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1997 Chevy Blazer

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  • 1997 Chevy Blazer

    Well, if anyone watched my install in the 1998 Cadillac Seville STS, this is to update it. I'm removing my install from the cadillac as it has caused some minor problems with the system since it has the Bose Premium system in it. Which I found out almost everything electronically controlled in the car is routed through. And I didn't want to go overboard on cost to fully integrate the pc and risk having the car become useless. I will be documenting my install for the Blazer now. Same parts as what I had in the caddy, minus the FM modulator. I'll be ordering the BoomzBox in a couple weeks. I already have a Jensen 400w 4/3/2 channel switchable amp that I'll be using. Since the dash speakers were replaced and the wires cut and removed (before I bought it), I'll be removing them and possibly replacing them with something more mysterious later. Currently it has Roadmaster 6 1/2" speakers in the front and rear doors. Those will also be replaced later too. The OS will also be redone with a stripped barebone XP install with EWF, HORM, and Minlogon. I'll be using RR for the frontend.

    Planned start: Today 8/21

    First order of business, cut the textured clear acrylic to 8 1/2" w by 6 1/4" h to replace the radio and cubby hole in the dash. I'm using clear textured as it'll allow for a more illuminated look later using blue led lights behind. Pictures will be done as each part is installed. This is technically my 2nd install but it should go quite smoothly since I already "practiced" with the caddy.
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  • #2
    Cant wait to see pictures. The Blazer is an SUV right? I see lots of potential for that. I agree about the Caddy.... Seems like they integrate everything into each other. Thats why I would never buy a newer model luxury car. All though some people have done it, but I would think its a b!+ch. I would rather get a normal car and start and build up from there.
    Nirwana Project, the Android/Win 7 hybrid system!

    1X Ainol Novo Flame Tab
    4X MK808b
    3x Perixx Touchpads
    3x 7 inch Screens
    1X 7 inch motorized Screen
    1x Win 7 PC

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    • #3
      Yes the Blazer is an SUV. I got the acrylic marked out to be cut. I'm replacing the radio and cubby area with it. This will allow me to fit my screen and a slim slotload CD/DVD combo drive connected by USB. That's being ordered in 2 weeks. Went a little overboard and got it with a steel case since it'll be mounted in the dash below the monitor. I'll try to get pics posted up today after I go get my new cell phone activated (AGAIN) so I can use it.
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      • #4
        well, now that my blackberry 8530 is usable and i'm back online with it using my netbook, i'm uploading the shot of the textured acrylic i'll be using. it looks ok with the backer still on, but should look much better without it. let me know what you guys think.
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        • #5
          now that the acrylic is cut, it's time to test fit for standoffs and choose the right sized screw to get it in with. once that's done, I can mark the cutout for the monitor and, go willing there's enough room left, the external slot-load combo drive to go either above or below.

          pictures of the dash will also be posted today as soon as i take them.
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          • #6
            well, completely screwed up today. made a newbie fabricator mistake. measured the dash opening instead of the mount opening. turns out i'm off by 2 inches height wise and a 1/2 inch width wise. not horrible tho. realized the acrylic alone wouldn't have been good enough for holding the screen and slot-load drive in place. instead, i'll be using a piece of metal to cover the full mount opening where the factory radio and and cubby used to be. this will allow for added support for the monitor and drive for when i'm out off-roadin in the blazer. the acrylic will be kept and used to fill the gaps around the monitor and drive. this will end up adding a few extra days of fabrication and install, but with a 12 hour work schedule and the fire/rescue calls i get.
            this is going to be a long but very awesome install once finished.

            >>>also, if anyone knows an easy way to tap the park switch and neutral safety switch, please let me know. need to get to these for the siren and red emergency lights going in at the same time as the pc.
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            • #7
              for the emergency lights, could you go into a little more detail on what you need them to do?
              My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
              "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


              next project? subaru brz
              carpc undecided

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              • #8
                The lights just plug into the 12v power outlet with their own switch. The siren is what I'm having problems with. I have a wire that connects to the neutral safety switch and one to the Park Safety (negative) wire. Just need to know where to connect at. Really don't want to pay $500 to get it installed. Help is GREATLY appreciated. Its a Code3 Compact.
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                • #9
                  i am still having trouble understanding the siren-- connecting this wire is going to disable the siren while the vehicle is in park/neutral? or does it enable it?

