Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Opinions on ground wire location....

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Opinions on ground wire location....

    A buddy of mine has his car wired so the speaker wires run alongside the passenger side of the car and all power wires run along the drivers side. He now wants to run a negative ground wire (I think it is 4 gauge) from the battery to the rear of the car but is not sure what side of the car he should run it.

    I'd like to hear the opinions of others. Would you run the ground wire on the drivers side with the power wires, the passenger side with the speaker wires or doesn't it make any difference?

    Thanks in advance to all who respond.
    "Imagination is more important than knowledge." -AE

  • #2
    Since the ground is a power cable, I'd run the ground on teh side with all the other power cables.
    Although the ground could (should?) be connected to a heavy-duty chassis bolt, on an area that has been groung clean of any paint, dirt, debris, etc. That would save running a ground the entire length of the car.

    And the ground wire running with audio signal cables could make a difference.
    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
    How about the Wiki?



    Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

    Comment


    • #3
      I believe you should run the negative wire, along with the positive wire. But why do you need to do that? You can find a nice place(maybe in the boot) that is predrilled, sand it down using some 200 sandpaper, clean it with acetone, and use it as your ground. Someone may confirm that you can apply some grease also to avoid oxidation. Then, you can use a distribution block, to "share" your ground to all your devices. Care must be taken, that all interconnected devices, share the same ground (possibly through the distribution block) as to avoid picking up noise. No fuse is needed there of course, since even in the case something bad happens and a negative wire is shorted, the voltage drop is negligibly low to provide harmful amount of current!!!

      Sorry for my English, might have done some mistakes above!

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by qpwoeiruty999 View Post
        I believe you should run the negative wire, along with the positive wire. But why do you need to do that? You can find a nice place(maybe in the boot) that is predrilled, sand it down using some 200 sandpaper, clean it with acetone, and use it as your ground. [HL]Someone may confirm that you can apply some grease also to avoid oxidation.[/HL] Then, you can use a distribution block, to "share" your ground to all your devices. Care must be taken, that all interconnected devices, share the same ground (possibly through the distribution block) as to avoid picking up noise. No fuse is needed there of course, since even in the case something bad happens and a negative wire is shorted, the voltage drop is negligibly low to provide harmful amount of current!!!

        Sorry for my English, might have done some mistakes above!
        I wouldn't do that, it will cause a poor ground connection if applied before screwing or bolting down. You could get some of that stuff they spray on battery terminals if you are worried about rust after you have connected it.

        Either one of the recommendations above has my vote.
        System always under construction


        Comment


        • #5
          There is absolutely no need to run a cable back for ground. A car automatically provides grounding anywhere on the chassis. Just find a piece of bare exposed metal and connect to that for ground.
          www.computer-forums.net

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by kostyanj View Post
            There is absolutely no need to run a cable back for ground. A car automatically provides grounding anywhere on the chassis. Just find a piece of bare exposed metal and connect to that for ground.
            And this is the #1 way a ground loop is introduced. I'd run the wire back if that's where everything else is connected since the copper wire would have less resistance than a steel car chassis.
            "You're just about as useless as JPEGs to Helen Keller" - Wierd Al

            Comment


            • #7
              Without going into too much detail:
              A longer ground = more resistance in ground = greater potential for ground differential (ground loop noise)

              The chasis is the best place to ground everything. And going to the battery for ground is actually more harmfull than helpful as some may think. The best way to gain efficiency in your grounding wire is to do the BIG 3 UPGRADE. Also in some instances, the BIG 3 UPGRADE is not an option, its a must.
              "In the beginners mind there are many possibilities, but in the experts mind there are few."- Shunryu Suzuki
              "Do it right or don't do it at all"

              PROGRESS:
              [-------90%-] (New Car=New Build)

              Comment


              • #8


                Longer wire = bad
                www.computer-forums.net

                Comment


                • #9

                  Always make a groundwire as short as possible. Was once told to never make it longer than 3 feet. The ones I use for my amps are about 1 foot.
                  And btw, always use same size or larger wire for ground, as for power. :-)
                  If you can't drive a stick... You can't drive!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    What does "cross sectional area" Mean? I would assume that means what wires it runs along with. IF thats the case I have my ground which is about 12 inches long and it comes out with the power and lead wires is that bad?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      My old amp setup:
                      Grounded under the trunk to the body
                      problem: ground loop noise
                      solution: ground loop isolator

                      I would definitly ground to the body as close as you can, shorter does equal better (as has been said). but on occasion due to multiple grounds (espeically if your head unit grounds to - and your amp grounds to the body, or vise versa) you will have a strange fuzzy wah sound (caused by a ground loop). You can go to any auto store and look in the audio section and get a ground loop isolator, they also sell them at radio-hut if you need them pre-adapted to RCA.

