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Kenwood amplifier power light blinks every second, no sound from sub.

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  • Kenwood amplifier power light blinks every second, no sound from sub.

    I have a Kenwood KAC-9104D amplifier hooked up to my 12" Lanzar MaxP124D (don't give me crap about my sub, I've heard enough already...). I use 4 gauge wiring to hook it all up. The power wire has a 60 amp fuse in it, while the amplifier has two 30 amp fuses in it.

    The amp is mono that can safely handle a 1 ohm load. The sub is a dual voice coil and it natively runs at 4 ohms, so I hooked it up in parallel to run at 2 ohms (so the amp is ok with the 2 ohm load).

    The problem is that when I turn on the car the amp turns on and I'm getting the power lights on and everything, but when music starts to play, the power light blinks every 1 or 2 seconds and makes a popping sound. And I'm not getting any power to the sub (I just don't think there's enough time for the amp to get any power to the sub before it blinks again). I used a volt-meter to measure all connections and fuses. The fuse on the power wire is getting 13.5ish volts, the power and ground on the amp are getting the same. When I put the positive on the ground and negative on the remote-on, I get about 12 volts. But when I put the positive on the power/battery wire and the negative on the remote-on I'm only getting about 1 volt. It should be getting 12ish, right?

    I checked all fuses and the ground looks fine. Remote-on looks ok in the head unit. So I really don't know what the problem is unless my amp is just fried. I don't see how that's possible because I just bought it about a month ago. I used to have 8 gauge wiring and worked fine. But it used a 30 amp fuse in the power wire and it would always blow the fuse when I put the volume past 17 (which is about as high as I would want it anyway). So I switched to 4 gauge, and now I'm getting this problem. Anyone have any ideas?

  • #2
    try disconnecting the sub from the amp, and then check to see if the amp turns on and stays on.

    also, you have got a good start trouble shooting, but are looking at the terminals wrong-the 12 volt in, and remote line should have no difference(though a slight difference is ok) in the power readings-- both should be recieving at least 12 volts(+/-3 volts), the only difference is that the remote line is a car controlled line to turn the amp on and off. the 12 volt line should be a constantly powered line directly off the battery.

    the other issue you could have is that the amp is connected to a faulty ground. try either moving the ground, or cleaning the area/bolt that the ground cable is connected to. to test this, measure the voltage difference between the ground post on the amp, and different ground points near the amp-- there should not be any more than +1-2 volt deviation from any point(this would be placing the +lead on the ground on the amp, and testing different points with the -lead.)
    My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
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    • #3
      Well what does it mean when I only get a reading of 1 volt when I put the +lead on the 12volt terminal and the -lead on the remote terminal? But if I put the +lead on the 12volt terminal and the -lead on the ground terminal, I get 12-13 volts.

      And thanks, I'll try other parts of the car. And I'll also try sanding out more of the paint on the ground spot I have now, although there's almost no paint anyway...

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      • #4
        [QUOTE=maddawg579;1334755]Well what does it mean when I only get a reading of 1 volt when I put the +lead on the 12volt terminal and the -lead on the remote terminal? But if I put the +lead on the 12volt terminal and the -lead on the ground terminal, I get 12-13 volts.

        it means that there is a voltage difference because of the resistance of the switching circuit, and possibly resisitance in the remote wire-- but it is nothing to worry about.

        if you still feel that it is a serious concern, use a small wire jumper to go from the 12volt to the remote terminal for testing to see if the remote wire has current limiting issues.
        My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
        "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


        next project? subaru brz
        carpc undecided

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        • #5
          It means that the difference between your POWER line and your REMOTE line is 1v. That's good. It means that if your power is 13v, your remote is 12v. What you want to check is always in relation to ground. Compare the power to the ground, then the remote to the ground. One will be 13.5 like you said, one will be 12.5ish according to your numbers.

          Check your grounds. Put the meter in resistance mode and place one side on a good grounding point in your vehicle. Put the other probe onto the negative terminal of your amplifier, where you attached your wire to. If there's anything significant there (>.5) then let us know.
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          • #6
            Originally posted by colin View Post
            It means that the difference between your POWER line and your REMOTE line is 1v. That's good. It means that if your power is 13v, your remote is 12v. What you want to check is always in relation to ground. Compare the power to the ground, then the remote to the ground. One will be 13.5 like you said, one will be 12.5ish according to your numbers.

            Check your grounds. Put the meter in resistance mode and place one side on a good grounding point in your vehicle. Put the other probe onto the negative terminal of your amplifier, where you attached your wire to. If there's anything significant there (>.5) then let us know.
            Ok so I checked everything in relation to the ground. There was about a 1 volt difference from the remote/ground (12.75 volts) and the power/ground (13.8 volts), so no surprise there. I checked different ground points and the one I currently use, no difference. Every spot gets about 14 volts.

            Is there some kind of shortage happening inside the amplifier itself? If that's the case then I would need to take it into a car audio place. That's too much for me to handle.

            Also, I posted this question on Yahoo Answers, and one guy said that my remote wire might be attached to the wrong wire on the head unit. He said to make sure my remote wire is not connected to the power antenna lead, and if it is, then to change it. How would I know if it is connected to that and what wire would I change it to?

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            • #7
              are you using a headunit or a car computer? and where is the remote wire connected on the back of the stereo?
              My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
              "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


              next project? subaru brz
              carpc undecided

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              • #8
                Originally posted by soundman98 View Post
                are you using a headunit or a car computer? and where is the remote wire connected on the back of the stereo?
                Headunit. And to tell you the truth, I'm not too sure. My buddy cut the wire in the back of the headunit for me when I first installed everything a few months ago. The wire is blue and white. That's about as much as I can tell you. I'll ask him today if he remembers what wire he used.

                EDIT: He just told me it was the remote control wire. So I don't think it was the wrong one.

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                • #9
                  there used to be alot of problems in the past with people connecting their new amp to the power antenna lead, and the sub would only work while on the radio, if they switched to any other srouce, it stopped.

                  it does not sound like this is the case with your issue, and really sounds like either a faulty sub(if it is causing the fault, diconnecting it, and resetting the amp will allow tha amp to turn on.), or amp(any trouble shooting you do will not help), or, maybe both.
                  My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
                  "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


                  next project? subaru brz
                  carpc undecided

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