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Thread: 4 sub fiberglass boxes

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Meakin View Post
    You should build proper enclosures for the subs or they're not going to perform very well in just fibreglass.
    Post like this are what makes the internet a bad thing at times.
    Meakin, you are far from correct. I've been building (as well as many others) COMPLETE fiberglass sub enclosures for years (I got my MECP certification back in 93).
    Making unfounded statements on the internet is why many consider the WWW a bad place to research.

    Just for shyts_N_giggles..................
    Pictures of my COMPLETE fiberglass enclosure inside my Mustang



    141 db with nothing but a trio of Kicker 10's powered by an Ole School Orion High Current 250.

  2. #32
    Variable Bitrate red_parchel's Avatar
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    god bless Ol' Skool
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  3. #33
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    LOL, aint that the truth!
    I'm putting an Ole SKool Punch 75 and 200ix into my GTO as part of the Carputer install.
    I just haven't been impressed with much of the new amplification choices of today.
    I guess I'm just old. I still believe a 150 watt amp should put out 2.5X the advertised power! You know, like they did in the late 80's early 90's (the Golden years of car audio!)

  4. #34
    FLAC J187's Avatar
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    MMALEXANDER, that my friend is an HCCA?? NICE! Excellent, excellent amp!!

    To the poster who said that fiberglass isn't a good material to use for enclosures... I sincerely would like to hear your explaination for this. What is it that makes fiberglass a poor choice?
    Its not the cards you're dealt, its how you play the hand!

    Quote Originally Posted by ryuandwings View Post
    Where can I get a roll of tin foil?
    I been looking for that all over the net, but I can't find it.
    Please help.

  5. #35
    Registered User vfinterceptor's Avatar
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    It's not that fiberglass is a poor choice.
    You just have to make it of sufficient thickness and/or brace it to prevent flexing of the "box". I usually use damping material (acoustic fill) to help out a fiberglass box.

    Otherwise, fiberglass is a perfectly fine choice.

    In some cases, it's the only choice due to shape and space limitations.

    Chees

    BJ

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by J187 View Post
    MMALEXANDER, that my friend is an HCCA?? NICE! Excellent, excellent amp!!
    Ha Ha, another fan of the Ole Skool!
    HCCA High Current Competition (cheater) Amp. 1/4 ohm stable. It's been running 2 ohm bridged (1 ohm seen per channel) for YEARS. Nary a hiccup the first. Definitely an over built amp (we used to build comp systems with the HCCA 50 on the rgular). 1/4 ohm stable back in the 90s just rediculous!
    The young whipper snappers of today, have no idea what real amplification is/was about!

  7. #37
    FLAC J187's Avatar
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    Wait, check it out, this idiot thinks he can compete with a 250w amp....WTF??

    I always resented the "cheater" title though, they were more or less DAMN good amps. IF Orion and PPI could make amps that could play for days at less than 1ohm what's cheating about that - its build quality and superior circuitry especially as you said, in the 90s!. Grandted they rated it at 4ohm (I think PPI even tried rating one of their models 50x2@8 HAHA). The only difference between what HIFONICS and others claim their amps can do and what ORIAN 250HCCAs COULD do is a bolt of lightning .

    Another old school amp series, not as well known and not known for playing quite that low was the ZR series from kicker. Those amps were absolutely awsome!! Aesthetically and performance wise. YOu could use a center link and put them together, making one really long amp. The ZR600 alone could POUND a pair of first gen solobarics. The ZRS could play low and all day long. Built as one large cast heat sink, they really held up under duress and they sounded good clean and loud.
    Its not the cards you're dealt, its how you play the hand!

    Quote Originally Posted by ryuandwings View Post
    Where can I get a roll of tin foil?
    I been looking for that all over the net, but I can't find it.
    Please help.

  8. #38
    Wants to make it harder monkeyracer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MMAlexander View Post
    Post like this are what makes the internet a bad thing at times.
    Meakin, you are far from correct. I've been building (as well as many others) COMPLETE fiberglass sub enclosures for years (I got my MECP certification back in 93).
    Making unfounded statements on the internet is why many consider the WWW a bad place to research.

    Just for shyts_N_giggles..................
    Pictures of my COMPLETE fiberglass enclosure inside my Mustang



    141 db with nothing but a trio of Kicker 10's powered by an Ole School Orion High Current 250.
    No, actually it's people that didn't understand what the poster was saying and flame them for the wrong reason. He was saying that if it's not done right, the subs will not perform. If he does do it right, then they will perform just fine. The first poster's original design was very poorly designed. The second remake is better. But if the subs are in the wrong air space, they can definitely sound worse than one in a well designed box. Also, if the subs are fighting for the same airspace, then unless they are perfectly sync'd they will not vibrate at exactly the same moment, so they will actually cancel out some of the other subs' bass, and eventually make the VC's work that much harder to push the sub and definitely reduce the overall life of the sub...

    For example: My old 7G galant had two rockford fosgate 1000 watt amps (continuous not max, when lightning strikes...) into two Pioneer competition DB subs (tsw-2000spl) in a sealed box that was within 5% of manufacturers recommended sealed enclosure and I was able to pump out 150+db no problem. (here's some pics) (and no, no proof of the db results, but they were done to iasca standards, in a local shop, I didn't have a camera with me at the time)


    On the other hand, the same subs in a pre-fab vented enclosure on the same amp setup could barely hit anything over 140db, even with using cheating bass boosts, and overly high gain...

    I know you know this with your MECP certs, but there are way too many on this forum with out, and need to know this before diving head first into a project like this.

    And btw what's up with the dented dustcap (old sub used as a placeholder?) and the crappy vinyl wrinkles near that sub?
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