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2008 Peugeot 207 beeing upgraded just a bit

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  • 2008 Peugeot 207 beeing upgraded just a bit

    So this is my new worklog, first part will be a copy from my old one located here:

    This is my attempt to document how to fit a carpc and amp in a Peugeot 207 from 2008, it has far better room under the seats, so that is where most stuff will go. Amp's in boot in a 10 cm high box covered in filt to make it blend in. The side of the box that goes against the seat are removed so no trouble with heat :-)

    It's by no means the only way to do it, but I will try to explain my reasons as I go along.

    There is not anything special about the car itself, standard as it left the factory. Again I will fit my Webasto BBW 46 engine preheater, but this time all the electronics for it will be under drivers seat together with fusebox etc. This time the preheater will be installed installed between radiator and bumber. I have allready serviced and cleaned it and checked whats need replacing.

    I left the speakers in the old car, the stock in the new sounds so good that I will not bother with replacing or EQ, Windows 7 has some automatic adjustments that I will use but that's it.

    I ditched the idea of a DVD drive, but this time the screen has a mini usb connector, so I will add the drive at some point. The drive will just go in the glove box when not in use.

    Now to the more fun part, all the parts:
    • Motherboard: Zotac ION ITX A
    • RAM: 2 GB Crucial + 2 GB Kingston (342,75+43,48£ for first 3 items on list)
    • Harddrive: Seagate Momentus 160 GB
    • Internet: Novatel Expedite EU850D (200€)
    • Bluetooth: ISSC
    • Rearview Cam: EasyCap USB 2.0 Video Capture Device + Colour Camera with Night Vision (13,48+27,49£)
    • Amps: Pioneer GM-X624 + Pioneer GM-X402
    • Tire Pressure Monitor: Module from Dejan and 10 Sensors from 3rd eye (278$+60€)
    • Park Distance Messurement: Complete Kit from Dejan (115€)
    • Sub: Pioneer TS-VX205
    • Rear Speakers: Stock Peugeot
    • Front Spekaer: Stock Peugeot
    • DVD Drive: NEC ND-6650A (Just need a USB 2.0 Case)
    • Arials: DAB / FM inc. 5 meter DAB cable (41,99€)
    • Tuner: DAB / FM (89,95€)
    • Microphone: Andrea USB-SA + Superbeam Microphone (63,48£)
    • Wifi: TP-Link WN422G + 9dbi Antennas for both dongle and inhouse router (700DKK approx 95€)
    • USB Sound: Aureon 5.1 USB MK II (500 DKK)
    • Arials: 2 for 3G
    • Screen: 7" Lilliput 669GL-70NP/C/T-HB-RV HDMI DVI (371$)
    • 4 port powered usb hub (150 DKK)
    I still need this:
    • Park Distance Messurement: Complete Kit from Dejan (115€) ->>>>> For the front
    • DVD Drive: Slim USB 2.0 Case
    • DVB-T Tuner: Hauppauge WinTV-NOVA-TD
    • OS: Windows 7 Ultimate 32 Bit
    • Frontend: Ride Runner
    • Skin: Genesis (not released yet)
    • Plugins: BASSRR - Mobilephone.Net - RRPDC - RRTrafficCam - RRTMS - RRVehicleMaintenance - Weather - Fuel Prices - Movie Info - RR Plugin DVBViewer - MJS Gadgets USB-IO - RR Plugin Wifi Manger
    • Bluetooth: Bluesoleil 8
    • Navigation: Sygic

    Day 1 New start (9-10-2010)

    Just wrote the above and for the last month or so since dadinlaw passed away, I have been building my install on the dinner table (not used much anyway). I'm very close to having a running install, where only cable lenghts will change when I install in car. Pics of that tomorrow. Don't be scared that I run speaker wires on same side as signal wires. This car has airbags in seats and at roof edge, so runnning wires are limited to under carpet. I can't move on before I get the last few bits, ie can adapter lead etc.

    A few pics:

    Day 9 Power Controller (17-10-2010)

    This time I had my controller pro made, much smaller and it pleases the eye and mind to know it's made the way things should be done. A few pics:

    And a little advert for a man that relly know how the things should be done: mitchjs

    Day 13 (21-10-2010)

    Been spending the day on routing wires on the dinner table.

    Day 21 Install of Win7 etc. (29-10-2010)

    The setup can roughly be done like in these youtube videos (made by me):

    First I prep a usb stick to install windows 7:

    While we are at it, why not do a few more steps to make a custom install stick. Next step is how we create a boot disc to capture the done install and how to set a answer file, so we can just install and have it start up with not to many stupid boxes to fill out.

    The video is so long I had to split it up in a few parts, the next one:

    Finaly the part where I build the answer file:

    Now installing win7:

    Done installing and checked that everything is ok I only have to do a bit of tweaking.

