wait, check it out, this idiot thinks he can compete with a 250w amp....WTF??
I always resented the "cheater" title though, they were more or less DAMN good amps. IF Orion and PPI could make amps that could play for days at less than 1ohm what's cheating about that - its build quality and superior circuitry especially as you said, in the 90s!. Grandted they rated it at 4ohm (I think PPI even tried rating one of their models 50x2@8 HAHA). The only difference between what HIFONICS and others claim their amps can do and what ORIAN 250HCCAs COULD do is a bolt of lightning .
Another old school amp series, not as well known and not known for playing quite that low was the ZR series from kicker. Those amps were absolutely awsome!! Aesthetically and performance wise. YOu could use a center link and put them together, making one really long amp. The ZR600 alone could POUND a pair of first gen solobarics. The ZRS could play low and all day long. Built as one large cast heat sink, they really held up under duress and they sounded good clean and loud.
For example: My old 7G galant had two rockford fosgate 1000 watt amps (continuous not max, when lightning strikes...) into two Pioneer competition DB subs (tsw-2000spl) in a sealed box that was within 5% of manufacturers recommended sealed enclosure and I was able to pump out 150+db no problem. (here's some pics) (and no, no proof of the db results, but they were done to iasca standards, in a local shop, I didn't have a camera with me at the time)
On the other hand, the same subs in a pre-fab vented enclosure on the same amp setup could barely hit anything over 140db, even with using cheating bass boosts, and overly high gain...
I know you know this with your MECP certs, but there are way too many on this forum with out, and need to know this before diving head first into a project like this.
And btw what's up with the dented dustcap (old sub used as a placeholder?) and the crappy vinyl wrinkles near that sub?