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97 Honda Accord huuuge install

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  • 97 Honda Accord huuuge install

    Hey guys,

    I'm about midway through my install now and thought i would share it with you. I've been lurking on these forums for quite some time now (about 4 years or so), so its finally my turn to show you what ive done. My background is IT, i've installed computers into almost everything so its only natural that it would be the car next. Not only did i want the computer in there, i have an affinity for very loud, ear crunching bass audio installs. So, first step was to buy all the gear, then get it installed. buying the gear has taken me almost 2 years as i stopped halfway and did a full upgrade on my home theatre system. Anyways, Im going all out on the car and have clocked up about $ALOT so far. Im getting the basic audio/computer functions built in and then ill start to wire in all the juicy stuff like OBD, Fusion Brain, TPMS, etc etc, i wont get into all of that yet. My Carputer has been named A.M.E (Advanced Mobile Entertainment).


    The base system ive almost finished building is as follows:


    AUDIO
    Headunit: Clarion DXZ-935 (absolutely fantastic sound processing)
    Front Speakers: Alpine SPR-17s Components @ 200wrms
    Front Amp: Alpine F250 4ch amp (bridged to 2 channels)
    Rear Speakers: Eclipse 4-Way 6x9s (powered off head unit)
    Sub: JL Audio 12W7 @ 1000wrms (this thing is a friggen fire-breathing monster)
    Sub Amp: JL 1000/1 RMS
    Power Acoustic 2 Farad Capacitor

    COMPUTER
    EPIA SP13000
    1gb DDR400 Ram
    Seagate 320gb Sata HDD
    Audigy 2 NX
    Slim Slotload DVD Drive
    Xenarc 700IDT Monitor
    Had an OPUS150, it didnt work, so just bought an M2-ATX which.
    Garmin GPS18 USB Receiver (5hz)

    Windows XP
    Road Runner (Is there anything else!!??)
    Garmin Mobile PC with NZ Open Source Maps
    Franson GPSGate

    Everything has been housed in the boot of the car. But to get everything in the way i wanted it, i ended up having to recreate the entire boot floor, making a custom cut door to get access to the spare wheel, then getting the sub box custom built to the dimensions of the sub requirements and the area it had in my boot. All the fab work for this except the sub box i did myself and took a rather long time of measurements, cutting, more measurements! My garage has just been an absolute mess of saw dust, cuttings, tools all over the floor :P Once im happy with the way the carputer is running, then i'll be building an enclosure for that on the left side of the sub.


    All the wiring for the audio going into the boot. All power cables routed on the right side of the car and all audio cables routed on the left side of the car. Keeps that nasty interference away!


    Starting to build the custom boot floor. I traced the outline of the whole boot, cut up one large piece of MDF, then cut that piece in half so i could slot it into the boot.


    Building the enclosure for the JL amp


    Panels in, some audio gear in, just doing some testing with the computer.


    the enclosure for the capacitor is countersunk into the spare tyre. This is the custom door that i made so i could still get access to my spare tyre.



    The vinyling and carpeting took me and a friend aaages to do, so glad thats over. Got to say though, the boot looks friggen awesome at night!




    Shot of the dash





    3 Way Switch for the M2-ATX mounted to the right of my steering wheel. Flick it down for AUTO (on with ign, off with ign) [blue led], flick it to the middle keeps computer OFF, flick it up for OVERRIDE (keeps computer on, regardless of ign) [red led]. Also a digital voltmeter and a temperature sensor to track the temp of my sub amp.



    Ill post some more pics once ive made the enclosure for the computer. At the moment, its all just sitting in a little cardboard box in the corner of my boot.

  • #2
    Nice! Clean trunk! Gotta love the Accords!

    Comment


    • #3
      Hey man,

      First off. Amazing Job - that looks really great and clean!

      I have a 95 Accord - same body style as you. Anyway I'm having some issues with my switch - I'm using the same SPDT Center off type that you are and I seem to have something reversed.

      Can you post some more detail on your switch?

      For me, position 1 ( per the number on the back of the switch) is always on and position 3 is On/off with the car - But I think its supposed to be the other way around.

      Anyway, can you tell me how you hooked up the wires (what are they connected to, etc) ? Any detail/photos would be helpful.

      Thanks!

      Comment


      • #4
        Hey Dan,

        You have SPDT so no LED's hooked up then yeah? If that's the case and your switch is the other way around, can you not just either turn the switch 180 degrees around so it is the right way round? Or maybe just taking the 12V constant and 12V remote wires and swap them?

        Does your centre off keep the computer off?

        Ill take a picture of the behind of my switch tonight and ill post that up tomorrow so you can see what i've done.
        Just for my connections on my switch...i used the 12v constant and 12v remote lines and ground connection from my head unit harness, i just tapped into the existing wires there.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by LordNikon View Post
          Hey Dan,

          You have SPDT so no LED's hooked up then yeah? If that's the case and your switch is the other way around, can you not just either turn the switch 180 degrees around so it is the right way round? Or maybe just taking the 12V constant and 12V remote wires and swap them?

          Does your centre off keep the computer off?

