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Getting rid of keys in my '02 Volvo S60

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  • Getting rid of keys in my '02 Volvo S60

    Hot Wiring
    Today I began the reverse-engineer process of the ignition and got it to start without the key in a few times. This was slightly less than perfect though so after Christmas I'm going to take out a multimeter and check the voltage on each ignition wire at each stage of the startup.

    Arduino Starter
    I don't trust a computer to control the starter, so I'm going to hook up an arduino micro controller and program it to control the entire sequence of key-turns. This will allow me to do the following with some programing:
    • Start the car
    • Put the car in accessory mode
    • Turn off the car
    • Allow shifting
    • Disable shifting
    • Disable starting

    Sheeva Plug and Arduino
    The Sheeva plug will "talk" to the Arduino and tell it when to use its features. This makes room for a ton of cool stuff.

    Bluetooth
    When the Sheeva plug senses my phone connected via Bluetooth, it will tell the car to start, but will leave the shifter and doors locked.

    RFID
    A USB RFID reader is getting put behind the handle for the driver's door. I'm injecting an RFID tag the size of a grain of rice into my hand. The RFID reader has a range of about 15 cm. So now as I'm reaching for the door handle, it will unlock the drivers door.

    Fingerprint Scanner
    A fingerprint scanner is going to be put on the dash board. When I scan my fingerprint, if the car isn't already started it will start, and it will make sure the shifter is unlocked.

    Web Page/AIM/Text messages
    I'm already able to communicate with my car via all three of these methods. I'm now going to add a few more commands to the list for controlling the starter and locks.

    Never a dead battery
    This is awesome. We all know how awful it is to come to a car with a dead battery. With my sheeva plug running all the time, the battery takes about 20 hours to die, that's a bit shorter than I'd like. To prevent the battery from EVER dying, the sheeva plug will monitor the battery constantly. When the voltage drops below 11 volts, it will start the car. When the voltage gets up to 13.5 it will assume it's fully charged and shut off the engine.

    Text Message Alerts
    Security without range. Every time the car is started, I will get a text telling me it was started and what triggered the start.

    Preventing extended idles
    The engine will shut off automatically if all of the following conditions are met:
    • The car is in park
    • The car was not started by fingerprint reader
    • The car has not been put into drive at all
    • It has been on for over 10 minutes
    My Nearly Complete Car:
    http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...ed-car-pc.html

    Micro Control Center... Control Your Car Across the Internet
    http://www.mp3car.com/fusion-brain/1...-internet.html

    Website: (It's a work in progress, really. All my projects have taken me from ever really developing it.)
    http://paulfurtado.com/

  • #2
    Originally posted by PaulF View Post
    When the voltage drops below 11 volts, it will start the car. When the voltage gets up to 13.5 it will assume it's fully charged and shut off the engine.
    1st things 1st, wow, totally awesome for the whole shebang!

    2nd, most alternators charge between 13.8 & 14.4 volts, it'll be hard whilst engine on to acurately measure battery charge, you'll most likely only be able to see the charging voltage. Could I recommend that, in the situation of low voltage being used to start the engine, that it be allowed to run for approx. 20 mins to ensure enough time has been given to charge the battery?

    Comment


    • #3
      You are nucking futs my friend.
      A thought though: Maybe my math is wrong but let's say full charge is 14.4V and it dies after 20 hours. Assuming dead equals a complete discharge (0V), that means it's losing 0.72V/hour. If you want your car to start after it goes down to 11V, that means it will start every 4.72 hours or so. Yes?
      PROGRESS:
      Hardware: 100%
      Software: 99% - Always upgrading and improving.
      Installation: 100%

      WORKLOG:
      2005 F-150

      Comment


      • #4
        Generally, for a normal car battery, anything below 11.5ish is "dead", for this kind of application, you would really need an optima yellow top style deep discharge battery. The yellow top's can cope with starting a car as long as no more than 10 seconds crank is required, gets problematic after that.

