Documentation - All Sensors

**2k1Toaster** · 01-16-2011, 12:18 AM

Originally Posted by partgypsy

What are the three connections on the relays for? I suppose one is + one is - and the other is ? There is no indication on the male pins. I assume that the power out is very small? So, say I want it to switch on a 110v outlet. What do I need?
Thanks

It is a standard relay.

There is a common, a normally connected, and a normally not-connected.

Relays have no polarity. The coil sides are wired to the little header pins that plug into the FB.

You can switch 25A with these relays. If you want 110vac AC then just connected to common and either NC or NO depending on how you want it to work.

**Dan2008** · 01-16-2011, 10:59 AM

Check out post #4 in this thread for a good visual on using a 120VAC relay:

LightSequencer Retrofit Demo

**partgypsy** · 01-24-2011, 11:40 AM

Geesh... you explain, like a doctor... or worse... an accountant!

What is the purpose of a "normally not-connected" pin. "Common" is common to what? Where do I get the mating connector for these relays and what are they called? (Perhaps you sell them as well?)

Originally Posted by 2k1Toaster

It is a standard relay.

There is a common, a normally connected, and a normally not-connected.

Relays have no polarity. The coil sides are wired to the little header pins that plug into the FB.

You can switch 25A with these relays. If you want 110vac AC then just connected to common and either NC or NO depending on how you want it to work.

**2k1Toaster** · 01-24-2011, 11:56 AM

Originally Posted by partgypsy

Geesh... you explain, like a doctor... or worse... an accountant!

What is the purpose of a "normally not-connected" pin. "Common" is common to what? Where do I get the mating connector for these relays and what are they called? (Perhaps you sell them as well?)

Perhaps a general read up on relays will help. Look at this part of wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Relay#Pole_and_throw

Explains NO, NC, and Common. We sell SPDT relays so the picture there should help too.

The mating connector for the FB is already soldered on. The mating connector for the relay terminals is a generic spade connector. Available at an auto store or even Radioshack.

**UniqelyCommon** · 02-05-2011, 12:17 AM

Originally Posted by 2k1Toaster

The mating connector for the relay terminals is a generic spade connector. Available at an auto store or even Radioshack.

You can likely get a 100 pack at Autozone for the price of 5 at Radioshack, or such was my experience...2 years ago...

(The Volume Control (Linear Variable Resistor) datasheet doesn't give a pinout, and I seem to have lost

my multimeter)
((The supplied cable isn't soldered to the resistor, which is fine but still need to know which is power, ground, the analog signal, and if the LED should be tied directly to the +5V (likely not!

) )
Update: my findings

**hellthorne** · 04-09-2013, 06:34 PM

I'm not much of an electrical engineer, but i want to build a speed sensor using a hall effect sensor and the fusion frequency to voltage convertor.
The problem i have is that just about ever hall effect sensor I have seen has three pins: vcc, ground and output. The freq. to voltage convertor only has two input pins, so I am not sure how to hook up the hall effect sensor.

Anybody have ideas on how to make this work (other than recommending a reed switch instead of a hall effect sensor)?

**2k1Toaster** · 04-09-2013, 06:57 PM

Originally Posted by hellthorne

I'm not much of an electrical engineer, but i want to build a speed sensor using a hall effect sensor and the fusion frequency to voltage convertor.
The problem i have is that just about ever hall effect sensor I have seen has three pins: vcc, ground and output. The freq. to voltage convertor only has two input pins, so I am not sure how to hook up the hall effect sensor.

Anybody have ideas on how to make this work (other than recommending a reed switch instead of a hall effect sensor)?

I have an unreleased board that does small signal AC measurements and counts them. It has its own USB interface via a virtual COM port. It works on tachometer signals, but it should work on small signals that come from the wheel speed sensors. If you are curious, I can send you a bare board or something.

**hellthorne** · 04-13-2013, 08:45 PM

sure. sounds good. should i send contact info via private message?

**2k1Toaster** · 04-23-2013, 04:45 PM

Originally Posted by hellthorne

sure. sounds good. should i send contact info via private message?

Send me an email at FusionControlCentre at gmail dot com

**OldSpark** · 04-23-2013, 05:48 PM

Hall effect modules (HKZ1-1 etc) are power in (usually automotive +12V else 5V), GND & pulsed output (usually open collector - ie, pulses to GND) hence can be used on any uPC input (FB etc.

Hal effect sensors (UGN3503 etc) are similar but they lack the output squaring circuitry and are hence a varying signal - eg, an AC signal usually centered around the mid-supply voltage. Hence analog inputs need to be used, else squaring or pulse circuitry added.

FYI - both are technically DC outputs since they do not go below 0V (GND). Technically the 2nd type is an AC output offset by a DC bias, but it is still "DC" (both mathematically and circuit-wise).