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  • My amp keeps cutting out

    I just got done this afternoon installing my amp. its a Lanzar VIBE 436. I have a serious problem of the amp just cutting out in the middle of a song. this is my 3rd amp and all of them had the same problem. The first amp i had was a 1000 watt pyramid and it had the same problem. i sent it back and got a 1600 watt pyramid hoping the problem would be solved, it wasnt. and the third one i got today as a gift. but ill try and explain this the best i can. i will be driving down the road and in the middle of a song the bass will just cut out. when this happens the protect light comes on. if i shut the radio off and reset the amp it works again but theres no telling for how long. ive asked numerous people and no one in the area seems to have a clue of what the problem might be. if anyone has any ideas they would be greatly appreiated.

  • #2
    Well...the issue is in one of two places. The head unit or the wiring to the AMP. Is the wiring to the amp rated to handle the size you are pushing? What is the gauge of the wire and how is it grounded? Second, I've had my protect light come on when the line level in is too high. So if you have an input knob, I'd turn it back to less than 3/4 of full. Otherwise, I'd see if I could get my hands on a different head unit, or have a buddy try out the amp in their car. But 3 amps and the same problem...it definitely isn't in the amp.
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    • #3
      its a four gauge wire which i was told was enough to run what i had and the head unit is a Dual XDMR7710 which is a little under a year old and its done it just about from the start

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      • #4
        Originally posted by mikhel22 View Post
        its a four gauge wire which i was told was enough to run what i had and the head unit is a Dual XDMR7710 which is a little under a year old and its done it just about from the start
        Check your wiring...especially the ground...if you have a loose connection it might trigger the fault light. Then turn down your inputs.... That fault cut out is your friend. Otherwise you could blow your amp and subs. That would really suck.
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        • #5
          i no its a good thing when the protect light comes on but it gets really old and starts to get on ur nerves after a while. i just want it to work how its supposed to without any problems. iv checked the ground and it is a good ground. this is probably a simple question but im pretty new at this and dont know what everything is called yet, as far as turning down the inputs, do u mean the amount of power that the sub is gettin from the amp?

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          • #6
            no problem..
            Try this.

            http://www.lanzar.com/manuals/VIBE22...16-426-436.pdf

            Page 2, upper right picture, #1.

            Also, as per page 9 of the manual:

            Protection Led Comes On When The Amplifier Is Powered Up
            Check for shorts on speaker leads.
            Check that the volume control on the head unit is turned down low.
            Remove speaker leads, and reset the amplifier. If the Protection LED still comes on, then the amplifier is faulty.
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            • #7
              thats what i meant about the input levels and there less then half, and as far as page nine, when i turn the radio on the protect light isnt on, it only comes on after being used at a medium to high volume which as far as i understood wasnt what the manual was saying, it was sayin that as soon as you turn on the amp the protect light comes on. is that correct or am i understanding it wrong.

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              • #8
                Sounds like it all points to the head unit or RCA's going to the amp. Try turning the input level way down to like 25%. Then maybe it won't fault once you get to a medium or high level of radio volume.
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                • #9
                  alright thanks, ill try that in the morning and ill post the results tomorrow. thanks for your help

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                  • #10
                    Questions for you:

                    1) Where do you ground the amp?
                    2) What is the amp pushing? Sub and 2 speakers? pair of 10's? 4 speakers?
                    3) If you have subs connected, what are they? (Model numbers would be great)
                    4) Where is the amp mounted?

                    Based on everything you've said so far, it sounds like you're either running into an impedance problem (which could include roasted subs), or you have a poor ground.

                    Your headunit really can't cause the amp to shut down. It can cause it to have a poor signal/sound quality, but your Dual should be OK for that.

                    Your RCAs could cause problems, however, if they were pinched and touching metal somewhere. Maybe they're pinched where your seat hinges, under the carpet somewhere... it happens. Some amps can handle the load because of complex circuitry, other amps shut down because it's safe and "reliable" way to protect the amp. If you ran your own speaker wire, check this for pinches as well.

                    To check these issues:
                    1) make sure if you're sub's final impedance load is something the amp can handle. Your amp can handle a 2ohm-stereo load minimum, which essentially is the same thing as a 4ohm-mono load (bridged). If you don't know how to figure this out, let me know.
                    If the above seems OK, move to the next check.

                    2)Check your RCAs and speaker wires for problems. The quick way to test this is to use your iPod or car stereo and run a fresh set of RCAs into your amp's inputs. Drive around like you normally do and see if it cuts out. The speaker wire is a bit harder, so if it cuts out still after the RCA test, you might as well check the RCA and the speaker wire by tracing them back from the amp to the source.

                    3)Amp placement. You need to have at least an inch or two of clearance above the amp for air to be able to pass over it. If you have it in a cramped area the amp might be getting hot. Heat is the number one enemy of electronics.

