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amp for 2 10' orion h2

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  • amp for 2 10' orion h2

    just got 2 orion h2's dont know what kind of amp would be good. saw a cheap legacy predator 4000 watts 2 channel would that work or no?

  • #2
    sigh.....

    it's easy:

    you look at what RMS-output your subs have, @ what resistance and you buy an amp that matches up.....


    Oh, one more thing: cheap and car-audio don't go together. if you want something that'll last, you're gonna have to look for something $1 per watt RMS minimum (don't look at max ratings, they're worthless!!!
    Xenia & Isabelle, totally in love!

    'T SQiekenkot: VOLVO 740GL 2.3

    CarPC: none at the moment
    CLARION HX-D2
    CLARION APA4300HX => Fountek NeoCd1.0 + TB W4-1337SD
    CLARION APA4300HX => CSS Trio8
    CLARION APA2100 => Dayton IB385-8

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    • #3
      and you said it yourself.. "cheap legacy" ... i would stay away from legacy and similar brands

      look for a class d mono (subwoofer) amp.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by vipervin View Post
        and you said it yourself.. "cheap legacy" ... i would stay away from legacy and similar brands

        look for a class d mono (subwoofer) amp.

        If the guy was lookin at somecsheap crap, I wouldn't go xwith a class D mono. Instead, I'd go with a nice 2-channel amp and ridge that. That will be a much cheaper solution to a mono.

        just my $.02

        edit: what version of the H2 do you have? the D2 or D4?, if it's the D2 version, look at an amp that's .5Ohm stable. that way you can bridge the 2 channels and let the subs play @ 1 Ohm, which will have a positive result on your funds, because the amp doesn't have to be that powerfull as it would be when you're playing @2 Ohm or 4 Ohm....
        Xenia & Isabelle, totally in love!

        'T SQiekenkot: VOLVO 740GL 2.3

        CarPC: none at the moment
        CLARION HX-D2
        CLARION APA4300HX => Fountek NeoCd1.0 + TB W4-1337SD
        CLARION APA4300HX => CSS Trio8
        CLARION APA2100 => Dayton IB385-8

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        • #5
          class d is however much more efficient and will handle the demand for a subwoofer channel much better than class a/b can ever handle.

          cardomain.com:
          "An amp's circuit design determines its class of operation. Class A amps sound great, but because of power inefficiency and high heat production they're used mostly for home systems, not cars. Class AB amps are commonly used in vehicles, because they provide low distortion, good reliability, and reasonable efficiency. Class D amps produce less heat, require less current, perform more efficiently, and are smaller than Class AB amps, but they tend to have more distortion. For this reason, they make great subwoofer amps since the distortion is almost impossible to detect in the low frequency ranges that subs play."

          crutchfield.com
          "A mono amplifier makes a great choice for powering subwoofers. They're specifically designed for low-frequency reproduction, with built-in bass boost and low-pass filters. Class D mono amps are often a good choice — they draw less current, produce less heat, and are more efficient than conventional amp designs."

          i can give you more cites if you dont like those sources

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          • #6
            you don't have to hand me any sources, I know my stuff. And yes, I know, a class D is much more efficient, but I was thinking along the line of the guy's budget since he was talking about a fleamarket brand in the first place

            Oh, and while a class D might be more efficient, the SQ is far less than with an A or AB.... Now, you might argue that doesn't matter as much with a sub, you're probably right. But a class D will also introduce more noise along the signal path, unless they found a way around that in the last, say, 2 years.
            Xenia & Isabelle, totally in love!

            'T SQiekenkot: VOLVO 740GL 2.3

            CarPC: none at the moment
            CLARION HX-D2
            CLARION APA4300HX => Fountek NeoCd1.0 + TB W4-1337SD
            CLARION APA4300HX => CSS Trio8
            CLARION APA2100 => Dayton IB385-8

            Comment


            • #7
              while a class d may introduce more noise along the signal path, this signal path will be independent of the component (mid/high freq) channels. noise in the sub channel isnt easily detectable. in general, any type of noise is usually more of a grounding issue than the way an amp is manufactured.

              however, i do agree with you that if we are talking about an expensive SQ-competition setup, than yeah.. the smaller factors will matter

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              • #8
                so what kind of amp would you guys recommend im new to this and dont know about this stuff. im looking to spend like 100-200

                Comment


                • #9
                  100-200??? I'm sorry to have to tell you, but you'll never find an amp that has enough output for those subs.... Not even when you look at fleamaektebrands!!!! you need at LEAST 4000watts RMS (NOT MAX). It's flat-out IMPOSSIBLE!

                  Now, I asked you a question earlier that's very important to detemine which amp you'll need. Do you have the ddouble 2Ohm version or the double 4Ohm version?

