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need amp turn on delay, speakers pop

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  • need amp turn on delay, speakers pop

    okay, I upgraded my opus 150psu for the newer 180w psu which has the amp turn-on blue/white wire that hooks to the amps remote input. the problem is that the opus180 psu remote wire is not a 12v wire, so the amp does not see any current when booting up which cause the amp to stay off. the fun thing is that only one of the amps will turn on(momo sub amp), but no the 4 ch amp that goes to the rear and front speakers. These amp are arc audio foose series FD-4150(4ch amp 400watt) and FD-1200( mono 1,100 watt). I called arc audio to see what current or voltage the amp need to see to come on they told me very little( 200milamps). But I told them that the mono amp would come on without any problem, the 4ch would stay off. He then said the the mono amp is very sensitive to any change. But the 4ch less sensitive. so then I called opus about the issue of the amp not turning on. they told me that the remote wire from the psu is not powered, like a double ground just used for signal to turn on devices. it was very hard to understand the guy in tech support. So Ive tired the relay to power the amp to see 12v, didnt work, tried the double ground way with the relay the guy told me, amp still wouldnt come on. So I just wired to the acc which works, but with a big pop which will damage my speakers. So I need a amp delay device that you can adjust the time to turn on the amp. Ive seen products out there, but they are only for a few seconds, need something much longer.
    https://www.facebook.com/hinnantdesign1

  • #2
    first thing that came to my mind was fusion brain...but there may be other (possibly simpler) solutions out there

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    • #3
      I have a fusion brain that I use to use with my accord steering wheel control. I dont need to do all that programming stuff to turn on an amp. something simple.
      https://www.facebook.com/hinnantdesign1

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      • #4
        I make timers for that kind of thing, but I'm thinking all you need is a small 5V relay if it's output is 5V. Connect the coil to the output and ground, then the contacts to 12V and the amp remote wire. You should really get a cheap DMM so you can be positive though.

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        • #5
          I'm thinking a relay should work, too. Connect the replay to your acc or any other 12V and trigger it with the output of the Opus.

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          • #6
            It may not be a good idea to attempt to sink a relay with a 5V source because it may feed 12V back to the 5V rail. It's triggering one of the amps so that means it has a positive output. It could even be 12V 20mA and the 2 amps are drawing 50mA each. Amp remotes are supposed to have a 50mA max, but mine for example use 12mA and 8mA so they're usually much lower. That's why it would be better to just know, or they could have explained it in the manual.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Curiosity View Post
              It may not be a good idea to attempt to sink a relay with a 5V source because it may feed 12V back to the 5V rail. It's triggering one of the amps so that means it has a positive output. It could even be 12V 20mA and the 2 amps are drawing 50mA each. Amp remotes are supposed to have a 50mA max, but mine for example use 12mA and 8mA so they're usually much lower. That's why it would be better to just know, or they could have explained it in the manual.
              even when I hook up just one that does not turn on by it self, still will not turn on. the guy from opus said the remote wire has no current. But im not understanding why it turns on my sub amp but not my 4ch amp.
              https://www.facebook.com/hinnantdesign1

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              • #8
                Yeah, that is really strange that it triggers the amp. The 180W one shows a diagram of RMT to a switch connected to +BATT internally. That would be what you'd expect. Well if you can't find anything else, my TMR-4 is guaranteed to do what you want. shameless plug.

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                • #9
                  Well, I tried to find some info on the opus 180w to help you out with that remote wire, but they don't seem to have much info on their site for it. Regardless, you can, instead of the delay, use a windows service to turn the amp on from a serial port. That way it will turn on when windows is booted up, and off before it shuts down.

                  Check here for some howtos: http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/soft...r-powerup.html
                  2000 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer - Bi-Fuel Gasoline/CNG
                  Intel D945GCLF2 w/512MB RAM, CL Audigy w/KxProject, M2-ATX, Lilliput EBY701

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                  • #10
                    Possible quick and dirty solution:

                    Have you tried to run the remote from one of the yellow +12vdc wires on the 4 pin molex connector (intended for an optical or disk drive) on the opus? The amps wont sense a remote signal until after the opus turns on and might fix your pop as well.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Sponge View Post
                      Possible quick and dirty solution:

                      Have you tried to run the remote from one of the yellow +12vdc wires on the 4 pin molex connector (intended for an optical or disk drive) on the opus? The amps wont sense a remote signal until after the opus turns on and might fix your pop as well.
                      tried that, problem is that the amp will not turn off until the carputer shuts down which causes a big pop sound.
                      https://www.facebook.com/hinnantdesign1

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                      • #12
                        this might be what you are looking for:
                        http://store.mp3car.com/Micro_Shutdo..._p/pwr-007.htm

                        while it is really for turning the computer on/off, you might be able to use it to turn on the amps after the computer is booted up.

                        one of the features is that it senses wheather the computer is turned on, this might cause problems keeping the amps turned on. but no one knows until it is tried.

                        if you would like to build a circuit, there is always a time delay circuit:


                        Iíve selected the 555 timer due to following reasons.

                        1. Timing from microseconds through hours.
                        2. Ability to operate from wide range of supply voltages.
                        3. High temperature stability.
                        4. Easily Available.
                        5. Its triggering circuit is quite sensitive.

                        This is basically a monostable. The external timing capacitor C2 is held initially discharged by the timer. The circuit triggers upon receiving a pulse to its pin 2 when the level reaches 1/3 Vcc. Once triggered., the circuit will remain in that state until the set time is elapsed or power to the circuit cuts off. The delayed period in seconds is 1.1 C2.R1 where R1 is in megohms and C2 is in microfarads. In practice, R1 should not exceed 20 M. If you use an electrolytic capacitor for C2, select a unit for low leakage. The time delay may have to be adjusted by varying R1 to compensate for the wide tolerance of electrolytics.


                        from this page, 4th item down.
                        http://www.electronics-lab.com/proje...042/index.html
                        My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
                        "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


                        next project? subaru brz
                        carpc undecided

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                        • #13
                          This is what I use:

                          http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/soft...r-powerup.html

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                          • #14
                            When I went to my friends audio shop today, he told me I should use a DEI 528t pluse timer relay module. adjustment from 1sec- 90sec
                            https://www.directedstore.com/cgi-bi...ategory%3DA_SE
                            https://www.facebook.com/hinnantdesign1

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                            • #15
                              Damn! I need to raise my prices. LOL The input on that looks like it takes a negative pulse like from an alarm or door switch, and then stays on for the programmed time (1-90 seconds) then turns off. Might not be good for this application.

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