    In win7 I have found that there is not much tweaking to do, only a few steps:

    Fine Tune Visual Settings

    Click on the Start Button and type in adjust the appearance and hit Enter. This will load the Visual Effects performance

    On this screen I suggest disabling the following settings by removing the check:

    • Animate controls and elements inside windows
    • Animate windows when minimizing and maximizing
    • Enable transparent glass
    • Fade or slide menus into view
    • Fade or slide ToolTips into view
    • Fade out menu items after clicking
    • Show shadows under windows (this may be worth the performance hit for some)
    • show thumbnails instead of icons
    • show translucent selection rectangle
    • Show window contents while dragging
    • Slide open combo boxes

    Click OK when you are finished.

    Disable Services

    Click on the Start Button and type in services.msc and hit Enter.

    I recommend disabling the following services:

    • Block Level Backup Engine Service
    • Certificate Propagation
    • Offline Files
    • Windows Defender*
    • Windows Media Player Network Sharing Service
    • Windows Search

    Disable the Aero Theme on Windows 7

    ▪ Right Click on your desktop and select ” Personalize ”
    ▪ Select windows basic theme.
    ▪ Under background choose solid colour

    Disable the User account control (UAC) Feature in Windows 7

    • From the Control Panel open the ” User Accounts and Family Safety ” > User Account.
    • Click the User Account Control settings link.
    • Now just Drag the Slider towards “Never Notify”.
    • Click “OK” and Reboot your system.

    Turn off Unused Windows 7 Features

    • Open up ” Programs and Features ” from Control Panel.
    • Click the ” Turn Windows features on or off ” from the left pane.
    • Now uncheck all the Feature that you don’t use in Windows 7 and restart the system for the changes to
    take effect.

    Change the Power Plan To Maximum Performance

    • Double click the ” Power Options ” in the Control panel.
    • Click the down arrow showing ” Show Additional Plans ” to see the ” High Performance ” power plan
    ▪ Now just activate the ” High Performance ” plan and that’s it.
    • You may go for the advanced settings for further tweaking if you want.

    Most Essential Softwares To Speed Up Windows 7

    • Wise Registry Cleaner

    Reboot and we are going to edit a few files and then capture the image:


    Capturing the image:


    Some extra software that came to mind:
    • AVG Antivirus Free Edition
    • Tightvnc (remote desktop)
    • Spybot - S&D
    • 3CX (Software IP Phone)
    • Ventrilo (A few friends uses that )

    Got my trays done and test-fitted, need to shave off 1 cm and then cover them in black filt. Also went to a blacksmith and had my control panel done. Pics tomorrow. Also the car have been pro detailed and I had the tire pressure sensors mounted.

    Day 29 Control panel (6-11-2010)

    Got my control panel done, only need to fit a frame arround it. Pic:

    And the car (did not want to show it before it had been polished):

    Day 32 Cable sleeving (9-11-2010)

    Today I got most of the wiring in the car done, everything put in cable sleeving like used on pc psu's. Only missing the wiring for the engine preheater and half of the main power wire to the amp's.

    I got 2 full days where I can work on the car, so a small list of tasks:
    • Give the car a good clean inside so that I don't get dirt moved arround.
    • Extend wire loom for the preheater. The loom is not long enough, org. it was meant that the control unit should be in engine bay, much to harsh a place. Extra wire at the right guage and heat shrink tubing will take care of that.
    • Give park distance sensors last coats of paint and then a few clear coats.

    Day 37 Almost done (14-11-2010)

    Today I got wifi mounted and the double din frame test-fitted. It has been raining a lot lately so I have spend the few hours here and there I got, in the car and not so much on updating this log. But the weather should be better tomorrow so I plan to take photos of the whole install as it is when I call it the day.

    Day 40 PC Part done (17-11-2010)

    Well done is only 99,9% true, I still need the minijack cables installed. But glovebox came back in and the car looks more like it used to. Today I got the last park sensor fitted and the rear cam. Tomorrow I will install the minijack cables and connect up the park distance sensors and rear cam to the pc. Might even pull myself together and do power part so I can order a time at the DIY garage and get the main power wire connected and the engine preheater fitted. Been very lazy so no pics

    Day 41 PC Part done (18-11-2010)

    Today I got the last bit of wiring done for the pc and a lot of pics. Below I will put a small comment on each pic. I will finish up the install from the rear to front as the final step will be connecting the main power wire to the battery.

    Rear cam and Sensors mounted in bumber. Sensors hardly noticeable at just a few meters distance. I gave the rear cam lots of thoughts regarding alternative places it could go... Just behind the window would not work, as the trailer hook would not be in the pic and hence I could not use it very precisely. So I ended up mounting it in bumber 10 cm's from trailer hook. In this way I can use the trailer hook for reference, ie when hook starts to disaprear inside a wall its time to stop

    Sensors are connected to a box hidden behind right rear lights, it can be accessed quickly by just pulling the form shaped filt. The brown stuff running on the metal is rust preventer. This is needed as to prevent rust since salt is heavly used to deice the roads. The box is then connected to a usb box near pc and to 12V.

