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Can I use carpet underlay as sound dampener in doors? How do I stick it on?

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  • Can I use carpet underlay as sound dampener in doors? How do I stick it on?

    Hi.

    My parents had a new house built and I found 2 rolls of carpet underlay (I think thats what its called...it looks like thick foam) in the basement. This stuff is quite thick and the first thing that came to mind was that I can use it as sound deadener. I flicked my finger at the material...and it seems to be pretty good at absorbing sound. Currently, my two rear doors have been deadened with an asphalt based material that was probably designed for roofs. My trunk and front doors are stock.

    So I am thinking about using this carpet underlay material as sound deadener in my front doors and trunk. I was initially planning on buying some real deadener next summer to do my front doors...but I am thinking maybe this underlay stuff will suffice? What do you guys think? Will it work well? This stuff is thicker than sound deadener, but less dense..yet it appears that it would be good at absorbing high frequency sounds. I dont want to waste a weekend applying this stuff only to not notice any difference.

    The only problem with this material is that it is not sticky. Is there some sort of permanent glue (that I can get at home depot) that you guys can recommend to bond the foam to my metal doors? I live in Canada where there are both hot (35C) and cold (-45C) climate extremes...so the glue would need to stand up to that.

    Opinions welcome.

  • #2
    The main issue with that type of foam is that it is probably open celled, meaning it will absorb moisture. If you have this inside of your doors, which you should if you want to deaden sound properly, moisture from the outside will be soaked up in this foam and start to cause odors... not a good thing.

    Using it in the trunk probably won't be an issue as it is enclosed. The floors could probably use some as well and you could use some 3M (or similar) spray adhesive to get the stuff to stick.
    DON'T PANIC.

    Previous install pics in 2k3 S10

    Project CarPc V2

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    • #3
      Originally posted by stealinfool View Post
      The main issue with that type of foam is that it is probably open celled, meaning it will absorb moisture. If you have this inside of your doors, which you should if you want to deaden sound properly, moisture from the outside will be soaked up in this foam and start to cause odors... not a good thing.

      Using it in the trunk probably won't be an issue as it is enclosed. The floors could probably use some as well and you could use some 3M (or similar) spray adhesive to get the stuff to stick.
      i agree. but just a side note Second Skin Rattle pad is open celled, but its been treated with a chemical to avoid that

      even though Overkill(closed cell) might be more suited for this application just thought id throw it out there that some companies will treat that.
      screen name here use to be MegaloRESE15"

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      • #4
        I have thought about the moisture issue. However..in my doors, there is a plastic weatherproofing material which separates the metal door from the plastic interior door panel. In fact, the manufacturer even already has some pieces of foam in this area (I dont know what they are for). I was thinking about using proper sound deadening material to keep the metal door panels from vibrating...then using my carpet padding to block the higher frequencies by gluing them to the plastic door panel. I just need to know what to look for in a glue that will bond the underlay to my door panel.

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        • #5
          Super 77 i should do the trick. make sure you wipe down panel with a degreecer though first so the glue sticks to panel and not grime and dirt
          screen name here use to be MegaloRESE15"

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          • #6
            So with that glue...can I just spray it onto the pad and just press the pad against the surface I want it bonded to? Will I have to keep constant pressure on the area, or will it just stick like a piece of tape (keep in mind that this foam is fairly thick and resists bending more than a piece of tape).

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            • #7
              Most of the spray adhesives will be fine. The ones I have used so far have different suggestions based on the goal (ie..permanent or temporary bonding), and will generally have you spray one (or both) sides to be bonded, allow them to sit for 1-5 minutes (for air/gas to escape), and then press them together (and yes, they hold right away, normally no need to apply constant pressure).

              I did this with 2 second skin products (OverKill and OverKill pro) which were .125" and .375" thick respectively, so you should have no problem. All I did was lay the vapor barrier out on the uncut pads, cut the pad to fit, and trimmed all required holes for wiring to pass through. Worked well, though I would still be somewhat hesitant about using an open cell foam, but it will probably be fine of course (;

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              • #8
                Personally, I wouldn't use carpet underlay in the doors. It will absorb water.
                In the trunk would probably be ok though...............
                For once you have tasted flight you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skywards, for there you have been and there you will long to return.
                Leonardo Da Vinci

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                • #9
                  I agree with JKrepps as far as application goes. I would think any where inside the car except the doors would be okay to put it. Many automakers use padding under the carpet and in the trunk, and I would think this would be like adding more. I am not sure how effective it would be, probably not as good as proper sound deadner, but it can't hurt.
                  Yeah google!

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                  • #10
                    Seeing how it's free, it's worth a try.


                    Just not in a wet location.

                    Cheers
                    For once you have tasted flight you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skywards, for there you have been and there you will long to return.
                    Leonardo Da Vinci

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                    • #11
                      if you go to the dynamat or damplifier web site you will see how it works the carpet will not work in the same way. but to make it a little bit easy for you I'll give you this web site that other of the guys here found before there you will learn everything you need to know about this stuffs and what to get depends on your budget.

                      http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
                      One of the best way to learn is making mistakes, But much better when you learn from someone else mistakes

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                      • #12
                        hows the rubberlike under lay?

                        its not as thick but it has ribs of hollow rubber running through it.
                        looks like the stuff on this site but black
                        http://www.airstep.com.au/

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Perrosky View Post
                          if you go to the dynamat or damplifier web site you will see how it works the carpet will not work in the same way. but to make it a little bit easy for you I'll give you this web site that other of the guys here found before there you will learn everything you need to know about this stuffs and what to get depends on your budget.

                          http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

                          yup i have read that site many times, i even spoke with the guy wo did all the testing on the site he also wants to add cascade and hushmat to the list.
                          cliff notes for the op on that site(i still suggest you take a look at it):
                          great product for deadening with money being an issue is Raamat
                          great product overall without money being an issue Second Skin.


                          also to the OP, carpet would not be the best choice for deadening, you want to massload the door and not just cover it up with material. The mat will massload the door and stop it from resonating as much, make sure you find a way to cover any unnecessary holes in the doors to keep it sealed as much as possible. the next step on top of the mat would be a liquid deadener, this will "treat" the door in 2 ways, 1. it will make the mat more rigid and 2. will filter out certain other frequencies that the mat cannot do. Now the final step is using closed cell foam(or an open cell, but make sure its treated with a chemical to prevent bacteria growth). This foam will stop the higher frequencies(such as road noise) and absorb standing waves from mids. make sure you try to much of this suggestions on the inside(behind mids) and outside(where door panel clips to) of door. in the end your midbass response will be outstanding and you will have a more comfortable ride by eliminating lots of road noise
                          screen name here use to be MegaloRESE15"

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                          • #14
                            Thanks for the replies everyone. I have also read that site many times. I do realize that I need to massload my doors. That is why I am proposing to put the carpet underlay between the weather barrier and my interior plastic door panel. This is what my door looks like:

                            Outside | Metal door | Plastic weather proof material | Plastic door panel | Interior

                            I can always add the mass loading material later on the inside of the metal door itself next summer.

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                            • #15
                              I don't think you will find any spray glue strong enough to hold up the weight of that stuff.

                              I know it's free, but I'd really consider an alternate route.

                              ensolite from raamaudio is fairly cheap if all you want is high frequency absorber that is closed cell foam. he also sells some super high strength spray glue.

                              really a good combo is to mass load+barrier+ensolite on top, so in other words, raammat or second skin, + ensolite.

                              There are some other materials out there, but that is probably the most cost effective. It sucks to half *** something, then it ruins your car, and you have to take the time to fix then do it right a second time IMO.
                              System always under construction


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