No announcement yet.

New amp is blowing fuses

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • New amp is blowing fuses

    I just got a new Profile AP1040 amp today after 2 weeks of waiting for amazon to get it to me. I currently have an MA mono amp hooked up to my subs and its working fine. I disconnected the power from battery, hooked up my distribution block, connected the MA back up and when I plugged the ground into the Profile the fuses blew (2 x 30). I disconnected everything from the Profile, replaced fuses, and it still blew. The subs and MA amp are still working fine though. I disconnected the MA amp, replaced the cables from there to the profile and fuses again and they STILL blew. I opened up the Profile amp to see if anything was burnt and everything smells and looks normal, no burn marks or anything. I connected the ground to the amp then plugged in the power and it still blew with nothing connected either. I am pretty stumped, did I just get a defective amp? Pleeeeeease help, I've been waiting forever to install this amp and now it doesn't even work.

  • #2
    Originally posted by melonzman View Post
    .... I disconnected the power from battery, hooked up my distribution block, connected the MA back up and when I plugged the ground into the Profile the fuses blew (2 x 30)....
    Did you connect the ground and power cables to the amp before reconnecting at the battery?

    If you have a multimeter, disconnect all the cables to the new amp and see if there is a short between the power (+) terminal and the ground terminal on the amp.

    hope this helps.


    • #3
      Yea I had them both connected and when I attached the main fuse at my battery the fuses on the amp blew. Also I tried connecting the ground cable into the amp when the power was already plugged in and it blew also. I have a multimeter, but I'm not too sure on which setting I should use to test it.


      • #4
        You have a short circuit. You need to figure out if the short is in the cabling or the amplifier. My guess is that you have the power wires backwards to the Profile amp.

        You can check this using your multimeter. Use the multimeter in continuity mode (don't know how to use it? Watch this handy video). Most digital multimeters have a setting that emits a sound if you get continuity (which would read as zero or near zero ohms of resistance) so you can check wires without looking at the meter. Test your meter first by touching the probes of the multimeter together. On my meter, when you set it to test continuity, I get a "0L" reading when the probes are not touching and a .9 ohm reading when they do. It varies a bit, but never goes over 2.5 ohms.

        Put one probe on your distro block + side. Put the other probe on the wire you are plugging into your amp. You should get continuity. Tag that wire with a piece of tape and mark "+" on it so you don't mix it up.

        Do the same with your ground wire. One probe to ground, one to the ground wire you are running into your amp. Again, you should be getting continuity. That confirms that each wire is hooked up the way you think it is.

        If both are set properly, connect them to the battery, put your meter in voltage measuring mode, test that it is working properly by touching both terminals on your battery (should get 12 volts or more), and then put the positive probe on your meter to the + wire for the amp and the - probe onto the ground for the amp. You should see 12 volts or thereabouts.

        You know now that your wire harness is working and that you have not mixed up the wires.

        If you found no errors, test the amp to see if it has a short in it. Put one probe on B+ for the amp and the other to GND. If you get continuity (again, either zero or very low resistance), the short is inside the amplifier. If not, you are okay to connect the wires to the amp and try it out again.

        You're still not out of the woods even if that works. Before you hook up your other amp, do the same checks and make sure you aren't somehow mixing + with - in the wiring harnesses.

        And ALWAYS use a multimeter when connecting stuff. NEVER trust the wire colors or even looking at it with your eye. Always check and you'll never blow stuff.

        Plus, using a meter makes you look like you know what you're doing. Need to make sure there's no power in that light switch? Check it with your meter first! It may keep you from getting killed one day.
        Originally posted by ghettocruzer
        I was gung ho on building a PC [until] just recently. However, between my new phone having internet and GPS and all...and this kit...Im starting to have trouble justfiying it haha.
        Want to:
        -Find out about the new iBug iPad install?
        -Find out about carPC's in just 5 minutes? View the Car PC 101 video


        • #5
          +1 backward on the amp
          "In the beginners mind there are many possibilities, but in the experts mind there are few."- Shunryu Suzuki
          "Do it right or don't do it at all"

          [-------90%-] (New Car=New Build)


          • #6
            Wow thanks for the long winded response Bugbyte, definitely appreciate it. What I actually did is the next morning I hooked up a power cable straight to the battery positive terminal and a cable straight to the ground terminal and it didn't trip the fuses. Then I hooked it back up in the trunk and it worked perfectly fine. I'm guessing during the night the metal expanded / contracted or something bogus, because I haven't had any problems with it so far. I'm going to bookmark this page though, your post was very helpful.