        Of course, the definition of dead does depend on the OP, everybody uses different ones, I use the above due to years in the motor trade

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Coda View Post
          1st things 1st, wow, totally awesome for the whole shebang!
          Thanks!

          Originally posted by Coda View Post
          2nd, most alternators charge between 13.8 & 14.4 volts, it'll be hard whilst engine on to acurately measure battery charge, you'll most likely only be able to see the charging voltage. Could I recommend that, in the situation of low voltage being used to start the engine, that it be allowed to run for approx. 20 mins to ensure enough time has been given to charge the battery?
          I was thinking about this too. I'm going to play with it a bit and see if there is any way I can accurately see the battery's voltage. If not, I may get a hall-effect ammeter and have it monitor how much current is going to the battery. When that current drops to only a few amps, then I'll know the battery is charged.


          Originally posted by Tical84 View Post
          You are nucking futs my friend.
          A thought though: Maybe my math is wrong but let's say full charge is 14.4V and it dies after 20 hours. Assuming dead equals a complete discharge (0V), that means it's losing 0.72V/hour. If you want your car to start after it goes down to 11V, that means it will start every 4.72 hours or so. Yes?
          By dead I meant a no-start situation. Once the battery gets down to about 10 volts, all the electronics have shut themselves off and the car won't start. The math is also not that simple. The volts/hour number fluctuates quite a bit. I think from experience it will take about 15 hours to get down below 11.
          My Nearly Complete Car:
          http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...ed-car-pc.html

          Micro Control Center... Control Your Car Across the Internet
          http://www.mp3car.com/fusion-brain/1...-internet.html

          Website: (It's a work in progress, really. All my projects have taken me from ever really developing it.)
          http://paulfurtado.com/

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Coda View Post
            Generally, for a normal car battery, anything below 11.5ish is "dead", for this kind of application, you would really need an optima yellow top style deep discharge battery. The yellow top's can cope with starting a car as long as no more than 10 seconds crank is required, gets problematic after that.

            Of course, the definition of dead does depend on the OP, everybody uses different ones, I use the above due to years in the motor trade
            I do have a deep cycle battery, just not an optima. The battery is also huge. So starting from 11 volts is not an issue.
            My Nearly Complete Car:
            http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...ed-car-pc.html

            Micro Control Center... Control Your Car Across the Internet
            http://www.mp3car.com/fusion-brain/1...-internet.html

            Website: (It's a work in progress, really. All my projects have taken me from ever really developing it.)
            http://paulfurtado.com/

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by PaulF View Post
              I may get a hall-effect ammeter and have it monitor how much current is going to the battery. When that current drops to only a few amps, then I'll know the battery is charged.
              The fusion brain thingy has a 50amp current sensor as an extra iirc, could hook it up to the ard.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Coda View Post
                The fusion brain thingy has a 50amp current sensor as an extra iirc, could hook it up to the ard.
                Well the issue with that, is that it uses a shunt, so the current actually flows through it. The line that is getting measured is the alternator to battery line. So that line can have up to 135 amps flowing through it during normal operation and 600 amps during a crank.

                Hall effect sensors don't actually connect to the wire. They measure the magnetic field around the wire. They're actually awesome.
                My Nearly Complete Car:
                http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...ed-car-pc.html

                Micro Control Center... Control Your Car Across the Internet
                http://www.mp3car.com/fusion-brain/1...-internet.html

                Website: (It's a work in progress, really. All my projects have taken me from ever really developing it.)
                http://paulfurtado.com/

                Comment


                • #9
                  Good idea, bad implementation. You can do all this stuff (and much more) with a decent
                  car alarm system and some custom electronics, for about the same price,
                  but without the insane "never dead battery" idea. By insane, I mean wasting fuel,
                  unnecessary pollution, killing the battery (deep discharge battery only means higher tolerance
                  for accidental deep discharge, and it takes 1.5-2x time to kill it), not to mention problems when
                  you leave the car indoors, for example in a garage, and the engine starts (exhaust gas can kill).
                  Check my worklog:
                  Corsa + Atom + Gentoo Linux + 9" capacitive touchscreen

