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Drive Series Crunch stuck in protect mode.

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  • Drive Series Crunch stuck in protect mode.

    Don't know what happened, just one day it stoped working. Once it gets power the power level meters' backlights come on and measure the power for a second then drop and on comes the protect L.E.D. and off with the power L.E.D. It's a V-200SE 200 watt RMS DRIVE SERIES CRUNCH car audio amplifier.

    I want to use it in my dorm room for some self constructed subs built into my dresser drawr. This is a truely reliable amp and i'm too poor to afford anything else but to fix this nice peice of work up. Please help me fix this thing.

  • #2
    Have you looked if your wiring is still properly connected?
    Xenia & Isabelle, totally in love!

    'T SQiekenkot: VOLVO 740GL 2.3

    CarPC: none at the moment
    CLARION HX-D2
    CLARION APA4300HX => Fountek NeoCd1.0 + TB W4-1337SD
    CLARION APA4300HX => CSS Trio8
    CLARION APA2100 => Dayton IB385-8

    Comment


    • #3
      Wiring

      Wiring is properly connected. I've taken it apart and have checked the insides. Every thing looks fine. So far i've tested the unit with a car batery charger. With little amperage (not enought to generage audio output) it stays on. Any thing above 10 amps it kicks back into protect. If pictures will help, I will take a few.

      Comment


      • #4
        Is your wiring the proper gauge?
        Xenia & Isabelle, totally in love!

        'T SQiekenkot: VOLVO 740GL 2.3

        CarPC: none at the moment
        CLARION HX-D2
        CLARION APA4300HX => Fountek NeoCd1.0 + TB W4-1337SD
        CLARION APA4300HX => CSS Trio8
        CLARION APA2100 => Dayton IB385-8

        Comment


        • #5
          all 8 guage wiring

          it's worked before with a much worse set up just stopped one day

          Comment


          • #6
            my guess is: Everything worked before because you were pushing your luck, and now, well.... you pushed your luck a little too much..... 8AWG is way to small! Don't ever go under 6AWG (4 would be even better)
            Xenia & Isabelle, totally in love!

            'T SQiekenkot: VOLVO 740GL 2.3

            CarPC: none at the moment
            CLARION HX-D2
            CLARION APA4300HX => Fountek NeoCd1.0 + TB W4-1337SD
            CLARION APA4300HX => CSS Trio8
            CLARION APA2100 => Dayton IB385-8

            Comment


            • #7
              ok, i used 4 guage wiring on every thing (even the remote for fun). still the same problem.

              Comment


              • #8
                your amp is probably damaged the 8 awg has nothing to due with it.

                your 200 watt amp will draw prob 18-25 amp max and 8 awg is good for up to 60 amp from what i have seen on stingers website

                http://stingerelectronics.com/prodDetail.asp?strID=378

                you might want to open the cover and look at the power input circuit and see
                if there looks like anything burnt.

                Comment


                • #9
                  nope i have the top off every thing looks fine. Actually very pretty and shiney for how old it is.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    4ga for 200w? That's pretty extreme.

                    Is this thing in your car right now? I saw you mentioned wanting to use it for some custom thing.

                    Have you checked whatever its connected to (speakerwise) to make sure they aren't blown?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by gt__1 View Post
                      your amp is probably damaged the 8 awg has nothing to due with it.
                      yeah well, if you're so sure about that, tell me why... It's pretty basic knowledge. You should know running such a small wire all the way from the battery to the the trunk, the power can't get through easily with sych a small wire, the wire will heat up and xause all sorts of probs, including this.... Since it was not mentioned how long the cable was, using only 8 AWG COULD have been the problem

                      I'm using competition standards (well, I'm actually going over them, so I'm maybe going extreme to some people...But there's 1problem I won't have: I won't have to be mad at myself that I'd spend $$ on wiring that's just right for the install, but I have to sell and buy new (which cost me more than using bigger wire) because I wanna upgrade or expand my system...) you can never be safe enough. With 8 AWG, you can only go 3meters according to the standards. By the way, I never said he had to use 4AWG, 6would probably been good enough, but I said 4 would be better....

                      Excuse me for wanting to play safe.....
                      Xenia & Isabelle, totally in love!

                      'T SQiekenkot: VOLVO 740GL 2.3

                      CarPC: none at the moment
                      CLARION HX-D2
                      CLARION APA4300HX => Fountek NeoCd1.0 + TB W4-1337SD
                      CLARION APA4300HX => CSS Trio8
                      CLARION APA2100 => Dayton IB385-8

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Ok it's not in a car. I've tested with every thing i can think of. Battery charger will power it but not enough for it to amp the sound waves. With the batter charger on 10 amps or above it has enough power to do so but kicks into protect mode. Same as being in a car(stuck in protect). it'll go into protect on 12 inch sony xpode, 10 inch sony xplode, 15 kicker, and my home made subs. All subs work just fine. Just want to get ol' reliable amp goin again.

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