                      Also, you can run into the same problem if you run a very long ground, if the ground is longer than the speaker cables then the amp may ground through them (because electricty takes the path of least resistance).

                      Both ways are 'right' and work, but for the sake of time and effort grounding to the body is your best bet, just be prepared to drop somewhere between $10 and $30 on an isolator and any adapters or plugs you might need.

                      Oh, and if you really do decide to go and run that wire, keep it with the + wire, not only do you keep it with related wires, it totally rules out the possibility of interference with the speaker wires.
                      '93 Camry - Work Log
                      Progress (Slow and Steady)
                      █████████
                      Phase 1: Planning and Software Procurement
                      Total Cost So Far: $75

                      Free Laptop Parts (DVD ROM!)

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by westcoastrocks View Post
                        What does "cross sectional area" Mean? I would assume that means what wires it runs along with. IF thats the case I have my ground which is about 12 inches long and it comes out with the power and lead wires is that bad?
                        Cross sectional area is if you were to take your wire and cut it, and measure the area of the thickness.
                        I believe its usuall meaused in sq-millimeters. (dont quote me on that It's been a while)
                        "In the beginners mind there are many possibilities, but in the experts mind there are few."- Shunryu Suzuki
                        "Do it right or don't do it at all"

                        PROGRESS:
                        [-------90%-] (New Car=New Build)

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Personaly I think this is a biased Question. Ive grounded to metal floor pans before, just as everyone else has. Ive also went directly to the frame (truck installs) currently I am running my ground directly to the battery, I also have done the big three. The set up works great for me. Normaly with a bad ground no matter where it is at can and will lead to Ground loop, Amps overheating, Lights dimming, blown amps, ect. I think the reason to make your ground run that long is based on the car. In my car I measured less resistance running all the way to the battery. Ive never had any problems with it,
                          Aron
                          New Ipad
                          Zapco DSP-6SL
                          Zapco Reference 360.4: H-Audio Soul, x2 right side
                          Zapco Reference 360.4: H-Audio Soul, x2 left side
                          Zapco Reference 500.1: JL Audio 10W3V3 Stealth box

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by boomintrac View Post
                            Personaly I think this is a biased Question. Ive grounded to metal floor pans before, just as everyone else has. Ive also went directly to the frame (truck installs) currently I am running my ground directly to the battery, I also have done the big three. The set up works great for me. Normaly with a bad ground no matter where it is at can and will lead to Ground loop, Amps overheating, Lights dimming, blown amps, ect. I think the reason to make your ground run that long is based on the car. In my car I measured less resistance running all the way to the battery. Ive never had any problems with it,
                            Aron
                            Sure, they all work, but it's so much easier to ground to the body than the battery

                            I've never really had to use an isolator when grounded to the body, only on my sirius radio (just so happened that my cigarette lighter's ground wasn't connected to anything, and it didn't ground through the - O.o).

                            If it were me i'd ground to the body first, if i ran into trouble and had the patience i'd run the wire to the battery. But thats just me.
                            '93 Camry - Work Log
                            Progress (Slow and Steady)
                            █████████
                            Phase 1: Planning and Software Procurement
                            Total Cost So Far: $75

                            Free Laptop Parts (DVD ROM!)

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Couldnt be said any easier.
                              Aron
                              New Ipad
                              Zapco DSP-6SL
                              Zapco Reference 360.4: H-Audio Soul, x2 right side
                              Zapco Reference 360.4: H-Audio Soul, x2 left side
                              Zapco Reference 500.1: JL Audio 10W3V3 Stealth box

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X