          Ill take a picture of the behind of my switch tonight and ill post that up tomorrow so you can see what i've done.
          Just for my connections on my switch...i used the 12v constant and 12v remote lines and ground connection from my head unit harness, i just tapped into the existing wires there.
          I am feeling the need for a bypass switch like that. nice concept
          Check out my CARPC: Project Diamond Plate

          Quick Reference:
          CPU Electrical Specs
          Power Supply Calculator

          Video Connections for newbies
          Temperature Converter
          Voltage Calculator

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by LordNikon View Post
            Hey Dan,

            You have SPDT so no LED's hooked up then yeah? If that's the case and your switch is the other way around, can you not just either turn the switch 180 degrees around so it is the right way round? Or maybe just taking the 12V constant and 12V remote wires and swap them?

            Does your centre off keep the computer off?

            Ill take a picture of the behind of my switch tonight and ill post that up tomorrow so you can see what i've done.
            Just for my connections on my switch...i used the 12v constant and 12v remote lines and ground connection from my head unit harness, i just tapped into the existing wires there.
            You have a ground going to your switch? I did not know I need that.

            All of my connections come off the existing wire harness for me as well.

            I'm pretty sure the center off keeps it off. I'll have to check, I have an issue now with my radio fuse blowing (so I can't test anything out, there is no ign signal being sent at the moment).

            Comment


            • #7
              @dMand

              Yes, the bypass switch is a brilliant mod to have...gives you so much more control over the computer. Switching it to override when you stop to fill up with gas or keeping it off if you are driving 30 secs down the road...its nice to be able to have that kind of control. If you search for posts made by "FusionFanatic", he has some great diagrams that you can follow to make your own switch.


              @minoritydan

              I used ground in my switch because i am using a DPDT switch and have LED's to signal the switch position....blue led for auto and red led for override. If you are using a SPDT switch (ie no LEDS) then you wont need ground, just the 12V constant and 12V remote. If you are getting the switch "the other way round", just simply swap the wires in pin 1 and 3 and you will have it the "right way round"

              If you are blowing fuses in your radio harness, have you checked that you dont have a short anywhere? I would go and check where you tapped into the harness and the back of your switch and make sure you dont have any suspect shorts.

              Comment


              • #8


                Hey what kind of monitor is that, I don't see it listed... I have the exact same car, 1997 4 door honda accord. I am probably gonna try and do a carputer install in feb or march so I'm trying to plan everything I need and that looks like a good video monitor!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Hey, you're steering wheel is on the wrong side!! No, just kidding. I like the trunk set up - i keep meaning to do something like that (91 accord here)

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    wow, great install. Can't wait to see how you show off the computer.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by LordNikon View Post
                      If you are blowing fuses in your radio harness, have you checked that you dont have a short anywhere? I would go and check where you tapped into the harness and the back of your switch and make sure you dont have any suspect shorts.
                      I have a Clarion EQ in my dash, to have a hardware control of my volume. Its just like the Ford Fusion example in the Projects section. (http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...ion-2-0-a.html)

                      Anyway, I power that from my radio harness. ( picked up this harness: http://www.installer.com/item/displa...php?it=71-1720)

                      How would I check for a short? Like exposed wire? All of my wire connections are quick disconnects, but I don't have them in heat shrunk tubing.

                      Should I be running the EQ off of the Stock harness, or the M2-Atx (in the trunk, but I can run a cable to it if need be. It does get the remote turn on from the trunk though M2-ATX though).

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Yeah if you are checking for shorts you just want to make sure that any exposed wire isnt touching what it shouldn't be touching. You shouldn't have any exposed wire at all for that matter :P

                        you should be able to run the EQ off the stock harness no worries, its not like it has a small power limit set on it. Maybe the fuse was geared just for your head unit and powering the EQ off that same line has maybe added on a little extra power draw than what the fuse was geared for. Have you tried putting in a slightly larger fuse? IE if you are using a 15amp fuse, maybe try a 20 or 25amp fuse?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by LordNikon View Post
                          Yeah if you are checking for shorts you just want to make sure that any exposed wire isnt touching what it shouldn't be touching. You shouldn't have any exposed wire at all for that matter :P

                          you should be able to run the EQ off the stock harness no worries, its not like it has a small power limit set on it. Maybe the fuse was geared just for your head unit and powering the EQ off that same line has maybe added on a little extra power draw than what the fuse was geared for. Have you tried putting in a slightly larger fuse? IE if you are using a 15amp fuse, maybe try a 20 or 25amp fuse?
                          I did not try that. I just blew 4 back to back, but I think It might be a short then. The quick disconnects are not shielded. Its like bare metal quick disconnects: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2104019

                          So I guess that could cause a short then right?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Hey, LN, thanks for the info. I know how to wire that switch but it never came to mind till I seen your post. Good job!
                            Check out my CARPC: Project Diamond Plate

                            Quick Reference:
                            CPU Electrical Specs
                            Power Supply Calculator

                            Video Connections for newbies
                            Temperature Converter
                            Voltage Calculator

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Quite possibly if they were touching other bare wires or surfaces. I would try putting some electrical tape around the bare metal, and also try a slightly larger fuse. I reckon if you have blown 4 fuses back to back, then you might be drawing too much for the fuse to handle.

                              Comment

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