                  Lord of the boards: DFI CP100-NRM

                  "Or you can try Ubuntu, but than don't tell everyone you are using linux,
                  because it's just a secret unreleased prebeta of Windows 3829" :P

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Most alarms with remote start will usually offer an option to start for very low temps and low battery voltage, so it's already ou there, this just seems to be a lot more customisable. Perhaps the option of a solar charging panel perm connected to the battery would eak out more life, as would starting the engine at a higher voltage, say 11.8 volts.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Just had a thought, you going to have a valet mode?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by simplex View Post
                        Good idea, bad implementation. You can do all this stuff (and much more) with a decent
                        car alarm system and some custom electronics, for about the same price
                        Please enlighten me on which "decent car alarm" systems will allow me to start the engine with the presence of bluetooth, then unlock the door with an RFID chip embedded in my hand, then allow shifting with a scan of a fingerprint for under $100.

                        Originally posted by simplex View Post
                        but without the insane "never dead battery" idea. By insane, I mean wasting fuel
                        Barely any fuel. I'd rather waste 5 dollars worth of fuel than end up at work an hour late because I had to wait for someone to come jump start me.

                        Originally posted by simplex View Post
                        unnecessary pollution
                        Depends what you deem necessary. It will probably only start itself once per 24 hours so the pollution is minimal. If it wasn't automatically started, I would have to start it anyway, so it's not like I'm changing anything from what it is right now. Except the convenience factor.

                        Originally posted by simplex View Post
                        not to mention problems when
                        you leave the car indoors, for example in a garage, and the engine starts (exhaust gas can kill).
                        Originally posted by Coda View Post
                        Just had a thought, you going to have a valet mode?
                        Good catch, I didn't think of that.. I'll program a valet mode into the sheeva plug and I'll program a command for it into my current remote control framework which will give me access through the internet, text, instant message, and centrafuse.
                        My Nearly Complete Car:
                        http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...ed-car-pc.html

                        Micro Control Center... Control Your Car Across the Internet
                        http://www.mp3car.com/fusion-brain/1...-internet.html

                        Website: (It's a work in progress, really. All my projects have taken me from ever really developing it.)
                        http://paulfurtado.com/

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by PaulF View Post
                          Please enlighten me on which "decent car alarm" systems will allow me to start the engine with the presence of bluetooth, then unlock the door with an RFID chip embedded in my hand, then allow shifting with a scan of a fingerprint for under $100.
                          Well, about the RFID part, check this and this, $25 for a 4-door kit, $39.99 for ten.
                          No fancy USB, simple analog solution, you can wire this to the central locking/alarm.

                          I don't see a point in bluetooth remote engine starter, please explain.

                          Well here's an alarm with sms text remote start, for $135.67.
                          I just linked this as an example, as I recommend a GPS+GSM alarm system.

                          Not to mention this, for $31.95

                          I think you shouldn't use fingerprint reader, if you are using RFID for the lock, you can use it
                          to start the car and unlock the shifter.

                          So:
                          Sensors on the doors: unlock the doors on proximity (of your hand this case),
                          also the driver side door sensor puts the car in ACC mode and kills the alarm.

                          Another sensor on the dash (for example): starts the engine, unlock the shifter.

                          I don't meant to be rude, I'm just saying, you can do all this stuff in a more simple way,
                          without this "never dead battery" thing, as the above system uses approx 1-2W

                          Also about the costs: $135.67+$39.99 = $175.66 make it $200 with wiring and relays.

