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  • Sound System Help

    Originally posted by Michael1 View Post
    I'm just wondering if this amp will work with this sub
    will it work? yes... are they a match made in heaven? no...

    that amp can handle a 2-ohm stereo load or a 4-ohm bridged load. according to the specs, it will output a "clean" 170w (210w >1% THD) per channel RMS @4-ohms un-bridged. it will output a "clean" 330w (450w >1% THD) @2-ohms bridged.

    that sub is rated for 1000w RMS (the specs do not state the minimum power required). it is a dual voice coil sub, each coil is 2-ohms...

    there are 4 ways ways to wire that up, 2 will fry the amp, 2 will work, 1 way is best:
    1.) wire the sub's voice coils in parallel; this will present a single 1-ohm load to the amplifier. since that amp cannot handle a 1-ohm load in any configuration, this way will FRY THE AMP!!
    2.) bridge two amp channels and connect only 1 voice coil; this will present a single 2-ohm load to the amplifier. that amp can handle a 2-ohm load in stereo mode but not in bridged mode, so this way will also FRY THE AMP!!
    3.) wire the sub's voice coils independently to 1 amp channel each (leave the amp un-bridged): this will present a 2-ohm load to each un-bridges amp channel. this is safe for the amp, however the two channels may not output the same exact signal, which may result in the two voice coils "fighting" each other (that would make your amp sound like ****)
    4.) wire the sub's voice coils in series and bridge two amp channels; this will present a single 4-ohm load to the amplifier. that amp can handle a 4-ohm load while in bridged mode so this is also safe for the amp, and since the voice coils are wired together they will receive the same exact signal.

    NOTE: that sub has a massive magnet that allows it to handle much more power than that amp is capable of providing. I'm not saying it won't sound good or it won't be loud, but a 1000w RMS subwoofer is overkill if you're only going to power it with a 330w RMS amplifier. I'm far beyond the mega-bass phase of my life; so I'm no longer "in the loop" when it comes to subs/amps so I will not attempt to recommend anything to you. I'm simple giving you some information so you can choose for yourself.

    ...if you do end up actually pushing 1000w RMS, then you should buy stock in dynamat as you'll end up buying their entire year's inventory to keep your car from vibrating into a thousand pieces (j/k )
    F150 Truckputer [1.0] (coming soon!)
    Fusion Carputer [2.0]
    Fusion Carputer [1.0]

  • #2
    Sound System Help

    Hello,

    I'm just wondering if this amp http://www.theloudest.co.uk/?section...product_id=104 will work with this sub http://www.theloudest.co.uk/?section...&product_id=85

    If not, would you recommend me a sub for that amp please?

    Thank you

    Comment


    • #3
      tha amp is a four channel how many subs do you want it WILL do a 2ch bridge but still thats if you want a stereo sub setup
      MY build...a walk thru, finally getting to it

      Comment


      • #4
        Well i'll be wiring 2 6x9s to the amp aswell, would that run fine?

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by FusionFanatic View Post
          will it work? yes... are they a match made in heaven? no...

          that amp can handle a 2-ohm stereo load or a 4-ohm bridged load. according to the specs, it will output a "clean" 170w (210w >1% THD) per channel RMS @4-ohms un-bridged. it will output a "clean" 330w (450w >1% THD) @2-ohms bridged.

          that sub is rated for 1000w RMS (the specs do not state the minimum power required). it is a dual voice coil sub, each coil is 2-ohms...

          there are 4 ways ways to wire that up, 2 will fry the amp, 2 will work, 1 way is best:
          1.) wire the sub's voice coils in parallel; this will present a single 1-ohm load to the amplifier. since that amp cannot handle a 1-ohm load in any configuration, this way will FRY THE AMP!!
          2.) bridge two amp channels and connect only 1 voice coil; this will present a single 2-ohm load to the amplifier. that amp can handle a 2-ohm load in stereo mode but not in bridged mode, so this way will also FRY THE AMP!!
          3.) wire the sub's voice coils independently to 1 amp channel each (leave the amp un-bridged): this will present a 2-ohm load to each un-bridges amp channel. this is safe for the amp, however the two channels may not output the same exact signal, which may result in the two voice coils "fighting" each other (that would make your amp sound like ****)
          4.) wire the sub's voice coils in series and bridge two amp channels; this will present a single 4-ohm load to the amplifier. that amp can handle a 4-ohm load while in bridged mode so this is also safe for the amp, and since the voice coils are wired together they will receive the same exact signal.

          NOTE: that sub has a massive magnet that allows it to handle much more power than that amp is capable of providing. I'm not saying it won't sound good or it won't be loud, but a 1000w RMS subwoofer is overkill if you're only going to power it with a 330w RMS amplifier. I'm far beyond the mega-bass phase of my life; so I'm no longer "in the loop" when it comes to subs/amps so I will not attempt to recommend anything to you. I'm simple giving you some information so you can choose for yourself.

          ...if you do end up actually pushing 1000w RMS, then you should buy stock in dynamat as you'll end up buying their entire year's inventory to keep your car from vibrating into a thousand pieces (j/k )
          Thanks for that mate, really helped me. I'm going to be getting another amp near 330watt RMS for the amp. Untill i get the 8,000 watt amp.

          Thank you

          Comment


          • #6
            Sorry for the double post, but 1 more thing.

            Will it run fine if the sub was lower RMS then the amp or does the amp after be lower then the sub?

            Comment


            • #7
              An amplifier's RMS output rating should be half of the sub's input rating.

              If your sub reads;

              180W RMS MAX, then your amp needs to be rated at 90W RMS

              If your sub reads;

              50-200W RMS MAX, then your amp needs to be rated at 100W RMS.

              If your amp's rating is rated for a 4 ohm load, and your sub is not a 4 ohm load, it will differ.

              This feels a bit like spoon-feeding to me.
              These aren't very advanced questions, they're the basis of amp/speaker connection.
              Do yourself a favour and do a bit more research, and it'll go a long way.

              Comment

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