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sugestions on new speakersetup (pure passive)

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  • sugestions on new speakersetup (pure passive)

    Well, I already posted this on DIYMA (with the wrong title..... DOH....

    But I'm going pure passive with one of the 2-channel amps I got and I need some new drivers that will fit my needs better than the ones I have now. I want to eliminate the subs and work purely on a 3-way frontstage.

    I was looking at the ScanSpeak 21W8555-00 As per sub and kickbass, filtering HP @ 25Hz.... But it might be a different driver aswell if anyone has any sugestions.

    As for a midrange, I have no clue (was thinking softdome), and for the tweeters I want something smooth and laidback like the peerless HDS.

    There's a few issues that come to mind though, mainly with the ScanSpeak driver:

    - average efficiency of 87.5db
    - Enclosure volume (how big should it be?)
    - I only got 2 x 100/120watts to spare depending on which of my 2 2-channels I will use, But ofcourse I'd rather use The MCintosh which gives me 2 x 100watts, instead of the caliber competition series II (from the times when caliber used to make pretty nice amps), which would give me 2 x 120watts though.


    I mainly listen to jazz, so I really want a smooth curve, but LOTS and LOTS of detail, but on the otherhand my taste in music goes as wide and deep as as I want me frontstage to be, so yes, I listen to a wide variety in music, going from trance over rock to hiphop, reggae, pop and even a little classical music could do sometimes.....

    But keep in mind: The main goal is SQ, so I think jazz and classical are the styles to focus on.

    In short: Any sugestions on a 3-way frontstage that also handles sub?


    Thanks
    Xenia & Isabelle, totally in love!

    'T SQiekenkot: VOLVO 740GL 2.3

    CarPC: none at the moment
    CLARION HX-D2
    CLARION APA4300HX => Fountek NeoCd1.0 + TB W4-1337SD
    CLARION APA4300HX => CSS Trio8
    CLARION APA2100 => Dayton IB385-8

  • #2
    I'll have to go look over at DIYMA.

    Where are your planned install locations? Are you more focused on tonality and throwing staging out the window then since you aren't going active? What are your planned crossover points?

    I have no experience with dome mids, so any recommendations would be for cone midrangers. I have tried a bulk of the 3" mids out there, but maybe a 4" or 5.25" would mate better with the 8". I just don't know how much space you are working with. Why would you want to go sealled in the door? Exploit the IB mounting of the door so you can get that low end sensitivity since you want to run subless.

    You want detail? Look for aluminum, magnesium, or fiberglass cone. For a 3incher, the Vifa TG9 is supposed to be a very good performer. I have a pair I bought a while back but haven't listened to them yet.
    System always under construction


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    • #3
      well, here goes:

      1. can't say anything as far as moutinglocations goes since that depends on which drivers I'm going to use and how they sound and at which spot the'll perform in the best manner for me.

      2. Well, actually the main 2 reasons I'm going pure passive is space and power current issues. The amps that I can use for the project aren't exactly small, and my car is just a tiny rustbucket that I''d keer as a daily, so I need as much trunkspace as I can have for groceries and stuff (there you have the reason for going subless in the meanwhile).

      My car's a citroŽn AX MKII (still, yes), and the front doors are about, let's say 15liters, maybe 20 with the air-gaps included. Not that much to work with at all.....

      Alucones would indeed be an option, but then again..... Nothing beats paper....

      And there's something I forgot to mention..... I want to buy pretty much the same setup for home-use, so it wouldn't be a constant change.... And since I live in a concrete 250sq ft (not 150 as mentioned at diyma , alucones wouldn't be that great of an idea to avoid reflections.
      Xenia & Isabelle, totally in love!

      'T SQiekenkot: VOLVO 740GL 2.3

      CarPC: none at the moment
      CLARION HX-D2
      CLARION APA4300HX => Fountek NeoCd1.0 + TB W4-1337SD
      CLARION APA4300HX => CSS Trio8
      CLARION APA2100 => Dayton IB385-8

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by XC-C30 View Post
        My car's a citroŽn AX MKII (still, yes), and the front doors are about, let's say 15liters, maybe 20 with the air-gaps included. Not that much to work with at all.....
        So that is what you think the airspace in the door is, or that is how much you could get if you built a sealed enclosure in there? What is your max mounting depth?

        Alucones would indeed be an option, but then again..... Nothing beats paper....
        I prefer paper too, but aluminum and fiberglass give better detail from what I have learned by reading and by experimentation, although it could vary from driver to driver. I find that I don't like alum, becuase it soudns very cold to me-not really my type of sound. Fiberglass is a nice combo of paper and alum, gives you great detail with less cone breakup and still gives you some of the warmth that paper gives you.[/quote]

        And there's something I forgot to mention..... I want to buy pretty much the same setup for home-use, so it wouldn't be a constant change.... And since I live in a concrete 250sq ft (not 150 as mentioned at diyma , alucones wouldn't be that great of an idea to avoid reflections.
        Wow 250 sqft is tiny! I can't even imagine! Do you live in a jail cell?

        I'd have to dig up some threads over there at DIYMA. I post them up in your other thread and hopefully get some others to chime in. I ahve a feeling alot of them might try to convince you to go 2-way, especially if you are going with large format tweets. I think the HDS tweeter is probably a very good choice and hard to beat.

        Do you have a budget?
        System always under construction


        Comment


        • #5
          1. Yup, that's about the airspace in my door. Mountingdepth isn't really an issue, I could always work with a mounting ring.

          2. I got a couple of polypropilene kicks already that I might want to test, but the Fs is only 50Hz, so I'd still need to use a sub and that's pretty much out of the question sice I got a really tiny trunk.

          Budget..... Hmmmm As long as it doesn't exeeds like 750-800euro's I'm fine, so yeah pretty good budget to work with.

          The reason I wanted to go 3-way was mainly because of the ScanSpeak woofer I mentioned earlier. I'm afraid it will lack in mid and certainly high-mid and that's something I want to avoid.

          My GF has a set of B&W DM2a's at home (30+ years old 2.5-way studio monitor) which lack of detail in mid due to the fact that it's al being pushed by the 8" woofer (on top of that enclosed in a TL enclosure). And that really is something I can't stand, so therefore I was thinking of using a nice midrange. The reason of choise fo a dome was actually because they are known to be pretty smooth and I really hate bumps in my curve....
          Xenia & Isabelle, totally in love!

          'T SQiekenkot: VOLVO 740GL 2.3

          CarPC: none at the moment
          CLARION HX-D2
          CLARION APA4300HX => Fountek NeoCd1.0 + TB W4-1337SD
          CLARION APA4300HX => CSS Trio8
          CLARION APA2100 => Dayton IB385-8

          Comment


          • #6
            I think those scans would probably work great for your low end/midbass.

            Another option maybe? Peerless SLS 830667-specs are similar to a car audio driver

            "1 to 1.5 cubic feet sealed for F3 of 47Hz" and with cabin gain I think you would probably acheive a flat response possibly down to 20Hz.

            I haven't ever really ever looked at dome mids. I'm going to bump your thread at DIYMA.
            System always under construction


            Comment

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