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i want a sub... help plz

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  • i want a sub... help plz

    hi everybody anybody

    juz new to this, i want to get a sub for my car, but i dont kno much about it, looked ar some stuff on wiki but i didnt undertsand it...
    juz wondering wat i shld get, i gta 1000w amp in mind, wat sub should i b looking at.. how much w'z
    Does it have to b the same brand, can i keep my old head unit?

    thanx

  • #2
    Hera, this really isnt the forum for a question like this. We mainly deal with vehicle installed computers connected to car audio. I would recommend looking for a solely car audio forum.

    Regardless, you do NOT need a 1000 watt amp. Do it in baby steps! Look for a single 12" woofer and a 200-300 watt amplifier. Stop into electronic stores and chat with them. GOOGLE!
    Take my advice: Do not try to build a system that includes EVERY feature. Start with the basics, build it to a bug free state, and THEN add on.

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    • #3
      Believe me when I say I'm trying to be as nice as possible, but if you're seeking an intelligent answer, ask an intelligent question. Short-hand, anti-grammar will only annoy someone with the knowledge you seek. As for Will Albers reply... Can't say I disagree with any of it.

      But if you do indeed seek help with choosing a sub/amp combo, you're going to need to provide some basic info... Like what your high/mid situation is. What HU you're running. What your goal is (loud or quality). What kind of space you have for this. What your budget is. Any other equipment you already have. Etc.
      Play with it, 'til it's broke.

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      • #4
        A few notes-

        - Experts will recommend you build up the base of your system before even considering adding a sub. Get a good head unit, solid wiring, and quality components before you even think about getting a sub.

        - When you do get a sub, you'll need the sub, an amp, and a wiring kit. If you have a stock head unit, you'll need to make sure the amp has high-level inputs. If you have an aftermarket head unit, it most likely has low-level RCA-outs, which will be compatible with any amp.

        - When you wire up your amp, you'll run a single thick power wire directly from your battery straight to your amp. You'll run a single think ground wire from your amp to the chassis of your car, shorter is better.

        - Aside from the power and ground wires, you need to run audio cables and a power-on wire from the head unit to the amp. The audio cables carry the audio from the head unit to the amp for amplification. The power-on wire sends a +12V signal from the head unit to the amp to tell it to turn on.

        - It's important to run the power/power-on wires on the opposite side of the car from the audio wires. If you run them on the same side, you're likely to get whining and interference in your audio.

        - If you're running a single sub, you can get a "mono" amp that only has one channel, or a two-channel amp that's "bridgeable," which is when you wire both channels to one speaker.

        - Price doesn't always denote quality, but it's a good indicator. Stay away from Dual, Pyle, Lanzar, etc. - they're typically crap.

        - A single good 10" sub is plenty of bass inside the car. No one actually neeeds dual 12s, but if you want to make sure the whole block can hear your music, then by all means spend the money.

        My system -
        - JVC CD/mp3 player
        - 10" Pioneer Champion series 2 ohm dual voice coil sub
        - Infinity 6x8" components
        - Profile AP1040 amp

        It's a great system on a budget - the amp is a four channel amp that puts out 125W RMS at 2 ohms to each of the Infinity components and 125W at 2 ohms to each coil in my dual voice coil sub.

        I bought everything off of the internet much cheaper than I could find it in stores - the amp was $100, the sub was $60, the head unit came with the car, and the components were $80.

        The mids and highs are loud enough to hurt my ears without distortion and the bass is enough for a good back massage in the car.

        Keep in mind that the only watts that actually matter are "RMS" watts. Amps will be advertised at 1000W or whatever, but look at the spec sheet - they'll often put out only 100W RMS per channel or something like that.
        1999 SVT Contour
        3.0

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