                  If you have the double 2Ohm version, you'll need a 0.25Ohm stable amp that you can bridge at 0.5Ohm, or an 8Ohm amp.... Both hard to find, especially on such a low budget. WHat you could do is give each sub it's own channel. that way you only need a 4Ohm or 1Ohm amp.

                  If you have the 4Ohm DVC version, you'll need an amp that's 0.5Ohm stable so you can bridge it at 1Ohm, or you could work with a 16Ohm amp (doen't know if you can still find those even, so that wouldn't be a good plan). Again, you may also give each sub it's own channel.... Then you'll need a 2Ohm of 8 Ohm amp.

                  Now, for you to keep it a cheap as possible, in case you have the 2Ohm dvc version, look for an amp that puts out at least 2 x 2000watts RMS @ 1Ohm. In case you have the 4 Ohm DVC version, look for an amp that puts out at least 2 x 2000watts RMS @ 2Ohm



                  EDIT: I searched some amps and prices, and the CHEAPEST I found that will ACTUALLY put out 2000watts [email protected], is a hifonics BXi2006D. That one costs $348 and you only can power 1 sub off of it....
                  Xenia & Isabelle, totally in love!

                  'T SQiekenkot: VOLVO 740GL 2.3

                  CarPC: none at the moment
                  CLARION HX-D2
                  CLARION APA4300HX => Fountek NeoCd1.0 + TB W4-1337SD
                  CLARION APA4300HX => CSS Trio8
                  CLARION APA2100 => Dayton IB385-8

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    they both are dual 2 ohm but i dont know what that stuff means exactly the amp i was looking at is on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BLUE-...93451705QQrdZ1

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by smurfs122 View Post
                      so what kind of amp would you guys recommend im new to this and dont know about this stuff. im looking to spend like 100-200

                      honestly, i'd rethink your strategy. i'd probably sell one sub and put that money towards the amp. overpowering one sub is going to be a lot 'safer' then underpowering two.


                      if you get an amp that is stable to 1 ohm (the ed nine.1 for instance) you'll be golden. that setup will give you 1200 wrms to a single sub and it will kick the crap out of you.

                      just so you're aware. I had a single 12 image dynamics sub (id12v3) with ~300wrms and i could feel the air rush by my head.

                      my new system is using a different sub with only 500wrms only because i am going to have to keep up with the rest of my system (sound quality wise)

                      now you are trippling the power of my first sub set up with just the single sub set up i suggested... i think you'll be happy.
                      New System in progress:
                      M10k
                      Phaze TD1500 ~> Dynaudio MD130
                      Phaze TD1500 ~> Seas g18rnx/p
                      Zapco Ref 500.1 ~ 12" tc-9
                      Behringer DCX2496 ~ Envision Electronics psu
                      Transflective Xenarc

                      My Car Pc Install
                      My Boat Pc worklog

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                      • #12
                        for some reason, i dont think the original poster is listening to our advice. he is still posting up links to a "PYLE" (of crap) amp, with no mention of true RMS power output.

                        "# 2000 Watts x 2 Output
                        # 4000 Watts x 1 Bridged Output "

                        those numbers are pretty much useless. i had to download the manual to get the real numbers:

                        at 4ohms: 300wrms x2
                        at 2ohms: 450wrms x 2

                        i believe not enough power for your needs

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                        • #13
                          its not that im not listening to you guys i was showing you something and seeing if that would work i dont know what this 2 ohm 4 ohm 8 ohm stuff is thats why im asking you guys. people who know about it

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                          • #14
                            well, then take the advice of scott, sell one sub and power the remaining sub with 2000 watts minimal RMS (like the hifonics I said. You won't find any cheaper unless you're willing to look for second hand.

                            @ scott: the eD has too little output. The H2 is 2000Wrms.
                            Xenia & Isabelle, totally in love!

                            'T SQiekenkot: VOLVO 740GL 2.3

                            CarPC: none at the moment
                            CLARION HX-D2
                            CLARION APA4300HX => Fountek NeoCd1.0 + TB W4-1337SD
                            CLARION APA4300HX => CSS Trio8
                            CLARION APA2100 => Dayton IB385-8

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              sorry ic-c30, i missed that part of your post. Thats a good suggestion. i thnk the sub will be fine wiith either 1200 or 2000 and the ed has a 5 year warranty...it's up to him though, i don't think he could go wrong either way
                              New System in progress:
                              M10k
                              Phaze TD1500 ~> Dynaudio MD130
                              Phaze TD1500 ~> Seas g18rnx/p
                              Zapco Ref 500.1 ~ 12" tc-9
                              Behringer DCX2496 ~ Envision Electronics psu
                              Transflective Xenarc

                              My Car Pc Install
                              My Boat Pc worklog

                              Comment

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