                  i found a manual, but double check that it is the correct version that you have:
                  http://www.code3pse.com/pdf/install_...0855_rev_4.pdf

                  according to that manual, i do not see a parking, or neutral wire. according to this diagram, though, there is a 12v input(recommended to be connected to a switched source), and a second "scroll" switch which will allow you to pick the tone-- they say that this can be connected to the horn, so when the "scroll" switch is held(old person won't move out of your way when your running to a call) it will emit a air horn sound..
                  My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
                  "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


                  next project? subaru brz
                  carpc undecided

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                  • #10
                    Soudman, this is the correct manual

                    http://code3pse.com/pdf/install_guid...0833_rev_5.pdf
                    go to page 5 for wiring diagram.

                    it's the gray park-kill switch on the radio that connects to the vehicle neutral safety switch so when it's in neutral or park it disables the siren. i can do all the wiring, just need to know where the switch is and which wire to connect to on the switch. the manual is quite vague and doesn't mention that. i appreciate your help and the spoonfeeding. i've tried searching online for a manual for the blazer and haven't found much. my fire chief recommended just not connecting that wire but i want to do it by the manual so it's covered under warrenty and vehicle insurance.
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                    • #11
                      i wouldn't consider this spoon feeding so much as swapping ideas

                      i found this electrical manual for a 95 online(couldn't find a 97 manual, if you have a haynes manual, it might be listed there).

                      http://www.pswired.com/misc/pacaudio/syswire.pdf

                      on page #58, it shows that there is the transmission range switch with a yellow from the ign circuit and purple wire going out to the starter circuit.

                      that purple wire should be the wire that you need to tie into, but it is hard to know either where that wire is, or how to connect it... it seems that line will only get power of any sort when you go to start the truck..

                      another diagram-- page 56, the shift interlock circuit.

                      it appears that this circuit goes to +12v whenever you press the brake to shift out of park/neutral.. according to the diagram, i think you would need to tie into the wire on the trans-- it would be the light green wire, between 'b' and 'c'. you will probably need to add a relay to this line with a diode just to be safe, but you should be able to use the output of the relay to connect to the park safety switch
                      My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
                      "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


                      next project? subaru brz
                      carpc undecided

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                      • #12
                        Thanks for the diagram soundman. Makes it easier knowing what wires are for what and where the switch is actually located. I'll also call the Chevy dealership tomorrow that did some electrical work on the Caddy for me to make sure it's the corrent wire. If it is, I'll jack the car up, drill a small hole through the hump over the transmission, drop the wire straight down and tap it with a butt-splice. As always, I'll make sure to post pics to help others with their installs too. For the 100w speaker, I'll be removing the ground effects from the bottom of the front bumper so I can drill and tap the C channel to mount the speaker. Just wish it was a solid cross member like the Caddy has, but should still be pretty easy.
                        While the whole install is taking place, I'm going to continue driving the Caddy. Got the metal cut tonight using a piece I cut out of a desktop side panel for a friend that had me install a piece of custom etched plexi in it with the Detroit Lions logo and a couple blue LEDs.
                        Already picked the perfect spot to mount the pc and amp in teh back. I'll be attaching them to the panels that fold down when the reat seats are folded. Once that's done, I'll be building a custom enclosure to protect them and the wiring and adding 4 120mm fans for additional cooling. Hope this install goes better than the Caddy.
                        Stay tuned for updates and pics.
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                        • #13
                          after looking at those diagrams again, you might be able to tap into that light green wire at the brake pedal switch-- at least according to that one schematic..
                          My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
                          "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


                          next project? subaru brz
                          carpc undecided

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                          • #14
                            Hey soundman, I read a little further down below the diagram and found this for the Park-Kill switch:

                            GRAY - PARK KILL- This feature automatically deactivates siren tones when the vehicle is shifted into PARK. Siren tones will be disabled until the vehicle is shifted out of PARK. This circuit is activated by a negative signal. Connect this input to a circuit that is GROUNDED (Earth) when the vehicle is shifted into PARK. It is the installer's responsibility to determine an appropriate location in the vehicle circuitry to connect this wire.
                            Right now I don't know of anything in the vehicle that turns off when the vehicle is shifted into park.
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                            • #15
                              and that would be what the relay is for. actually, the way that i talked about doing it, it would disable the siren in either park or neutral.

                              the other way would be to crack open the gearshift sensor(no idea how big this sensor is though), place a diode so that the park signal can only go towards the trans. then you can connect a wire before this diode, and connect to the siren, so that the siren will only activate when your in park..

                              at this point though, there is a higher chance that you could mess up the gearshift sensor, and that might not allow the truck to start... the risk was there before, but was less because you were just connecting to the existing wires...

                              i am starting to think that it would be easier to not connect this wire at all, and just remember to turn the siren off when you put it in park...
                              My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
                              "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


                              next project? subaru brz
                              carpc undecided

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