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  • Volume potentiometer

    Hi,
    I want to create a simple analog volume knob for my carputer. Right now I'm connecting the computer directly to the amplifier but I want to put a potentiometer in-between them so I can easily adjust the volume. It will basically be connected to the RCAs coming from the computer and into the audio-in in the amp.

    I don't want to buy an equalizer since I don't need one and don't have any room to put it in.

    Do you know if I can use this thing for this idea? Do you know what th 'K' stands for?
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ALPS-732t-50KBX4...742.m153.l1262

    Thank you very much!
    My Car PC project
    Current status: Fabricating screen

  • #2
    i don't know what the k stands for, but i think you want something a little simpler.

    this would be more for repairing a home theater head unit where the knob "turns itself" when you adjust the volume from the remote control like some of the higher end Sony's and Pioneers did. Thats where the motorized part comes in, would be pretty complicated to utilize that in your car setup.

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    • #3
      Im using JL Audio CL-RLC line driver/remote volume. They work perfect for me, google it and see if it's what you're looking for.

      PS.. I use one to control volume gains to sub amp , and another to control gain to my tweeters. (active front stage).
      Sig, smig...

      Ford Flex Toshiba Excite 7.7 Install

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      • #4
        I picked up one from http://www.davidnavone.com/ a while back, but I can't seem to locate it on his site now.... It works great!

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        • #5
          Originally posted by barnyard View Post
          I picked up one from http://www.davidnavone.com/ a while back, but I can't seem to locate it on his site now.... It works great!
          http://www.davidnavone.com/cart.asp?14&pid=129
          My 2007 Yukon XL setup. http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...64-5000-a.html

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          • #6
            why dont you use sw control? its much simplier, and there is no risk for noise! you can find several knob option, like this, and others...
            "case": Skoda Superb Elegance 1.8T
            Asrock G41MH-GE, E2180 2GHz dualcore, 1024MB DDR2/800, Samsung F1 750GB/7200RPM/32MB, M4-ATX, Lilliput FA1011 HDMI touchscreen, ASUS Xonar DG PCI, homemade Quectel L10 USB GPS

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            • #7
              Originally posted by yaniv View Post
              Hi,
              I want to create a simple analog volume knob for my carputer. Right now I'm connecting the computer directly to the amplifier but I want to put a potentiometer in-between them so I can easily adjust the volume. It will basically be connected to the RCAs coming from the computer and into the audio-in in the amp.

              I don't want to buy an equalizer since I don't need one and don't have any room to put it in.

              Do you know if I can use this thing for this idea? Do you know what th 'K' stands for?
              http://cgi.ebay.com/ALPS-732t-50KBX4...742.m153.l1262

              Thank you very much!
              k stands for thousand... 50k as in the amount of resistance

              the thing that sucks about going with a passive pot is that you have to run your audio cables to the pot then to the amp. if your pc is in the trunk then thats a lot of wiring. if your pc is near the dash then your ok... if not i'd look into a digital pot that takes the pot out of the signal and will allow you to remotely mount it without addind long rca cable runs
              New System in progress:
              M10k
              Phaze TD1500 ~> Dynaudio MD130
              Phaze TD1500 ~> Seas g18rnx/p
              Zapco Ref 500.1 ~ 12" tc-9
              Behringer DCX2496 ~ Envision Electronics psu
              Transflective Xenarc

              My Car Pc Install
              My Boat Pc worklog

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              • #8
                Software control is not usable for me since the computer must first turn on for me to use it. If the audio is already too loud I'd have to blow my ears and only then lower the volume. Also, I already have that in my frontend so I don't need another one.

                About the JL Audio CL-RLC, it's very expensive considering all it does it control volume. I can get an equalizer roughly at the same price. Also it's only 2 channel and I'm looking for a 4 channel solution.

                The motorized part of the potentiometer is useless for me but I'm not going to use it anyway. These should be turnable by hand as well.

                I did consider I will have to to transfer some more wires in the car. There are a lot of them already so a couple more won't be a problem


                I am mainly concerned about the OHM values for these resistors. What would be enough for lowering a car amp's volume from MAX to ZERO?
                My Car PC project
                Current status: Fabricating screen

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by yaniv View Post
                  I did consider I will have to to transfer some more wires in the car. There are a lot of them already so a couple more won't be a problem
                  and you will win noise, noise, and some more noise

                  the MAX5440 IC is your best friend! only a gray code rotary encoder required with push function. you can ignore the LED-line and MODE button part of it (if balance function is not required). just connect the push button to MUTE, and the encoder's CHA, CHB. its an half-analog stuff, so the long wires might cause noise. an ADuM1400 or ISO7240 is recommended to fully isolate the button's long wires from the mixer IC...

                  im working now on a similar project: i have a crap opel factory headunit. its good to fill the huge hole, and has a big rotary encoder knob on its front. i will connect this to a microcontroller, decode the gray code to simple up/down signals, then connect it to my usb soundcard's vol up/down/mute buttons...
                  "case": Skoda Superb Elegance 1.8T
                  Asrock G41MH-GE, E2180 2GHz dualcore, 1024MB DDR2/800, Samsung F1 750GB/7200RPM/32MB, M4-ATX, Lilliput FA1011 HDMI touchscreen, ASUS Xonar DG PCI, homemade Quectel L10 USB GPS

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by FPeter View Post
                    the MAX5440 IC is your best friend! only a gray code rotary encoder required with push function.
                    I don't have much knowledge in electronics. I don't even know where to get this stuff.

                    Wouldn't it be exactly the same thing as having an analog volume control? I will still have to connect this to an analog wire no? Or are you talking about windows volume control (as I stated I don't want this).
                    My Car PC project
                    Current status: Fabricating screen

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Considering the noise issue now I understand why the JL Audio CL-RLC is a good choice. The wire coming to the dashboard is digital and doesn't hold the actual audio signal. I might spend a few more bucks on this solution.

                      Does anyone know of a 4 channel solution similar to the JL Audio CL-RLC?
                      My Car PC project
                      Current status: Fabricating screen

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        audiocontrol mvc is 6 channels
                        joshua tree log stepped attenuator is 4 (i could be convinced to sell my assembled one for $130)
                        New System in progress:
                        M10k
                        Phaze TD1500 ~> Dynaudio MD130
                        Phaze TD1500 ~> Seas g18rnx/p
                        Zapco Ref 500.1 ~ 12" tc-9
                        Behringer DCX2496 ~ Envision Electronics psu
                        Transflective Xenarc

                        My Car Pc Install
                        My Boat Pc worklog

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by scott_fx View Post
                          audiocontrol mvc is 6 channels
                          joshua tree log stepped attenuator is 4 (i could be convinced to sell my assembled one for $130)
                          That's too much for me but thanks for the offer
                          My Car PC project
                          Current status: Fabricating screen

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Is there anything other like the JL Audio CL-RLC? Even if it's 2 channel.
                            My Car PC project
                            Current status: Fabricating screen

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              what doesn't the jl audio cl-rlc do that you need to look at other options? i.e. why wont that solution work and what are you looking for?
                              New System in progress:
                              M10k
                              Phaze TD1500 ~> Dynaudio MD130
                              Phaze TD1500 ~> Seas g18rnx/p
                              Zapco Ref 500.1 ~ 12" tc-9
                              Behringer DCX2496 ~ Envision Electronics psu
                              Transflective Xenarc

                              My Car Pc Install
                              My Boat Pc worklog

                              Comment

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