                          Sheeva Plug is $99 itself and you also need Arduino, USB RFID reader, etc.
                          Check my worklog:
                          Corsa + Atom + Gentoo Linux + 9" capacitive touchscreen

                          Lord of the boards: DFI CP100-NRM

                          "Or you can try Ubuntu, but than don't tell everyone you are using linux,
                          because it's just a secret unreleased prebeta of Windows 3829" :P

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by simplex View Post
                            Well, about the RFID part, check this and this, $25 for a 4-door kit, $39.99 for ten.
                            No fancy USB, simple analog solution, you can wire this to the central locking/alarm.
                            The USB solution costs about 30 bucks. The ability to customize it is amazing though, plus it's digital. So one USB cable into the door back to the sheeva plug. To customize I can then link it to anything else the sheeva plug controls in the car. Instead of just unlocking the doors, I can set it to unlock the doors and turn the computer on. The list goes on.

                            Originally posted by simplex View Post
                            I don't see a point in bluetooth remote engine starter, please explain.
                            Admittedly, the bluetooth start is more of a "because I can." It's extremely simple to setup, so I'm doing it.

                            Originally posted by simplex View Post
                            Well here's an alarm with sms text remote start, for $135.67.
                            I just linked this as an example, as I recommend a GPS+GSM alarm system.
                            That's $135 right there, and I'll have to pay for a GSM cell phone plan to go with it. I already have an internet connection in my car and I already have the ability to text it reliably. I have a computer in my house set up as a server. It stays logged in to AIM in a C# program. It constantly communicates with the car too. So if the car needs to send a text, it sends the message to the server which then sends the text to me. If I need to text the car, I send it to the screen name and it sends it to the car over the web. If the internet connection is unreliable, it the message waits on either side. Right now as I walk to my car, I send it a text to turn the computer on. Works extremely well and reliably. It would be more expensive to pay another bill for cell phone plan.

                            Originally posted by simplex View Post
                            I think you shouldn't use fingerprint reader, if you are using RFID for the lock, you can use it
                            to start the car and unlock the shifter.
                            The issue with that is I may want to just open the door and not start the car.


                            Originally posted by simplex View Post
                            So:
                            Sensors on the doors: unlock the doors on proximity (of your hand this case),
                            also the driver side door sensor puts the car in ACC mode and kills the alarm.

                            Another sensor on the dash (for example): starts the engine, unlock the shifter.

                            I don't meant to be rude, I'm just saying, you can do all this stuff in a more simple way,
                            without this "never dead battery" thing, as the above system uses approx 1-2W
                            The hardware way is much more complicated though.. think about all the required wiring. Theres a USB hub in my dash already, simply hook the arduino into that. Run a USB extension into the door and plug the RFID reader into that. No new fuses, no new power cables, nothing.

                            Originally posted by simplex View Post
                            Also about the costs: $135.67+$39.99 = $175.66 make it $200 with wiring and relays.
                            Sheeva Plug is $99 itself and you also need Arduino, USB RFID reader, etc.
                            I think you're coming at this as though I'm adding the sheeva plug for this specific purpose. I already have the sheeva plug in my car and use it quite a bit.

                            Parts involved:
                            -An arduino ($29.95)
                            -An RFID reader ($40.95)
                            -A Frequency to Voltage converter ($9.99)
                            -Injectable RFID tag ($3.95)
                            -I only need 5 relays and I have a whole drawer full of them on my work bench
                            -I already have a fingerprint scanner laying around. I may cut that out of the picture too, but it's a cool feature and easy to add.
                            -USB cables
                            -A small project enclosure.
                            $80 total.

                            When I designed the main computer setup, I designed it in such a way that would make it easy to tack on features like these.
                            My Nearly Complete Car:
                            http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...ed-car-pc.html

                            Micro Control Center... Control Your Car Across the Internet
                            http://www.mp3car.com/fusion-brain/1...-internet.html

                            Website: (It's a work in progress, really. All my projects have taken me from ever really developing it.)
                            http://paulfurtado.com/

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Very interesting PaulF. It seems like you've thought about this for quite some time. I do have a request, can you keep a worklog? I'm sure many people, myself included, will be interested in implementing this into their own cars.

                              Just a suggestion, aren't their battery circuits that can be used to power the Sheeva? And then once this circuit/battery is depleted then power comes from the car battery?

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