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  • Stereo upgrade, please advise

    Hi,

    I have a Altima 2.5SL with Bose 8-speaker system, the bass seems to be somewhat too much and doesn't go too low. So I was thinking of getting some 6x9 and replace the rear deck speakers as they're just woofers.

    Went to a car stereo shop and they don't recommend that, I really should get a 10" sealed sub with an amp for it. So here's what they recommend:

    Bassworx Amp 500W Class D - BA500.1D
    Bassworx 10" Sealed box - GS10R
    Alpine 10" Type E 4Ohm Sub - SWE-1042

    Then we're talking about overall sound upgrade, then he recommended to start with the deck and don't go anywhere without replacing the deck first? I seem to get this comments quite a lot, so here's the remaining:

    Alpine CD deck - CDA-9883
    Amp kit, harness for Nissan, etc.

    I was told the Alpine can hook into the existing Bose amp, but my question is, without an amp upgrade, how much of a difference will I be able to notice? There'll be no speaker upgrades either.

    I'm leasing the car for another 2 years, so I don't want to do much modifications if not needed. But I do want to enjoy the music for the next 2 years. May still decide to keep the car, but not 100% sure yet.

    If I want better sound, should I start with the deck upgrade, or sub first? Are the gears reasonable?

    Thanks for your help.<br /><br />

  • #2
    well if you dont upgrade the deck then you will need to use a LOC(line out converter) for the sub amplifier(if you decide to add a new substage).
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    • #3
      As far as I know, bose systems run on 1 ohm. I dont know if this is still true for the newer generation of altimas and maximas. If it still runs on 1 ohm and you do get a new headunit, the speakers will pop everytime you there is a break in music from skipping, changing sources, etc.

      If all you really want is just some lower bass, i would recommend getting a subwoofer also.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by volum3rider View Post
        As far as I know, bose systems run on 1 ohm. I dont know if this is still true for the newer generation of altimas and maximas. If it still runs on 1 ohm and you do get a new headunit, the speakers will pop everytime you there is a break in music from skipping, changing sources, etc.
        I believe thats only true if you completely bypass the factory amplifier and wire the speakers directly to the headunit. It is still possible to integrate the factory amplifer with the new headunit with a premium sound output converter (its a lot like a LOC) and you'd be able to dodge any problems with popping or the need to replace all of the speakers.
        But if it were me, I'd take out every piece of the factory system out, pour some gasoline on it, set it a blaze, and pee on the ashes. But thats just me.
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        • #5
          i would keep the headunit and the speakers, but just add an amp and sub, you'll get more deep bass and you'll save some money, if the bose system is anything like the regular nissan stereo, it's pretty clean, pretty loud, and pretty well layed out (all of these for an OEM stereo).

          Then if/when you're ready to take the plunge you can use the amp and sub later.

          as for the alpine E, it sounds good to me, i don't know about the amp, never heard of it.

          If you're looking for a deep bass i'd consider going with a 12in sub, correct me if i'm wrong but usually you'll get lower with a 12 over a 10.

          edit: just remembered you're leasing.

          I'd definitly only go with the sub and amp if anything. make sure you cover any drill holes with carpet before you bring the car back in
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          • #6
            I believe thats only true if you completely bypass the factory amplifier and wire the speakers directly to the headunit. It is still possible to integrate the factory amplifer with the new headunit with a premium sound output converter (its a lot like a LOC) and you'd be able to dodge any problems with popping or the need to replace all of the speakers.
            Yes you are correct. That can be done.


            If you're looking for a deep bass i'd consider going with a 12in sub, correct me if i'm wrong but usually you'll get lower with a 12 over a 10.
            Usually that is true. A larger diameter sub can usually go lower in frequency than a smaller diameter sub. Depends on the brands and quality of the subs though.

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            • #7
              actually depends on specs, not quality or brand.... So you really can't generalize that. My 8" has an Fs of 25Hz. A 12" peerless XXLS has an Fs of 17.7.... An 8" soundstream has an Fs of 40Hz and it's not a crappy sub at all, just has to be used differently.....
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              • #8
                Thank you guys for the suggestion. I'm thinking of doing it in 2 stages:

                first get a new head unit and integrates with the factory Bose amp
                if bass is still lacking, then proceed with the sub (sub mounted in the trunk with sub amp)

                The reason for head unit upgrade first is, I'm considering overall sound quality upgrade, then I may not need the 2nd step to get a separate sub.

                I have another head unit that I'm considering:

                http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pn...tailsComponent

                I was told the Pioneer has better radio tuner, is that true? It has Bluetooth integrated but not sure if it will work with my phones (Moto Q and Palm 700Vx).

                As for the Alpine, I'm considering an upgrade to the one I previously posted, how is this one:

                http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/prod...model=CDA-9887

                Disappointed about the auto EQ function with Alpine though, it seems like once you engage the auto EQ, you can't use any other settings, so it's like all auto or manual, but not both.

                Thanks again.

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                • #9
                  i'd be careful when you upgrade the unit,
                  leases will usually consider upgrading the head unit as "damage" to the car, and i know nissan is famous for having low tolerance for damage and high repair costs.

                  but, it's your car.
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