    Amp's inside a small box covered in filt, nothing much to say here. 2 distro blocks, one for + and one for GND. The GND is terminated with a big ring style terminal, just have to drill the hole in that a tad, so it can be bolted at the seatbelt. + is not connected yet as I have to borrow a bigger wirecutter.

    Inside boot, not bad I think.

    The 3G/UMTS antennas and the Wifi dongle with a high gain antenna. The wifi is completely covered by the pillar trim plastic and the top 3G antenna is hardly noticeble. The tiny box on the dash is the GPS antenna from Garmin.

    The Pc itself. The 3 box's in the lower right corner is the DAB tuner, tire pressure reciever and park distance box. On top of those the dongle for the rear cam. to the left is the usb sound card. The blue wires are sense wires that goes to the usb io box, this tells the pc when lights are on and when park brake are activated and lastly the status of the ACC line. The last is used to tell the pc to hybernate when ACC goes low. Status of park brake is used to allow or not allow video. Lights are used to switch to and from night mode. The wires are much to long but I will not trim the lenght before I have tested that the canbus adapter and power wires etc. work.

    A look through the dash hole... A small 4 port powered hub has found its way here. Also a patch lead the connects speaker wires and can bus adapter to the car. Only missing to install the double din cage and the canbus adapter.

    Day 56 Status (3-12-2010)

    Thought it was time for an update. Have been running with the install for a few days and here are what chought my eye:
    • Some usb devices directly connected to pc does not like hybernation. Might be due to that hub is not powered at the moment.

    Only thing left are to hook up preheater to cooling system and connect petrol hose. Exhaust is ready to mount also. Inside the car I need to hookup cabin fan and solder on the extended wire loom and route it to the heater unit. Then center box console has to go back in and do my control panel.

    Day 69 Status (16-12-2010)

    Just a quick update:
    • During the weekend i'm going to run power to the hub.
    • During the summer or when it gets warm enough, I will run a few wires in cable sleewing and make thing look pretty. I ran out of sleewing and its not the time of year where things looking pretty takes first pri.

    Day 226 Status (13-05-2011)

    Is this log ever goign to end? Well since last time it had moved a lot more in that direction. I finaly got the prehater plummed in and connected to cabin fan. I can now heat the car and deice it in the winther in less than 30 mins, Allready after 15 mins the car is so hot inside i turn off the preheater. the extra fuel use is well spent. It will be roughly 0,25 Litre for a 30 min run. I only need to change out a few bad hose clamps on the pretrol line. A big warning. When drilling the hole through the fuel level sender thingy, check it more than twice. I ended up going to a junk yard and get another one and these can cost half a pc. I have also ditched win xp as win7 is up for the job in my case. Garmin stopped supporting mobile pc here in denmark, so that one is out too, I plan to use sygic in the future, gps ant is allready changed to a usb/serial thing. The powered hub could not run on the 5V rail of the pc so its now power from a cig plug thingy (the kind to charge phones with) modded so it can be under the seat. One thing noted is that my usb soudcard does not have any echo cancel features so I'm going to use the onboard sound for the mic only. Also noted that the bluetooth and video input dongle sometimes disappears and need to be removed and insert again, the video input dongle is in the corner of the tray so that is easy to handle. Might move bluetooth there too. The tire pressure box had to be moved all the way up to just behind the rear mirror. The under seat location did not work as the signals was blocked. Also I changed the dab tuner from a venice 7 to ver 5. even thou downgrading I ended up with better options. All in all I cant figure much left to do, only need a way to remote start the preheater and be able to watch temp in car. remote turn on of pc... hmm... maybe. Might build something myself based on picaxe controller. Other than that I think i only need to check the wiring from the seats and backwards.

    Day 269 A whole new beginning (25-06-2011)

    A few weeks ago I got a vission for "a whole new beginning". Having the pc under the seats are smart, but not in the long run, if you have to spend 10 mins to unbolt and bolt the seats each time a usb dongle needs to be pulled and inserted. So I thought of making a false floor for the boot and have everything there instead. Brewed on the idea for some days and decided that it was the way to go. Since this is much like a new install I will start a new log for this, but here it will start with the box alldready mounted up.
    Last edited by boelle; 06-25-2011, 12:30 PM. Reason: Cleaning up post
    Blessed are the "cracked" for it is they who let in the light.

  • #2
    Looking good Bo!


    • #3
      the coolant sensor would be my best guess yes
      Blessed are the "cracked" for it is they who let in the light.