                    4) The ground wire check... If the amp doesn't have a nice, solid ground it can't transfer the power. During light play and early on, the amp doesn't require a heavy amount of juice and the power it's able to squeeze through it's ground is ok. When your crank it up, listen for a long time, play something that has heavy bass, etc, the amp needs to be able to move the energy effortlessly in order to make power.

                    That's a long one, but this should get down to the problem.

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                    • #11
                      I have a 1993 chevy s10 blazer and I have the ground wire mounted to the floor board under the carpet in the back i believe. its been over a year since we installed it but im 99 percent sure thats how its mounted. I ran all my own wireing and its not under the seats. i have it going under the door jams and under the carpet once it gets to the back so im fairly certain nothings pinched or cut. im fairly new at this, im only a senior in highschool and this is my first system so im not very knowledgable on the matter. the amp that is connected now is a lanzar viberant 2000W max power, the model number is Vibe 436. the sub is a 12'' Power Acoustik with 1000w max power and 500w RMS,it is a dual voice coil so im not sure if that makes a difference in what you think the problem is, the model number is BM-12W. the way i have the sub hooked to the amp is 4 wires coming from the back of the box going to the amp, the first voice coil is connected to channel 1 positive and channel 2 negitive, the second voice coil is channel 3 positive and channel 4 negitive. is this correct or is that connected wrong? Im not quite sure how to figure out the impedence and see if there both compatible, i have an idea but thats about it. when you say check the RCA's, is that the wires coming from the radio and battery to the amp or am i totally wrong? as far as the amp placement, it is mounted on the side wall of the car, theres room behind the amp for me to put both hands so im pretty sure it has enough air getting to it. I only have the one sub at the time connected to the amp, once i get the problem fixed i plan on getting another sub to go with it.

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                      • #12
                        Hello,

                        Okay I think this may help if I'm reading correctly you only have 1 sub and if from your description of the way its connected to your 4 channel amp it is wired incorrectly. You should be able to follow the diagram below courtesy of SoundDomain and correct your issue.

                        Click image for larger version

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                        With your amp I'd bridge 2 channels as seen below from the manual for your amp

                        Click image for larger version

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                        Also make sure your ground wire is the same gauge or larger than your power I believe you said 4 agw. When you connected your ground to the chasis of your vehicle did you grind off paint to bare metal? If not you will want to do so.

                        Heres a link to Sound Domain wiring wizard really usefull
                        My Install

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                        • #13
                          thanks for the tips man, I'll try that tomorrow after I get off school and post the results. But the ground wire is the same size as the power and when I attached it to the chasis we ground off the paint and put it on bare metal so its set up right.

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                          • #14
                            ok I wired everything exactly the way the diagram said and at first it seemed to be working but after about 3 or 4 minutes it still had the same problem. I have thought in the past and have had other people tell me that I might need a capacitor, do you think this would help and if so do I need to get a 2000 watt or can I get away with a smaller one?

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                            • #15
                              OK, sorry for the delay in response.. Had a busy weekend.

                              I'm not familiar with that woofer, and it's not on PA's website, but I'm going to assume you have a dual 4-ohm woofer. Does your box have a single terminal coming out the back, or two (one for each woofer)?

                              From your description it sounds like you have your 4-channel amp bridged down to a two-channel amp and then each of the woofer's coils onto the bridged channels 1/2 and 3/4. If that's the case, then you should be fine, assuming the woofer is a dual 4-ohm coil, as each bridged mono channel will see a 4-ohm mono load. Again, your amp will accept up to a 2-ohm stereo load, which is the same as a 4-ohm mono.
                              However, running your system this way does cause some problems for both the woofer and the amp. Amps are not perfect and the 2 front channels on the amp will not always produce the same power as the rear, even if the gain dials are set in the EXACT same place. You would need a multimeter and a test-tone CD, measure the output of both channels with the meter while playing the CD to get them as close to the same out put as possible. Not doing so can cause damage to your equipment, more than likely the sub, as the amp is delivering an unbalanced signal to the coils and they will not play nicely together as they will tell the motor assembly to move the same cone at different rates.

                              You said you tried three other amps and had the same issue, so the problem has to be in the problem needs to be narrowed down still.
                              Kimota was on the right track, but your amp can't handle a 2-ohm load to a single channel. (nice diagram btw, I work for CarDomain. )Do you know what your voice coils are? PA has had some wacky designs:
                              Dual 4-ohm
                              Dual 2-ohm
                              Quad 1-ohm
                              etc

                              A cap MIGHT help your problem, assuming the problem is power related, but I don't think it is. IF your amps are cutting out at all volume levels, then it's not power. The general rule for caps is 1fd for every 1000watts.

                              It really sounds like you have a impedance issue or a wiring issue to me.

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